99 5.4 V8 Questions

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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 12:49 AM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by Toyz
Ive been doing carpentry for 15 years. When it comes to sawzalls, milwaukee is absolutely the best.
Now they may have caught up to porter cable, but for along time, the "Tiger Saws" were the best. Heavy duty and had the Amps. Toyz, if you've been into carpentry, you should know this lol.

That's why I'm curious about the Amps of the Milwaukee, -I'm betting they're just as bad *** as the PC TS's are now.

Most of my drills are Milwaukee. The 1/2" Hole Shooter will break your arm if your not careful lol. Milwaukee is at the Top with Tools and Accessories. But man, they are expensive. Thing is, you really do get what you pay for with Milwaukee
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 07:08 AM
  #182  
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I paid $100 for mine, comes with a 5 year guarantee. I think it's 12 or 14 amp, I'll look when I wake up a little more. I don't like battery tools, just not my thing. This one was made in the USA, from us and outside us parts. Gotta help our boys one way or another.

I bought the diamond tip and carbide tip that can cut through iron. The long blade made it easy. Those 15mm bolts didn't stand a chance.

I'll get in there when I get off shift today. Work has a mig welder I might be able to borrow.

I saw the shocks looks nasty. Once I can get this on the road, I'll see how she feels and if I need to replace them, then I will
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:27 AM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Now they may have caught up to porter cable, but for along time, the "Tiger Saws" were the best. Heavy duty and had the Amps. Toyz, if you've been into carpentry, you should know this lol.

That's why I'm curious about the Amps of the Milwaukee, -I'm betting they're just as bad *** as the PC TS's are now.

Most of my drills are Milwaukee. The 1/2" Hole Shooter will break your arm if your not careful lol. Milwaukee is at the Top with Tools and Accessories. But man, they are expensive. Thing is, you really do get what you pay for with Milwaukee

Ahhh the tiger saw. Some fond memories. It was nice that they had the switch for the orbital option. I had one years ago (when they came in metal cases) and can't say anything bad about it other than the size and weight of the damn thing. I should have been called the big giant will cut through anything saw. I would imagine they have gotten lighter, and still kick ***. Just always favored the milwaukee though for some reason.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 05:06 PM
  #184  
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Barf! When did they start brewing Nasty Gansett again?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:13 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Toyz
Ahhh the tiger saw. Some fond memories. It was nice that they had the switch for the orbital option. I had one years ago (when they came in metal cases) and can't say anything bad about it other than the size and weight of the damn thing. I should have been called the big giant will cut through anything saw. I would imagine they have gotten lighter, and still kick ***. Just always favored the milwaukee though for some reason.
Here's a Hilti, - look, it's got a wussy handle

 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:23 PM
  #186  
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That's for the typical off the job Sally who doesn't want to break a nail. Would just get in my way when I'm laying on my back jamming the neck of that thing with the blade buried somewhere my eyes can't see into some foreign object screaming and cussing for it to cut....one handed. And I could buy 2 milwaukee's and a case of beer for the price of that.

I just noticed your pic, two tigers on the floor next to the cases. That's how I remember them. They must still sell them in metal boxes
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 06:54 PM
  #187  
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Hey now, my wife works for Gansett.. But it's been back for quite a few years and is pretty damn good. But to stay on track...

Borrowed the mig welder from work and nothing got done. I had nuts on the bolts and welded them to each other...nut would come right off. Multiple times, multiple fails.

Vice grips are simply spinning or a half turn then they pop right off. I'm getting pretty frustrated as the mig needs to go back tomorrow and 2 hours outside with nothing accomplished.

I really don't want to drill these out, as I don't have the bits and honestly at this point the patience to do that.

Am I doing something wrong here?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:11 PM
  #188  
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Or if I can get the mig tomorrow, how would you guys do it? Thread the nut to the head then weld away?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:13 PM
  #189  
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is there room to spin the nut all the way down and get a fat bead around it?

if you can get it all the way down and weld above the nut, that should do it

Just flushing it to the top and welding it would probably just tear the weld and the nut will come off
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #190  
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Yea, if you can thread a nut on the stud just a little, w/half of the threads still showing. You know what I mean ? Just run the nut down at least a 1/4", you want the nut threads showing, just a couple of them.

This way you can bevel weld it @ about 45 degree's or so. That's the strongest weld for what you have to work with.

Cut the wire "flush" with tip.

Rest the guns tip on the nut.

Get ready to put your helmet on lol.

With the tip resting on the nut , you position the gun to point directly at the joint (inside the nut).

Flip your helmet down and pull the trigger, hold it for 2 seconds and don't move, just feed.. Make sure you count two seconds.

That should be enough, but you can poke it a few more times, doing the same. Trick is resting the gun tip on the piece, then angling where you want to weld.
 
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Old Jun 20, 2011 | 09:58 PM
  #191  
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The long bolts I can do that to, but what about the short ones? I'll look for a flat nut to screw onto it.

Looking forward to tomorrow, hopefully this will do the trick.
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 08:43 AM
  #192  
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What, let me look again. Did you cut those with the SawZall lol. That must of been a btch lol. Hey, why not, the manifolds are trash anywho.

Yea, the short ones look alright. Remember you'll be spot welding inside the nut. Beat a nut on there if you have to. Trick is to leave just enough reveal for a good sot weld. Don't try to move around and be creative, you just want to rest the torch (gun tip) on the inside edge if the nut (cut your wire back flush w/tip end first). Pull the trigger for 2 seconds.

What kind of Mig are you using ? If your supplying the wire, get the Lincoln Wire. Although, for this you could probably get away with Schitz Wire lol.

Don't worry about being to close to the head, just follow what I posted, you'll be alright.....I think ?

I gottuh go, the D amn woodchucks keep chucking my wood!
 
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Old Jun 21, 2011 | 08:50 AM
  #193  
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Originally Posted by Toyz
is there room to spin the nut all the way down and get a fat bead around it?

if you can get it all the way down and weld above the nut, that should do it

Just flushing it to the top and welding it would probably just tear the weld and the nut will come off
Iduno, I think they'll come right out welding the nut. The heat alone will free it up from aluminum cast. Might be able to use a pair pliers on them right now lol.

Once there loose, they should spin right out by hand.

Honest lol. Okay, maybe not.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #194  
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Well I got two short ones out, then the rain came. I was having issues with the two longest ones on the left side, the ones I didn't have to cut that were already broken off for who knows how long. I did exactly as you said and I gave it time to cool too, but the nut kept spinning and breaking the weld. Same with the very short one on the right, just turns and breaks the weld.

Too much moisture in the air maybe?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 12:09 AM
  #195  
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Nah, your not getting penetration. Try this,-

Wire wheel them first, cleans contaminants and oxidation.

Set the mig on the High setting, IF it has low and high.

Crank the wire feed to #5 setting.

Rest the torch on the nut, flip your mask, pull the torch trigger for two seconds.

Don't let it cool down that much. Give it maybe about 10 seconds. The heat will assist. A good weld will hold after 10 seconds.
 
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