99 5.4 V8 Questions

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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 06:40 PM
  #46  
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Coolant drains from the drivers side block plug and T-valve, -passenger side bottom of the radiator.

Do you have an impact gun ? You most likely will need one for the block plug.

Yea, you don't remove the heater core lines until you have every thing draining. Remove the expansion tank cap or degass bottle cap first.

Then remove the heater core lines @ clamped ends to drain the top half. No big deal, your going to get residual coolant spewing from those lines until it's good and drained. I would blow out the heater core once most the coolant is out. That will keep it from periodically leaking, - or you could plug the lines temporarily. How ever you want to do it.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 06:44 PM
  #47  
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Rookie mistake on my behalf, but it's a learning experience. I sadly have no air tools

I got underneath it but didn't see any plugs up front.

I only found 1 clamped end for the heater core, where's the other one that I'm missing?

I think I'm done for tonight honestly, getting pretty tired lol and don't want to screw anything else up.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #48  
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https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ntifreeze.html

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...rain-plug.html

Found those links and found a big bucket, hopefully it will be enough.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 07:11 PM
  #49  
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What the hell is the white stuff all over the plugs? Nasty. If it were me, Id drain the coolant like you are, have the whole throttle body, elbow and intake plenum off. Peel the wire harness back after you have unclipped everything and zip tie it out of the way on both sides. Zip tie the fuel rail up out of the way as well. Same with the hoses or anything else in the way. That is just the dirtiest looking thing I have seen. Bunch of nastiness. Then spend the next few days with 5 boxes of rags and 10 bottles of degreaser along with some brake cleaner/carb-intake cleaner and clean the crap out of the valley, head surface where it mates to the intake, valve covers, hoses, anything that looks dirty. Clean the intake plenum, elbow and throttle body inside and out. IAC, egr system.. all of it. The trick is not to spray the cleaners, but rather to put them on the rag and wipe everything. Want to make sure once the plenum is off that nothing makes it down into the runners or into the cylinders whichever may have valves open. Then reassemble with all fresh gaskets cop's and plugs. Speaking of, I would get a baby bottle cleaner, leave the plugs in and scrub the crap out of the plug wells. Then suck it out with a home made vacuum attachment that fits in there. A quick blast of air to make sure there is no debris left and then change the plugs. The reward in the end is well worth it. Just having a clean engine to work on and knowing all the parts are clean and fresh. Clean plenum and TB make a big difference. Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 07:16 PM
  #50  
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There you go, yea I haven't seen user temp1 in awhile. His and Quintins posts helped me allot, before I even joined this site lol. Good stuff.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2011 | 07:22 PM
  #51  
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Wish I were back in the states. I would be able to help you out. I have PI intake off a 4.6 and 5.4 that I am not gonna be using. But That won't be till end of May beggining of June. But I agree with everyone else. Getting that good and clean is gonna make a world of difference.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 02:33 PM
  #52  
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Happy Easter to all of you!

I drained the front part on the pass side. That was easy, but the hose on the drivers side I can not find. 99 4x4 5.4 V8. I see my oil & transmission drain plugs. I see the knuckle for the drive shaft, however I'm not finding that hex screw to take it out.

Any other location this thing could be hiding?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 02:45 PM
  #53  
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Should be just below the freeze plug near the back I believe. To the right of the engine mount.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 03:18 PM
  #54  
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Looking at those links I posted, in the photos where it shows the large circle, I'm assuming thats the freeze plug. I found something similar to that size, that's round. It's rubber though.Nothing was next to it. I'll take some photos in a few minutes.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #55  
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Yea, it's there, below the freeze plug in the block/ drivers side. Those links you posted provide great pics of it.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #56  
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AH HA! I think I found it. By the photos it's a bit deceiving as I thought it was going to be flat right there in front of me, instead I think this is it.

Also see what I found while by my drivers side tire?


I can see what you mean with an impact wrench, if that's the piece, it's going to be fun getting out....
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #57  
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Yea, actually, I don't have a small enough impact to sneak in there. My Ingersol air ratchet won't budge it lol. If you have the correct size hex and a little cheater bar, you might get lucky lol.

What I have to do is pull the wheel and the inner wheel well, use one or two impact swivels and a long *** extension for my 1/2" Impact gun. It zips it right out of there like nothin lol.

That might sound like allot, but I can pull the wheel inner fender and the plug in about 5 minutes time.
______________________________________

Broken Link"

Your link snapped, -that's common. Replacement link aren't to bad in price. I would only get replacements @ Napa or Dealership on that part. Some after market links aren't the greatest and don't fit perfectly. Places like O'Riely's,Murrays or Auto zone might sell knock offs, - I guess you could say, but other Auto supplies such as Carquest, Naps and dealerships you'll get a better replacement, - usually "Moog" part, which is what you want. I would do both sides @ light torque. If you don't know the torque #'s just ask, but they should say on the part or in any service manual.
_________________________________________________

What is that, your backing plate maybe ? Brakes ? Yea, they rust out. You can get those as well. Not sure if that one needs replaced yet, - hard to see. I would go ahead and do it, easy job.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #58  
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The other side looks fine, but I agree I'll replace both. I like Napa, always have, so I'll likely go there.

I'll tell yea, I'm burned out from that damn nut. There's no way in hell that's coming out by hand. Of course there's no room to play down there. I don't have a hex key to cut and use a socket either.

I must ask just to ask, does that have to come out? Or can I proceed since I drained the raid coolant from the pass side? I don't mean to sound lazy, but this is just sucking up a ton of time.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2011 | 12:44 AM
  #59  
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Draining the right side and the radiator will get about 3/4 of the coolant out - that should be plenty. I don't even drain the block - just the radiator.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2011 | 06:59 AM
  #60  
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Perfect, thank you! Onward and upward!
 
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