01 head gasket job Please help
JMC and Jbrew copied and pasted right from the info jbrew sent me
NOTE: The new cylinder head bolts must be lightly oiled with a rag, and allowed to drain for a few minutes prior to installation
so its in there ...did they stop doing this ????
NOTE: The new cylinder head bolts must be lightly oiled with a rag, and allowed to drain for a few minutes prior to installation
so its in there ...did they stop doing this ????
I didn't lol. So far all has come from an online library. - Except for what I sent you. That came from the 2002 Workshop on disc. But yea, it should be about the same, but just in case; - I'm pulling from the other now, since I don't have a 2000-2001 Workshop DVD. I have the 99 and the 02, but nothing in between on disc. Sounds confusing don't it ?
wow, I had not! Thanks jbrew
Thats exactly whats happening on mine. I can't believe they made a specific gasket for this issue, it must have been something prevalent. I will definitely order that right away and hope it solves this issue.
To think I was about to do something crazy like remove the head to have that surface checked out. You just saved me a ton of frustration, time and money if that gasket works.
Thanks so much man, your the best
- Erik
To think I was about to do something crazy like remove the head to have that surface checked out. You just saved me a ton of frustration, time and money if that gasket works.
Thanks so much man, your the best

- Erik
Also, - since the update was back in 2000, chances are, you may have the right gaskets, - just on the wrong side, - if that's possible. I don't think their side specific are they? Never-mind, I know they are because of dowel locations. So yea, maybe they didn't give you the right one for that side. I hope it's that easy. Good Luck.
Last edited by jbrew; Nov 13, 2010 at 08:55 PM.
Don't thank me yet, - sounds like the problem, but it may not be. ?
Also, - since the update was back in 2000, chances are, you may have the right gaskets, - just on the wrong side, - if that's possible. I don't think their side specific are they? Never-mind, I think they are because of the dowel locations. So yea, maybe they didn't give you the right one for that side. I hope it's that easy. Good Luck.
Also, - since the update was back in 2000, chances are, you may have the right gaskets, - just on the wrong side, - if that's possible. I don't think their side specific are they? Never-mind, I think they are because of the dowel locations. So yea, maybe they didn't give you the right one for that side. I hope it's that easy. Good Luck.
I'm hoping this will fix it. Either way, I still thank you just for letting me know about that TSB. I'll order, install it then check for leaks and compression check. If everything is good, then I might just owe you a case of beer

- Erik
I just looked up an on line non Ford site and read the same note you posted above. It comes right after the last caution. NOTE: The new cylinder head bolts must be lightly oiled with a rag, and allowed to drain for a few minutes prior to installation
I've got questions
I'm going to do this with the engine in ..
will I really need to remove the valve springs ???
if I can leave them in do I need to have the crank set to a certain angle/O'clock
during the removal
during reassembly I can jus follow the Timing Procedure for the 97 -03 Two valve 4.6L & 5.4L Modular Engines Posted by Dynotec...correct
I'm going to do this with the engine in ..
will I really need to remove the valve springs ???
if I can leave them in do I need to have the crank set to a certain angle/O'clock
during the removal
during reassembly I can jus follow the Timing Procedure for the 97 -03 Two valve 4.6L & 5.4L Modular Engines Posted by Dynotec...correct
I've got questions
I'm going to do this with the engine in ..
will I really need to remove the valve springs ???
if I can leave them in do I need to have the crank set to a certain angle/O'clock
during the removal
during reassembly I can jus follow the Timing Procedure for the 97 -03 Two valve 4.6L & 5.4L Modular Engines Posted by Dynotec...correct
I'm going to do this with the engine in ..
will I really need to remove the valve springs ???
if I can leave them in do I need to have the crank set to a certain angle/O'clock
during the removal
during reassembly I can jus follow the Timing Procedure for the 97 -03 Two valve 4.6L & 5.4L Modular Engines Posted by Dynotec...correct
You don't need to remove the valve springs to take of the heads. The valves will have enough clearance to avoid hitting the pistons if the keyway is at 12 O'clock. The crank keyway has to be set to 12 O'clock and never moved until the chains are installed and the motor is timed again. You have to be sure that your at the right 12 O'clock though, because for every 2 rotations of the crank you get 1 of the cams I believe. So at one 12 O'clock of the crank the timing mark on the cams will be facing down. One more rotation of the crank to 12 O'clock again will put the timing marks of the cams roughly 90 degrees to the bottom of the head. You should have the cam timing marks up to ensure your at the proper 12 O'clock position.
You also need to determine whether your motor is a windsor or romeo because the timing procedures are slightly different. Romeo motors have only 1 colored chain link per end that go right on a tooth on the cam and crank gears. Windsor motors have 2 colored links on one end that go on either side of the timing marked tooth on the cam gears, and 1 link on the other end that goes right on the timing marked tooth on the crank gear.
You can determine if your motor is Romeo or Windsor by counting how many bolts hold on the valve covers. I believe romeo has 11 bolts on the valve covers, and windsor has 14.
Dynotech's write-up is for a romeo engine.
If you have a windsor like I do, then you need to look in my head gasket thread here:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ny-good-3.html
That post of mine at the top of this page has the PDF I followed to retime mine.
Let me know if you have any questions because I want to make sure you got everything.
- Erik
Yeah, I think they are side specific because they're labeled right and left, and unless I've been doing everything completely backwards, right and left are from the perspective of the drivers seat. As in right is passenger side and left is drivers.
I'm hoping this will fix it. Either way, I still thank you just for letting me know about that TSB. I'll order, install it then check for leaks and compression check. If everything is good, then I might just owe you a case of beer
- Erik
I'm hoping this will fix it. Either way, I still thank you just for letting me know about that TSB. I'll order, install it then check for leaks and compression check. If everything is good, then I might just owe you a case of beer

- Erik
Also, you could compare that to the TSB part #, for that side. I guess I'm lookin for more confirmation, - so I can get an accurate count on brewhahah's comin this way.
Where did you get the gaskets your using now ? Can you get a Part# for those ? That's what I would do, -just out of curiosity. Then google the snot out of it. See what others have to say (if anything) about that # specifically.
Also, you could compare that to the TSB part #, for that side. I guess I'm lookin for more confirmation, - so I can get an accurate count on brewhahah's comin this way.
Also, you could compare that to the TSB part #, for that side. I guess I'm lookin for more confirmation, - so I can get an accurate count on brewhahah's comin this way.

Part # is: MS92836-1
Set came with both left and right intake gaskets, and the oval throttle body one. I googled it but all I found was places trying to sell it really, no reviews and googling whatever numbers were on the individual gaskets turned up nothing either.
Same thing with the TSB part number unfortunately. There was mention of the actual TSB in the search, but I couldn't find anyone who had used the gaskets.
- Erik
Well I'm done for the night
....got the supercharger off, headers unbolted,wiring harness out. and all the other BS out of the way ..got it to jus the valve covers, crank pulley, and timming cover ...
the only problems I ran into were the studs on the rear passenger head that hold the crossover tube what a PITA to get @ must have taken me 30 to 45 to get them out
..and I hit my head on the hood hard enough to make me want to bend it in half 

oh and there was a header bold on the pass side that was hard to reach so I removed the starter and that gave me the room I needed
....got the supercharger off, headers unbolted,wiring harness out. and all the other BS out of the way ..got it to jus the valve covers, crank pulley, and timming cover ...the only problems I ran into were the studs on the rear passenger head that hold the crossover tube what a PITA to get @ must have taken me 30 to 45 to get them out
..and I hit my head on the hood hard enough to make me want to bend it in half 

oh and there was a header bold on the pass side that was hard to reach so I removed the starter and that gave me the room I needed
I just looked real quick and found this about that revised gasket, -
Owners of some 1999 and 2000 model Ford vehicles equipped with the two-valve version of either the 4.6L or 5.4L engine may experience a slight coolant leak. The vehicles affected include the 1999 and 2000 models of the Mustang as well as the 2000 models of the Econoline, Excursion, Expedition, F-150 and F-series Super Duty, only if equipped with one of the above-mentioned engines and manufactured between July 1, 1998 and June 30, 2000.
In some cases, this leakage may manifest itself as a visible leak coming from the rear corner of the cylinder head on the passenger side of the vehicle. This might not be visible as a notable leak, however, and in some cases, the leak may manifest itself only as a slight seepage of coolant from the suspect area. Therefore, if you own one of these vehicles and have observed an inexplicable and repeated loss of engine coolant over time, this potential area of concern warrants a closer look.
According to Ford, a coolant leak in this area is likely caused by a defective intake manifold gasket. The engineers at Ford have re-designed the manifold gasket; utilizing a different sealing material. Installing the revised gasket should correct the condition. The re-designed gasket is available through any Ford dealership as part number YL3Z-9439-AA.
While a repair as involved as this is likely best left to your local professional automotive technician, it is not beyond the realm of possibility for the true automotive enthusiast or do-it-yourself person to handle at home. If attempting this repair at home, the use of a reputable service repair manual is strongly encouraged.
Note: While similar in appearance, the re-designed passenger side intake manifold gasket is not interchangeable with the gasket on the left side of the manifold. If attempting this repair on your own, Ford says to continue using the original gasket on the left side and use the new gasket on the right side of the manifold only.
This -
oh yeah, the gaskets are improved a bit, and you can noticed theres actually a double gasket between the last intake and the coolant line. So the gasket has been updated. I'm finally on the phone with a parts guy that seems to know what hes talking about, he's looking up my actual engine to see if theres an intake that matches it correctly. kinda sad that this is my 5th ford to talk to.
As far as Felpro #'s, - these -
For the 2000, - Felpro has good and better.
Part #: FPMS96368
Mfr #: MS96368

__________________________________________________ __
Part #: FPMS98008T3
Mfr #: MS98008T3

____________________________________________
Rock has your part # for Felpro's
FEL-PRO Part # MS928361
FEL-PRO Part # MS98008T3 - The T3's are the Perma Dry Plus Gaskets.
Victory Heinze looks pretty good as well..
__________________________________________________ __
Here again, - Fords -
Ford has - Part# 9439 Intake manifold gasket
That's the revisioned = Your part # revised = #YL3Z-9439-AA
__________________________________________________ _______
Owners of some 1999 and 2000 model Ford vehicles equipped with the two-valve version of either the 4.6L or 5.4L engine may experience a slight coolant leak. The vehicles affected include the 1999 and 2000 models of the Mustang as well as the 2000 models of the Econoline, Excursion, Expedition, F-150 and F-series Super Duty, only if equipped with one of the above-mentioned engines and manufactured between July 1, 1998 and June 30, 2000.
In some cases, this leakage may manifest itself as a visible leak coming from the rear corner of the cylinder head on the passenger side of the vehicle. This might not be visible as a notable leak, however, and in some cases, the leak may manifest itself only as a slight seepage of coolant from the suspect area. Therefore, if you own one of these vehicles and have observed an inexplicable and repeated loss of engine coolant over time, this potential area of concern warrants a closer look.
According to Ford, a coolant leak in this area is likely caused by a defective intake manifold gasket. The engineers at Ford have re-designed the manifold gasket; utilizing a different sealing material. Installing the revised gasket should correct the condition. The re-designed gasket is available through any Ford dealership as part number YL3Z-9439-AA.
While a repair as involved as this is likely best left to your local professional automotive technician, it is not beyond the realm of possibility for the true automotive enthusiast or do-it-yourself person to handle at home. If attempting this repair at home, the use of a reputable service repair manual is strongly encouraged.
Note: While similar in appearance, the re-designed passenger side intake manifold gasket is not interchangeable with the gasket on the left side of the manifold. If attempting this repair on your own, Ford says to continue using the original gasket on the left side and use the new gasket on the right side of the manifold only.
This -
oh yeah, the gaskets are improved a bit, and you can noticed theres actually a double gasket between the last intake and the coolant line. So the gasket has been updated. I'm finally on the phone with a parts guy that seems to know what hes talking about, he's looking up my actual engine to see if theres an intake that matches it correctly. kinda sad that this is my 5th ford to talk to.
As far as Felpro #'s, - these -
For the 2000, - Felpro has good and better.
Part #: FPMS96368
Mfr #: MS96368

__________________________________________________ __
Part #: FPMS98008T3
Mfr #: MS98008T3

____________________________________________
Rock has your part # for Felpro's
FEL-PRO Part # MS928361
FEL-PRO Part # MS98008T3 - The T3's are the Perma Dry Plus Gaskets.
Victory Heinze looks pretty good as well..
__________________________________________________ __
Here again, - Fords -
Ford has - Part# 9439 Intake manifold gasket
That's the revisioned = Your part # revised = #YL3Z-9439-AA
__________________________________________________ _______
So that is the correct Part#. I didn't get nothing special. My gaskets were wasted twice, - like destroyed at the front water jackets, - heads were even pitted. - twice. That's a 98 thing and I 'm close to 300,000 miles as well.
So , when I change the gaskets, - I blast the pits and use aluminum filler first lol
If I were you , I would go with that Ford Part.
So , when I change the gaskets, - I blast the pits and use aluminum filler first lol
If I were you , I would go with that Ford Part.
Well I'm done for the night
....got the supercharger off, headers unbolted,wiring harness out. and all the other BS out of the way ..got it to jus the valve covers, crank pulley, and timming cover ...
the only problems I ran into were the studs on the rear passenger head that hold the crossover tube what a PITA to get @ must have taken me 30 to 45 to get them out
..and I hit my head on the hood hard enough to make me want to bend it in half 

oh and there was a header bold on the pass side that was hard to reach so I removed the starter and that gave me the room I needed
....got the supercharger off, headers unbolted,wiring harness out. and all the other BS out of the way ..got it to jus the valve covers, crank pulley, and timming cover ...the only problems I ran into were the studs on the rear passenger head that hold the crossover tube what a PITA to get @ must have taken me 30 to 45 to get them out
..and I hit my head on the hood hard enough to make me want to bend it in half 

oh and there was a header bold on the pass side that was hard to reach so I removed the starter and that gave me the room I needed



