Neither does Ford, - I sent you 3 procedures from Ford. You should have them.(?)

I tested what I sent, to make sure the diagrams come thru. I sent them via Micro Office -Outlook, since Word is part of the program. But, I forward them to a Google Acct. Google will give you the diagrams if your other server won't. Google's free/ cross platform.

Now you may want to follow your bolt instructions, - since adding oil to threads and bolt chambers changes torque value. Sometimes it may change values by as much as 30%. So you may want to confirm with the bolt manufacturer or Ford on this one.

Maybe someone will chime in about this. I wouldn't like not knowing.

JMC or Dynotech might be able to help there, - since they have done it more than just a few times.

got them thanks jbrew .. they do have a note about oil on the head bolts

NOTE: The new cylinder head bolts must be lightly oiled with a rag, and allowed to drain for a few minutes prior to installation.

Great! - Glad you looked at that, because I didn't see it. But, I only went thru one of three sent. That's good then, now you know.

Hey guys,

I went through this last December on my 2000 5.4. Almost exactly the same symptoms as your truck: rusty coolant, and misfires on passenger side head.

I feel like I need to warn you to have your heads checked to make sure they're not warped. I stupidly didn't and I've been trying to fight a really slow coolant leak for this entire year. There's no coolant going into the cylinders or oil, but it's leaking externally, onto the tranny bell housing. I believe it's actually that my pass side head is so warped that the intake manifold is leaking, because it pools around the cops and injectors then runs down the back. I replaced the manifold 2 weeks ago along with the manifold gaskets to try and fix it, but no luck. Still leaking, and it got much worse today. Had a nice puddle under the truck after work. I know for sure its from the manifold gasket area, as its not the heater core hoses because they're not wet and I replaced them too with the manifold. So I'm just saying have them checked, because it looks like I'm going to have to pull the pass side head off again to have it machined this weekend.

If you need info on the timing I can pull up my head gasket thread from last year where dynotech described how to time the romeo motors. Mine is a Windsor though, so we had to figure that one out, but we got it right because it worked great for me.

Sorry for the long post, but I figured its better that I warn you so maybe you can avoid a bunch of BS. I just happened to stumble upon this because I'm going to have to do it all over again this weekend...

Good Luck,

- Erik

Best to go with the instructions included with the bolts IMNSHO, while I have several Chiltons manuals I wouldnt rely on them in this case, again just my opine. Were all of the parts made in the good ol USA or some questionable country?

ya know I found it intresting that it had a "made in" for every gasket in the set ..most were good ol USA made some from Aus and a couple from Italy

10-4 and I have already read your thread

That totally blows. It's probably best to have them resurfaced regardless. Unless you have a exceptionally good eye and a very true straight edge, -one that doesn't lie lol.

Alright cool , hopefully my screwup at least will save you some frustration lol

hey, not to hijack or anything, but anyone know if ill have any problems just resurfacing only one head? Just something I'm wondering about. I know it's minuscule, but will it matter being a tiny bit uneven?

Thanks,

- Erik

My sig link will tell yuh where you have to be in relation. But, -you already know what SHOULD be done. Allot depends upon how bad it's warped. It sounds bad, specially if it's leaking already. The other side COULD start leaking after your thru fixing the other. You can't know for sure. It's a gamble I wouldn't want to take, but that's my opinion only.

I completely agree with you jbrew, I don't want to half-a$$ this again. I agree I SHOULD really do both. The only reason I ask is that the passenger side one was the original leaky one, the drivers side was fine, but I still went ahead and changed both gaskets. I still have zero problems with the drivers side head. I guess I just wanted an opinion on how likely I am to have problems in the future with the drivers side head, having already changed the gasket, because I'm very strapped for cash/time at the moment due to work and school.

Thanks again,

- Erik

Best to take it to a competent machine shop & have it checked with the proper tools, grandmas yardstick or a "good eye" aint gonna cut it:-)

Glad to hear the parts are made in countries one can have confidence in, it was refreshing to NOT see China in your "where made" list!

Compression test all 8 currently/See how far your out/Document findings/Fix the side leaking/Test all 8 again, drivers side should be the same, if you test warm and follow same procedure. If you test cold, oil will be cold, so you'll have different readings. It will be convenient to test cold in this case. Compare the fixed side with the drivers side. If relatively the same, then theoretically, your fine.

By the way, make absolutely sure the leak is from the head. The outside back of these heads (by #4) gets wet, -mine did. It was definitely coolant, but it wasn't coming from the head itself. These engines always like to leak under the lower intake @ the rear water pump stem, - where the heater core hard-line connects. This fills the V cavity with coolant eventually and overflows onto the bell housing spilling down the passenger side of the engine. In the process, the head gets wet by #4. Just thought I better let you know, -specially if compression #'s are good in comparison on both sides.

I have a fix for that heater tube, if it's leaking, -let me know.

Hell, maybe you already checked that all out first. If not, it's the O-rings that go bad. There's two on the WP stem.