99 5.4 V8 Questions

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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 02:46 AM
  #226  
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Yea , I bet you are, - those manifrucks can be a Mother to work on, -you kept at it tho lol. By know means is it an easy job first time around. That's cool, good job man

So what are yuh gonna break next ? That was fun

 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 06:50 AM
  #227  
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ha! No idea really right now, I haven't been able to drive it since I bought it.

I don't like how it hesitates and shakes a little when I put the AC on then the RPMs drop. I want to return it to stock air intake too.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by FF Titus
ha! No idea really right now, I haven't been able to drive it since I bought it.

I don't like how it hesitates and shakes a little when I put the AC on then the RPMs drop. I want to return it to stock air intake too.
After you reset the KAM (KeepAliveMemory) from a disconnect, it may help running the AC for a bit stationary after first start.

Also, check/inspect the PCV system thoroughly, -the entire line from front to back.
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Also, check the vac harness. I pull the entire harness from the vehicle and bench test the lines. Because they don't necessarily have to leak to cause a problem, - the plastic lines can get forced to far into a elbow (90 degree elbow) and that will cut all flow and leave yuh scratching your head for years...Well, hopefully not years lol.

You can test that harness with a vac tool on the bench. A cheap Auto Zone vac tool kit will have all you need to do so easily and quick.

Specially, - check the little vac lines between the battery box and firewall. They like to dry out and become brittle there.
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Check the EVR for proper operation. How ? = "0" Vac to green EGR line @ idle.

Check the EGR Valve. How? Suck test the valve while at idle. Engine should almost stall if operational.

Clean the IAC Throttle body and specially the plenums EGR ports, - more so for the 4.6L's since they're smaller and like to plug up , solid!

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Your Air intake and IAT grommet ,MAF o-ring all have to be in good shape.

That's it of the top of my head. Warm idle when everything is perfect should be @ 730 rpm's IMO. If your between 730 and 750, your alright.
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Keep in mind, your exhaust should be set up right as well. Keep your upstream O2 sensors in good shape. You can clean them if they're still fairly new, but replace them @ about 85,000 miles or if the vehicle has run rich for any length of time.
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These are just a few things that can have an effect on idle and running smooth.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #229  
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Fantastic! Things to do this weekend

And this is one way to ship a tailpipe!



Wrapped in plastic lol My lab thought it was a new toy for her.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 05:00 AM
  #230  
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Yea, I have one of those as well (Black Lab). Damn dog loves coffee. She'll grab my Plastic coffee mug, if she can get to it without me busting her in the process. Sneaky thing, I have never caught her in the act. I tried spying on her a few times, - Nope DENIED. - What she does, - grabs my plastic mug , knocks the lid off and laps up what ever coffee that might be in there. That's not too big of deal, -what cheeses me off, -she gets a caffeine buzz and chews the fricken handles off my mugs. Now I have 3 mugs, that I know of with NO Damn Handles, -just two little stubs where they use to be.
Fricken Mutt

Other than that, great dogs
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #231  
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Question... will this work on my V8?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123

I have two labs, both rescues, her in the photo is Shyla, and the other one is Reagan.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 08:40 PM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by FF Titus
Question... will this work on my V8?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...TQ:MOTORS:1123
No, - the box might.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #233  
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As far as intakes if your basically stock, -A 3" tube (any) into the factory box w/an Amsoil nano fiber filter (dry element only). Don't run an oiled element.

Hell, I just bent a piece of 3" ID exhaust pipe before, -the cheapest and quickest way lol. You need to thread in 2 brass barbs by the TB, also port a 5/8 hole half down for an IAT grommet, - then use a 3" Fernco @ the MAF side.

That's just one of the many I've run, - have a pic of it somewhere, - I think I still do (?) Yea, here's one from way back when lol -

 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #234  
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Sooooooooooo

Got all my parts in for the tail pipe and I'll say this, holy moly was that the easiest thing I've ever done!

It was like playing with Knex as a kid, everything went together, bolt down and DONE!

I also got the stock air intake back in there and she's idling fine.

BUT

And there's always a but I see some oil or something coming from the connection from the new manifold to the cat connection piece. When I start her up, a ploom of white smoke comes out, twice now.

I pray this thing doesn't have an oil leak. I'll post photos soon.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 08:16 AM
  #235  
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From: Coventry RI
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 09:29 AM
  #236  
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Check the pcv valve, make sure it is a motorcraft and is working properly. Could be a large amount of blow by burning off. That ground to the frame I see, in the starter harness, looks like it could use some love.

Looking back at your first few posts, your throttle body showed excessive signs of blow by along with the pcv hard line you had removed (broke) but don't remember you replacing the pcv valve it self.
 

Last edited by Toyz; Jul 15, 2011 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 11:59 AM
  #237  
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PCV hard line I pulled one out of the junk yard locally, it was a similar match and I only put it in temp so I could get her running again. Rockauto I didn't see it, they only sold tubes, rubber, which I was told not to do due to the possibility of it collapsing.

Going to change the oil too, my filter is behind my bumper on the drivers side, I'm reading online 7qts, 6.5qts, which one is right?
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 02:51 PM
  #238  
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6 qrts only. That's with or without a remote set up. To much oil is very bad for these engines. They will froth, bubble seize the main, blow gaskets, fill the lower intake with oil, etc etc.... Yea, never run your oil at the top hash on the stick. The 6 quart fill on the remote stick is 1/4 -1/2 inch down from the Max line.

Yea, you can ruin your engine running without a PCV valve. Not sure how your able to accomplish that. (?)
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #239  
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I have a motorcraft PCV valve in there, the hardline works, it's just not the correct one for this engine. 6qts with an oil filter, got it. Thank you.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #240  
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Ugh....I just CAN'T win. I drained the oil, 1.5qts came out of it...with the oil filter, that's ALL. So I put the correct amount into it. Started her up and well.. I'll post the photos and videos.


As I was going up a hill with 4H on, the exhaust came out with authority. Fogged up the whole road and as I came around for a second time up the hill, it was holding back, not wanting to go past 30, and just didn't feel like it had any ***** you know? So I pressed on the gas some more, my RPM shot up past 5 or 6, I heard a grinding and that's all she wrote. She chugged along barly as I was able to make a U turn and thankfully went downhill back to my house. My engine was stalled and had no power anything.

Got it about half way up my driveway and it wouldn't turn over. Let it sit for a minute or so then got it running again and was able to back it in and park it. The videos should explain the rest.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sk-nUARSgIQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzkGZYubIUw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XuQuYvvyKec

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5GByH6_O_30
 
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