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Okay - do this. With the vacuum line connected to the FPR, start it and let it idle. Monitor the fuel pressure. Then disconnect the vacuum from the FPR, the pressure should rise by at least 5 psi. If it doesn't, replace the FPR.
Then the FPR is good. Sick fuel pump or partial blockage between the pump and fuel rail.
If the pressure drops below specs with the vacuum line off and plugged, that confirms this.
That is my thinking. I can drive it a bit to burn some fuel. I might know someone that might let me use a drive on lift if I ask real nice. Might cost me a favor or ten though...
I appreciate that video. But I just did this about 2 weeks ago...
Managed to not drop the tank all the way. The fuel connections were different than all the videos...
That threw me for quite the loop. I was surprised to see the above video had the same connectors as mine!
So I'm questioning replacing the entire assembly, it is under warranty, or spend the extra money to upgrade from the budget pump, $85. Motorcraft pumps are pricey. Or. Maybe get a Holley or Walbro bare pump and fit it to the assembly. Had I kept the original, that might have made my decision easier. But it was frozen. No amount of hammering got it to spin again. And no. It didn't look like the starter afterwards. Lost my core charge on that. I will also change the fuel filter again regardless.
I'm really wondering if I had the right O ring seal for my thermostat housing. That leaking just ever so much, bugs me a LOT!
Finally tonight. Got my USB OBD2 adapter today, connected to my laptop no issue. Connected to Forscan and the truck perfectly. Did the full system backup, but really, for 2002, there aren't any variables. Then ran the key on engine off tests, key on engine running and so on. Only DTC was P1000... But considering I'm probably still under 100 key cycles, I expect that to go away someday. I am very impressed, for a free program, and an inexpensive adapter, this is a very powerful tool. After I resolve my coolant issue, I want to set the gauge sets for datalogging...
I do look forward to running this on my son's 2013 ExCab. It is a former Highway Patrol truck... And for my former mechanic friend, on his 08 Supercrew.
Sanity check. A fuel pump, puts out XX PSI regardless. The fuel pressure regulators in our 10th generation trucks uses a vacuum reference to vary the return of fuel to the tank. (I'm quite familiar with boosted applications that raise the pressure with a vac/boost reference...) If the FPR performs properly with or without vacuum reference, there is no other part in the system changing the fuel pressure? Am I correct? A failing fuel pump relay would only shut off the pump.
I hate the idea of dropping the tank, swapping pumps, again. And having the same situation. But, if the pump can't keep up with the load, the pump must be bad. I'm diving into circular thinking, and that is never a good idea. Second guessing the process that is pretty clear. With the vacuum reference pulled, no fuel came out of the vacuum connection. So the diaphragm is likely ok. Having full pump pressure without that vacuum reference, means again, the diaphragm and it's spring are ok.
I changed the thermostat housing O ring, and added some make a gasket. So far, no leaks. Yea... I probably need a cooling system flush before long, there is rust coloring to my new coolant... But that will be later.
I have the replacement pump in hand, need to burn through some more fuel first, lighten the tank. No word from my friend of a friend with a drive on lift...
I'm a shadetree mechanic sooo. Anyway, I've watched videos on diagnosing fuel pressure problems and they pinched off the return line to see if the pressure went up. Does your truck have a flexible hose in the return line that you can pinch off? I watched another video on a Jeep Cherokee where there was a hose on the pump inside the tank that came off and it was losing fuel back into the tank. You could hear the fuel being lost to the tank. That problem was caused by using the wrong hose material. Fuel line hose won't survive if it submerged in gasoline. It takes a high dollar hose for that application.
If that pump sucked up some of that crap I wouldn't trust it or the filter. Is that tank metal or plastic? I aasume you have removed the tank completely.
If that pump sucked up some of that crap I wouldn't trust it or the filter. Is that tank metal or plastic? I aasume you have removed the tank completely.
New tanks are only about $130 at Rock Auto.
Filter and pump will both be changed. New steel tank will be here tomorrow. I love Rock Auto, but they can't get here tomorrow. New tank equals Peace of mind.
Yes, that pump is only 2 weeks old. As soon as I saw that sock filter, I dropped the tank. Since the truck sat 7 years, all the fuel evaporated. I put in new fuel, added Seafoam fuel system cleaner then added Techron. So that broke up all that debris.
New tank, New pump and filter. This should run like a scalded skunk once again. No more fuel starvation...
Waiting on my new tank. Watching YouTube garage videos... Bad ideas... But then I wandered out to the garage, started measuring a few things. In the coming weeks I think I'm going to "reimagine" my 13 year old shelving and bench layout. And do a couple things I should have done when I built them in the first place. Best part, it isn't going to cost much for the biggest part of the change.
Really need to stop watching YouTube when waiting on things...
MUCH BETTER! Now this is how it's supposed to run.
And I need tires. Wal-Mart's tire centers are closed. But they had some tires on clearance. $54 for tires. Normally $113 each. Yes. Cheap to begin with. But they will get me down the road for a while... Dextero DHT2.
Truck originally came with 255/70-16 tires. I've been running 265/75-16 because I got them cheap, but used. So 245/75-16 is a good compromise for my wallet. And at least they were LT series. Walmart had a couple sets of P265/75-16 tires. Which really, might be ok. But these will do better.