Ok guys I bought a 2001 f-150 4.6 liter romeo ( vin w) the motor was blown up. I purchased a 1998 romeo 4.6 liter came out of a expedition. Its non pi head and a pi intake. I used silicon on both sides of the gasket I was having issues with coolant leaking out the front left side of the coolant port. Now I dont have any coolant leaks but I have now discovered I have no heat. BOTH heater hoses are cold and stay cold even though the upper radiator hose is plenty hot. idk if I blocked off a coolant port on accident or not. I replaced the thermostat with no luck, I think im gonna take the water pump out and check that because I took the front heater hose off while the motor was running and nothing was pumping out of it. there was coolant there but I thought it would be gushing out with the motor on. And I did use the PI Intake gaskets. Any Ideas on what the problem could be?

 

I didn't know that PI intakes could fit over non PI heads.........

Silicone on what gasket? Intake gasket?

 

yeah i used silicone on the intake gaskets.

 

Like Toyz said the PI intake is not compatable with the non PI cyl heads. It will fit but the intake ports won't line up exactly. The cyl head intake ports are shaped different and the PI intake gaskets are different as well. No heat could be the least of your worries. A jacked up combination like you have is a hydrolock just waiting to happen. When the silicone starts breaking loose and it will, coolant will flow into the cyls via the front intake ports and hydrolock the engine. You may be losing coolant already and thats why you have no heat.

 

Not trying to argue with you or anything im looking for answers but why is it then that a ton of people are doing pi intake on non pi heads for a little bit of gain in horsepower? I know they sell the kit to do it also but alot of people have been doing it with silicone too.

 

I would listen to dynotech if I were you. He's one of the people here who truly know the ford modular engines.

Besides that, I have NEVER heard of anyone running a PI intake on non-PI heads. People do the PI head swaps all the time, but not mixing the intake manifolds, they get the proper intake manifold for the heads. Maybe you misread this somewhere, but I agree its a terrible idea, and a hydro-lock waiting to happen. I would go and find a non-pi intake manifold right away.

- Erik

 

ok I have a non pi intake from a expedition that came with the motor but what do i do about the cops? also is the mustang 4.6 liters a romeo or a windsor? heres a right up right here http://www.americanmuscle.com/pi-intake-install.html

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...take-swap.html

 

Its really not the PI intake thats doing much for you in terms of a power increase with that swap its the PI cyl heads. However you need the PI intake to match the PI cyl heads or purchase the adapter plates/gaskets that are being sold for the mixed combination. Using silicone on a front cover may not be a problem but using it with something like the intake and cyl heads where you have much more thermal expansion/contraction taking place is not recommended. You have steep temperature variations in that area from ice cold coolant and air to hot coolant, combustion temps, etc. The larger (mass) aluminum components ( intake and heads) do a lot of moving around under those conditions. Even more movement takes place between the aluminum heads and cast iron block. I know I have done some infamous cobble jobs on some of my vehicles as well to save money when I had a young family,some worked some didn't but doing it right and sleeping good at night has a lot of merit as well. Good luck.

 

I wasnt trying to do this swap, Its a 01 and the motor blew up, I bought a junk yard motor and it came off a 98 expedition i didnt know about the heads at the time. I did a little research and people were saying you can put the pi intake on the non pi heads if you use silicone or else it will leak. Which it did because i didnt know that i had to use the silicone at the time. I have the 98 expedition intake I think it will work but I run into the problem with the cops, it doesnt have the bolt holes in the non pi intake to bolt the cops down. I really cant afford buying the pi heads, does this combination have anything to do with having no heat though?

 

Well, for the cops, you could get the engine wiring harness off of a 97-99 that still used plug wires and coil packs instead of cops. Then you just replace the harness, mount the coil packs, and run the 8 wires.

As for the heat, I'm not sure if that would cause the problem, but if you had heat before without any problems then it probably is the intake manifold.

- Erik

 

I read the article you provided. I personally think its a half *** way to do things but whatever. I would like to know what happens when that big hunk of RTV he applied in the cyl head coolant port decides to break loose. Does it migrate into the heater bypass tube blocking it off and prevent coolant from entering the heater core? Looks possible to me, wonder why you have no heat?

 

Why do the water pumps have a different part number from 98 vs 2001 did they change the fin design or what?

 

I can't believe they published that write up on PI intakes installed over non PI heads. Why have a higher flowing manifold anyways if your heads don't port/flow match with the intake. I don't get it. And rtv sealant in coolant passages..is amazing.

I would also be concerned about the rtv breaking loose and blocking a coolant passage somewhere. Also, some thermostats have been known to be faulty right out of the box. It may be a pain, but you can run it without the thermostat to see if thats the issue. A water pump should give you some sort of indication that it is faulty, noise, doesn't spin freely or has a lot of play, leaking.. etc.

 

Yes they changed the design. They manufacture the current water pumps with a fin support design it's basicly a metal ring that connects to all the impeller fins, prevents them from flexing and possibly breaking it also is more efficent and requires less energy to spin. The newer pump will work on your engine as well.

 

fella's, I got a problem, the heat in my ol lady 98 f150lariat wont come on. now, let me spell out what i did so for. It is blowing, I checked all fuses, I check the vacuun lines, there is a line on the control valve that does not seem to have much sucktion so i swapped it with one that was right below it on something else (as you can tell I am not very good with truck mechanics, give me a PLC and I go to town but truck engines stomp me) anyway, when i swapped that vacuum line the control valve did change states and he pipe leaving that line burnt the mess out of my hand. it wasnt hot before that. but I did not get any hot air in the cab. I changed the thermo **** also, it dont seem the blend door actuator is working. I dont hear it change positions. think this is the problem or does anyone know of another check i should do before taring the dash out?