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  #16  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 97stepside4.6
just a heads up i got ancy and went out and tinkered with the truck.

first i dropped a little CLR into the heater core and let sit for about 30 min and ran a garden hose to it and ran lots of water through both ends hooked it back up and low and behold i HAVE HEAT HOTTTT HEAT yay so i let it run with resevior cap off and its stiff got bubbles coming up when the thermostat closes its got a small pause between burps but doesnt stop their is not a single visible leak but i am getting a little smoke out tailpipe when startup but not every time

and the thermostat is a 195
Good Job, -cheater

But hey, it worked right. Beats changing one out that for sure. Only thing, -how were you able to distribute the CLR thru the entire core to activate evenly throughout ? If you were able to do that, it's a great fix. If you just made a hole, -not sure how long it last.(?)

Non the less, good deal, I'll remember this one. congrats.
 
  #17  
Old 04-29-2012, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 97stepside4.6
If I put the T on how should I purge the air I assume u are taking about a T with a valve should I attatch a 12" rubber Hoseto the middle of the T and hold it upright while the engine is running to purge the air I'm sure I sound confusing
No, your getting the idea. Yea, they do that with Expeditions and Navigators factory. The T is already there in those models. At times you need to create an air gap like a dishwasher set up lol. - Just to bleed out a stubborn system.

Alll that most do and at first is pull the HC line and crack it like you have do at times w/diesel injectors once run dry of fuel.

These systems can be tough to bleed. The worse off the HC is, the harder they are to bleed.

I've got the procedures/TSB's posted up on this site, - if you can't locate them and need them, let e know
 

Last edited by jbrew; 04-29-2012 at 06:38 PM.
  #18  
Old 04-29-2012, 09:16 PM
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If this was my truck I would get a hydrocarbon test performed or rent the kit from a auto parts store. When you say the big burps of bubbles are only when the t-stat is closed I suspect its because the engine is still cold. When a head gasket blows it will many times leak the worse when the engine is still cold, as the engine heats up things tighten up enough to seal the gasket leak enough to lessen or prevent hot gases from entering the coolant system. I may be wrong but I would explore the head gasket issue. If it's a bad gasket and its leaking into a cyl that can result in a hydrolock which could severly damage the engine. You say the radiator looks newer and it probably is because the previous owner thought it was the radiator causing the problem and discovered that it was not the issue.....This just sounds like a head gasket concern to me. good luck.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 04-29-2012 at 09:23 PM.
  #19  
Old 04-29-2012, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
If this was my truck I would get a hydrocarbon test performed or rent the kit from a auto parts store. When you say the big burps of bubbles are only when the t-stat is closed I suspect its because the engine is still cold. When a head gasket blows it will many times leak the worse when the engine is still cold, as the engine heats up things tighten up enough to seal the gasket leak enough to lessen or prevent hot gases from entering the coolant system. I may be wrong but I would explore the head gasket issue. If it's a bad gasket and its leaking into a cyl that can result in a hydrolock which could severly damage the engine. You say the radiator looks newer and it probably is because the previous owner thought it was the radiator causing the problem and discovered that it was not the issue.....This just sounds like a head gasket concern to me. good luck.
How you been DT? I was thinking the same and it wouldn't hurt to check it out. But, with a head gasket leak, seems like you would get a false boil, at least if it's bad enough. Not sure if the heads get hot enough to expand that much to make that difference, then again they might, - just my thought on it. Unless your thinking the gasket itself is closing up. (?)

The fact that the large bubble came when the HC was totally plugged. Then came again after the bypass (no way to bleed out) and now is nonexistent, since he has temp fixed the core problem, re-connected correctly, flowing thru the core as it should, giving the system the ability to once again bleed out.

It's not blowing bubbles currently, -@ temp or cold. That's what sold me anyway.

 
  #20  
Old 04-29-2012, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 97stepside4.6
and the thermostat is a 195
Well, that's better than a 187, I guess. Those are the worst. The 192/194 Motorcraft has been the best for these engines IMO. Never heard of a 195, but, okay, learned something new.

The more you work on these engines the more you realize the Motorcraft service parts work longer and some, much better than the knockoffs. Specially applies to the PCV valves. Others just don't make the cut, - but they're allowed for sale. That's a crime lol.
 
  #21  
Old 04-29-2012, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
If this was my truck I would get a hydrocarbon test performed or rent the kit from a auto parts store. When you say the big burps of bubbles are only when the t-stat is closed I suspect its because the engine is still cold. When a head gasket blows it will many times leak the worse when the engine is still cold, as the engine heats up things tighten up enough to seal the gasket leak enough to lessen or prevent hot gases from entering the coolant system. I may be wrong but I would explore the head gasket issue. If it's a bad gasket and its leaking into a cyl that can result in a hydrolock which could severly damage the engine. You say the radiator looks newer and it probably is because the previous owner thought it was the radiator causing the problem and discovered that it was not the issue.....This just sounds like a head gasket concern to me. good luck.

Could be... maybe hydrocarbon deposits are what gummed up his heater core in the first place.
 
  #22  
Old 04-30-2012, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
How you been DT? I was thinking the same and it wouldn't hurt to check it out. But, with a head gasket leak, seems like you would get a false boil, at least if it's bad enough. Not sure if the heads get hot enough to expand that much to make that difference, then again they might, - just my thought on it. Unless your thinking the gasket itself is closing up. (?)

The fact that the large bubble came when the HC was totally plugged. Then came again after the bypass (no way to bleed out) and now is nonexistent, since he has temp fixed the core problem, re-connected correctly, flowing thru the core as it should, giving the system the ability to once again bleed out.

It's not blowing bubbles currently, -@ temp or cold. That's what sold me anyway.


I'm doing fine jbrew hope the same with you. Ya I'm just thinking I would eliminate the blown head gasket possibility first. I may be wrong but when I read his post #15 it sounds to me like he is still getting bubbles when the t-stat closes? I'm not doubting that you are right about this brew (you usually are) I would just personally eliminate that gasket concern first. Toyz that was kinda my thought was that a large bubble of hot combustion gases stopped in the heater core and air locked the heat system preventing any coolant movement. Just my thoughts. jbrew I'm keeping an eye on you here I'll let you know if your getting too rowdy with these guys..lol.. take care my friend.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 04-30-2012 at 03:52 PM.
  #23  
Old 04-30-2012, 09:53 PM
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Okay

If it's still belching cold like that, - before temp. That puts a hole in my theory. I thought it quit doing that ?

Can't really get rowdy with you in the picture. Your to damn close, you'll come after me. Yikes!
 



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