It shouldn't miss at all, - that sucks. Where in the rpms is it missing? What's your warm idle at in park?

 

well its more like a rough idle and a little slow on the throttle I belive I have the gap on the plugs to wide @ 32

 

The coils fire NA at 54 so 32 will not affect the idle. You could have an iffy plug. It happens. New coils and boots? Injectors? Slow on the throttle could be the tune.

 

found it I never got #7 injector plugged in ...runs great now.

I am very happy this was a major job in my book took awhile to get completed but I took my time and never rushed, I must have cleaned the head and block 10 times before I set the gaskets and head on over all it wasant bad jus took lots of time the only tools that I needed that I didnt own was a torque wrench, chain bar and a damper puller ( for crank pulley) I had all the other tools in my tool box ..

a tip for the last two head bolt on the pass side. I zip tied them to the cam so they were out of the block but still in the head ...as there is no room to get them all the way out of the head ..I also did this to install them also worked great ....

 

Hey guys,

Sorry I haven't updated sooner, been a bit busy over thanksgiving.

Anyways, so the leak appears to have been cured by the magical ford gasket Thanks for that jbrew

Just have a small new issue now. After about 4-500 miles on the new gasket I popped a code day before yesterday. Came home and scanned it, came up as:

P1151 - Lack of HO2S21 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean (see P2197)

I know this is probably a vacuum leak, as its quite possible a hose cracked during disassembly/reassembly. I also have a bit of a miss at idle, but that could also be that I haven't replaced the cops just yet after getting wet.

It's prob the PCV hose, as I just replaced the PCV a few weeks back due to it losing oil into the intake manifold. I have to go hunting for the leak. If it is the PCV hose does anyone have a part number for that?

Also, my O2's could just be going out. I'm almost positive they're still original, and with 140K its very likely they're just going bad. If the code comes back, I might just move the rear O2's forward, as I have the rears shut off in the tune anyway.

Either way, I cleared the code, and I'm still waiting for it to return.

Opinions? Ideas?

Thanks,

- Erik

PS: 01lightningsuper: Glad to see everything worked out for you man. And I've had one of those forget to plug something in scares before lol. Forgot the IAC after I did the head Gaskets, and it scared the crap out of me when the motor spun up and then instantly died lol!

 

No problem, -didn't you think it was the head gasket again, -at first? That would have really sucked if you did it twice and it leaked AGAIN lol.

Yea, Ford screw around the intake gaskets allot thru the model years. For the most part, it was dowel locations. They moved them around thru the years. I didn't have problem with my 98, but when you see the back the head wet for 97-03's, -it's easy to mistake that for a head gasket leak. That's because the engine sits at an angle. Coolant on top of the block cavity and on top of the heads, - it all drains to rear of the block and channels to passenger side of the motor, then straight down to the ground (around the starter area). It's in this process the rear back half of the passenger side of the head gets wet.

Some Modular blocks have what looks like to be an inspection plate at the rear of the block valley by the bell-housing. That's suppose to ba an overflow from what I have read. Problem is, -it can seal itself off with dirt and grease in time.

P1151 Lack Of HO2S21 Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean


The PCM (test conditions) tests @ ~ Engine load is between 20 and 60%, it is at least 180 minutes since start up (after reset). The exhaust temperature is assumed to be 800° C.

That's a vac leak, fueling problem (regulator, but usually incorporate hard starts) or a connector. Connector problems are common. I've had a few that didn't look dirty, but they were, enough anyway. So if the Pins inside the connectors look clean, - clean them again anyway. Hers some Data -

Troubleshooting

Before suspecting the HO2S, the wire connection to the sensor should be checked first. Examine the wires for chafing. Then inspect the connector on the sensor for moisture or damage to the pins. Because the signal voltage is very low (less than 1 volt) the connection is sensitive to damp or poor connection. The heating voltage and current should also be checked and these connections should be clean and bright.

If a careful inspection of the wiring raises no concern log on to the PCM and take a reading of the sensors after warming the engine for at least 3 minutes (to allow closed loop to commence.) Several points should be borne in mind:

1. A sensor should read high (0.6 to 0.9 volts) or low (0.1 to 0.4 volts.) It should never read 0.0 volts.
2. On V engines, do not compare the front sensors together - they will not show the same switching, nor should they - the two Banks of the engine are two separate fuelling cycles.
3. Any sensor showing a negative value (-0.1 to -1 volts) is showing a CSD and the ceramic body has broken. The sensor must be replaced.
4. A Front sensor HO2S11, 21, should be showing a regular 'switch' from high to low, at a frequency of about .7 seconds. Periods of 'flatlining' ie no switching, means that the sensor may be deteriorating and may need to be changed if DTCs are being generated.
5. A front sensor that is not switching may not be faulty, even if DTCs are generated. Check the Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT) - they may be consistently positive caused by an air leak, or either negative or positive by a faulty fuel pressure regulator, or negative caused by a faulty MAF sensor.
6. A rear sensor HO2S 21, 22, operating correctly on a good catalyst should show a very slow switching.

 

Time to look over the install and tighten all the clamps and connections that may have vibrated loose. Don't forget to check between the MAF and the Throttle Body. If you removed the O2 sensors check the connectors for corrosion and that they are seated properly.

 

Great info Jbrew, and yeah JMC, I have to go over everything.

Alright, so the code came back tonight on my way home. I went ahead and data logged the switching of the 02's just to see what they were doing.

Here's some nice fancy graphs of the switching:

Front O2's (Bank 1 = Green, Bank 2 = Blue)


Rear O2's (Bank 1 = Green, Bank 2 = Blue)

So it looks like on the front 02's the bank 1 sensor is switching great, and the bank 2 is barely switching.

On the rear sensors, bank 1 seems ok, and bank 2 seems like it's stuck switched high.

I guess I'll have to crawl under there sometime this week and check all the connectors and wires, plus I'll look around the engine compartment for a vacuum leak while I'm at it.

Bank 1 would be passenger side (1-4), and Bank 2 would be drivers (5-8), correct?

Thanks,

- Erik

 

Nice Freeze Frame Data Scruffster. Yea "Green" = Passenger Side/ "Blue" would be the Drivers.

Yea, The same DTC will keep reappearing after reset every-time, after conditions are met. It doesn't always happen right away. I recall some O2 programs have to fail test(s) 3 consecutive before setting one. Looks like you have a problem.

If this problem appeared for the first time, - AFTER working on it, - you can almost bet it's somethings loose.. A bad connection somewheres.

I think it's the O2 connector.



Hey! Where did that come from ???

Huh, that's strange, it just kind of appeared, - all on it's own ?

NoWorries/JustKidden

__________________________________________________

Yea, a scanner like yours would make a cool Christmas present. - I'll PM you my address lol.

Crap, I guess I'll have to learn how to read one now






Good Luck

 

Yessir, you are correct. Problem began after the latest tear apart for that gasket. Did a quick check last night of everything. Nothing loose in the engine compartment, and none of the 02's look damaged or have frayed wiring. I'll have to tear into it this weekend and try cleaning those connectors. Might have dripped some degreaser on em while I was cleaning the valley.

Hey man, I haven't forgotten bout the brewski's I promised if that gasket worked. I dunno if i can afford another one of those programmers lol, but I def owe you for finding that. I'm serious lol, PM me an address and I'll send you something for all your help. Don't think I should be mailing beer around the country (could get messy), but I'll figure something out.

- Erik

 

http://www.yougotbeer.com/ygb/faq.jsf

 

lmao awesome! Thanks glc I didn't know that existed.

I was probably just gonna mail him one of those visa gift cards you can use anywhere, but that's pretty frikin' cool

I guess I'll leave it up to jbrew to see which way he would prefer his lol.

- Erik

 

I think you should send the OP a beer too for high-jacking his thread!

Phil

 

thanks for looking out Phil

but really I'm OK ...Truck is running great ..

 

Nah, - can't really call it a "high-jack" phil, can we. ?? I think we were on topic , - but with another users truck lol. That just adds to it, - the thread.

Yea, "high-jack" doesn't really fit all that great. - It's more like a "bolt on", -added to it. Great info about gaskets and the thread titles cool.

So far it's a good one for those who search. - Packed full of info.