Victor Reinz Head Gaskets: Any good?

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  #31  
Old 10-11-2009, 04:44 AM
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Doing some google searching I came across this PDF on setting the timing on the 5.4.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...ming_02_54.pdf

Just thought I'd share it to complement the walkthrough that DYNOTECH posted.

BTW: The guy who had posted this online suggested that you don't need the special tools if you remove the rockers so that the cams can freewheel. So just one more way to do this I guess.

- Erik
 
  #32  
Old 10-11-2009, 08:31 PM
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Or drain the lifters free of oil at the front and rear of the head? That will allow the cams to spin a little easier. That website you provided will work best for you if you have made the markings on the timing chains otherwise you need to follow Bluejays write-up. I am still having difficultys, but thanks to this forum, we'll git er' dun!
 
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FRod
Or drain the lifters free of oil at the front and rear of the head? That will allow the cams to spin a little easier. That website you provided will work best for you if you have made the markings on the timing chains otherwise you need to follow Bluejays write-up. I am still having difficultys, but thanks to this forum, we'll git er' dun!
That would be DYNOTECH's write up.

Bluejay posted it.
 
  #34  
Old 10-11-2009, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by scruffy
Doing some google searching I came across this PDF on setting the timing on the 5.4.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...ming_02_54.pdf

Just thought I'd share it to complement the walkthrough that DYNOTECH posted.

BTW: The guy who had posted this online suggested that you don't need the special tools if you remove the rockers so that the cams can freewheel. So just one more way to do this I guess.

- Erik
Yea, this thread has everything needed info wise to DIY
 
  #35  
Old 10-11-2009, 09:05 PM
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I removed my head with no problems. i just need to get the parts now.

I posted some pic in the thread i started.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...lugs-cops.html
 
  #36  
Old 10-11-2009, 09:19 PM
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oh, MY BAD JBREW! lol!

lees99f150 - when you removed the heads, your drivers side cam should have recoiled and spun out of place, correct? And are the cam gear marks facing more upward or more downward side?
 
  #37  
Old 10-11-2009, 09:26 PM
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ok, nevermind i checked out the other thread. And that answered my question, i had to spin the crank around 1 more time to get the gears to face the right way for timing, now that i know this im happy!
 
  #38  
Old 10-11-2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by FRod
oh, MY BAD JBREW! lol!

lees99f150 - when you removed the heads, your drivers side cam should have recoiled and spun out of place, correct? And are the cam gear marks facing more upward or more downward side?
When i marked it, it was 90 deg from the deck (straight up) and once the chain was removed it spun 90 deg clockwise as you look at it. I think this is why they recommend using the cam holding tool. No big deal to reposition it so the marks line back up for reassembly.
 
  #39  
Old 10-12-2009, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scruffy
Doing some google searching I came across this PDF on setting the timing on the 5.4.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jm...ming_02_54.pdf

Just thought I'd share it to complement the walkthrough that DYNOTECH posted.

BTW: The guy who had posted this online suggested that you don't need the special tools if you remove the rockers so that the cams can freewheel. So just one more way to do this I guess.

- Erik
Not sure about these diagrams showing two copper timing links on the cam gear. The only engine that two colored links were used on the cam timing gear were on the 4v engines not the two valve engines. The timing marks on the cam and crank gears of a two valve are right in line with a tooth not between the teeth such as a 4v so only one link at each end of the chain is needed not the two at one end and one at the other as shown here. Hope people don't get confused using this. In any event yes you could remove the followers but with the method I use the pistons are all down far enough in the bores so there is no danger of bending the valves anyway when you rotate the cams with the chains removed. It would just be a lot of extra work to remove the followers IMO. Take care.
 
  #40  
Old 10-12-2009, 05:27 PM
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-Edit - DYNOTECH are you sure that the 2v don't have two colored links on the cam gear side of the chain? Because from looking at lees99f150's thread he had to color two chain links on the cam gear side of things because the cam gear mark fell between two links on the chain. Just want to clear that up and learn as much as I can for when I change the head gasket in the near future.

- Erik
 

Last edited by scruffy; 10-12-2009 at 05:39 PM.
  #41  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:13 PM
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So i found another place with valuable information reguarding the links. It says, if you cannot find the copper links, to do this, for 5.4 and 6.8 engines in reply to a guy that broke a timing chain on his 1997 f150 5.4

http://www.justanswer.com/view_image...4/7924FG92.gif

The Q&A is at http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...e-1997-f-150-5

click, "READ MORE" in orange.

Now, am i lining the link at the one end of the chain to the punched "dimple" on the crankshaft timing gear, there is only 1 punch. Is this correct?
 
  #42  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FRod
So i found another place with valuable information reguarding the links. It says, if you cannot find the copper links, to do this, for 5.4 and 6.8 engines in reply to a guy that broke a timing chain on his 1997 f150 5.4

http://www.justanswer.com/view_image...4/7924FG92.gif

The Q&A is at http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...e-1997-f-150-5

click, "READ MORE" in orange.

Now, am i lining the link at the one end of the chain to the punched "dimple" on the crankshaft timing gear, there is only 1 punch. Is this correct?
Yes, the crank gear punch mark (timing mark) and both left and right chain marked link must all line up, crank gear mark, left chain, and right chain, stacked.
 
  #43  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:42 PM
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So that link needs to rest on this cog? OK. Now, the marks on the cam gear do not line up with a specific link, its in between two links. So, which is true? 2 links for the cam gear or 1?
 
  #44  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by scruffy
-Edit - DYNOTECH are you sure that the 2v don't have two colored links on the cam gear side of the chain? Because from looking at lees99f150's thread he had to color two chain links on the cam gear side of things because the cam gear mark fell between two links on the chain. Just want to clear that up and learn as much as I can for when I change the head gasket in the near future.

- Erik
I see that. the Romeo built engines used one link at each end of the chain (except the 4V engines). I have never dissasembled a Windsor modular so I'm thinking this diagram may very well be for a Windsor build. The cam gears in the diagram even look different. Regardless you have to have an even number of links between colored links. If it comes up an odd number and you have Windsor engine that would explain this diagram. I could call someone and find out. I'm heading out of town tomorrow AM for a week though. A Windsor engine code is a 6 and Romeo engine code is a W. I will make a call early tommorow morning to Windsor.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 10-12-2009 at 09:49 PM.
  #45  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:47 PM
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mine is L, its a 2002 5.4, and i tossed the valve covers cuz they were broken. How else would i be able to find out if its windsor or romeo!
 


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