Hey, loved the bike, Wayne! Thanks much!!!

But it still ain't a Harley!!!

 

Beastrider.
I guess I should have been more specific. Yes, it's a Japanese 4 banger, a 1984 Nighthawk to be specific (CB700SC); and it has 40k miles on it. It's already sprouted a couple of small seal leaks, although it took about 13 years to do it so I can't complain.

I've been considering changing to a synth because the oil goes in 20w-50 and comes out looking like dirty water, and that's after only 2000 miles. I've tried synthetic blends and no difference.

You say it won't affect the wet clutches but how will affect the seals? What kind of experience have you had with these kinds of issues?

 

Hey beastmaster, thanks for the motorcyle oil link, good stuff.
Terry

 

I've got a friend who is running Amsoil in his 1976 Honda Goldwing. He has over 90,000 miles and no leaks. Before that he ran mobil 1. His bike was bought used and runs great!

I would say you should have no problem. Though I would use a motorycle specific oil that is compatible with wet clutches.

 

Thank gawd for that!

 

I have to agree with mdparks. Millions of miles have been put on Gold Wings with synthetics, with Mobil 1 being the most often used. I just don't think you can go wrong with a syn for your bike.

The synthetic should stand up better to the long chain breakdown caused by the transmission gears. And for multi weights, synthetics need less of an additive package to achieve a wide winter/summer rating.

For your bike, I'd opt for a 20W/50, or maybe a 10W40.

Experience: I've owned a Honda 600 VLX, an old Kawa 650, a Triumph, and most recently a Valk. the VLX (6000 miles) and the Valk (26,000 miles) most had syn in them, in the case of the Valk Exxon 5W 50.

I've stayed on top of the oil issue for a long time. In the early days of synthetics, seals could be a problem because of the base stocks used, but that is no longer the case. YMMV.

 

IMHO the only thing lost is an extra $10 or $15 of your money!!

 

Ok guys, thanks. I'll try it at the next change; can I (or should I) change the interval also?

 

Heya STX/98 you can consider that good money spent on a warm fuzzy feeling it gives me, kinda like that radar detector gives to you LOL!!

 

<grin> Good point..... I'm just about talked in to trying this 'synthetic stuff' you smooth talkers....

 

Hey, I'm sold. Seriously. I'm going to switch my 99 F150 and my wifes 01 Sport Trac, AND, my 1970 Cutlass over to synthetic. No joke. But I was going to put a Bell remote radar detector in the F150. Are you suggesting the Bell would not work suitably for police radar? No jokes. For oil, I'm going to get three cases of Mobil one and three K&N oil filters. But, what about the Bell remote detector? I know it's off the thread, don't want to tread, but I need to know what's said. Oh gosh, is that a rap tune in the making??? (i'm 41, give me break here)

 

I put Valvoline synthetic transmission fluid in my 1999 F-150 4.6. I used Valvoline because it was the only sythetic fluid I could find that met the Mercon V specification.

I read that the synthetic fluid can reduce your transmissions operating temperature by up to 50 degrees. Since I tow a 4000# travel trailer I felt that I needed the extra protection.

Your thoughts?

 

Yes synthetic in the trans can lower operating temps 20-50 degrees, this is only during heavy operation like towing and city driving. You should have normal temps during normal driving.

Story. Buddy of mine full time RVer. Taking his RV over Donner Pass in CA. Max temp his transmission saw was 180 degree. He said before he switched 220 was the norm for mountain passes, even higher during the summer.

Heat kills the transmission and the fluid. If you keep it cool it will last.