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Victor Reinz Head Gaskets: Any good?

Victor Reinz Head Gaskets: Any good?

 
  #16  
Old 10-09-2009, 12:11 AM
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http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?t=109923

The mustang guys do it all the time.
 
  #17  
Old 10-09-2009, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Camarothatcould View Post
yea the torque wrench was about 3 foot long... While making the last pass to torque I had the gear in the ratchet slip twice, my hand right into the block a few times... felt like punching jbrew in the brain... only my hand got hurt
What!

You can't punch my brain, It's buried way to deep to infiltrate, you can try with your other wimpy hand if you like. Just remember , I get a turn too
 
  #18  
Old 10-09-2009, 12:22 AM
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i was referring to your untouchable source of knowledge
 
  #19  
Old 10-09-2009, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Camarothatcould View Post
i was referring to your untouchable source of knowledge
Oh,- see, - my brain has already took a shot

 
  #20  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:02 AM
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one and only time.....


now fix my 4x4
 
  #21  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by lees99f150 View Post
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?t=109923

The mustang guys do it all the time.
There yuh go, good find if all the info is their - I didn't read thru it all yet, I will.
 

Last edited by jbrew; 10-09-2009 at 01:07 AM.
  #22  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Camarothatcould View Post
one and only time.....


now fix my 4x4
What's wrong with it ? You have a thread going somewhere ?
 
  #23  
Old 10-09-2009, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew View Post
What's wrong with it ? You have a thread going somewhere ?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...4x4-story.html
 
  #24  
Old 10-09-2009, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Camarothatcould View Post
Yea, that ones beyond me, - sounds like a tough one for sure CTC, but you have good guys helping yuh. I've heard of the GEM causing those kind of problems before. Kingfish would be a good source to go to as well, - could PM him and see what he has to say.
 
  #25  
Old 10-09-2009, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lees99f150 View Post
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?t=109923

The mustang guys do it all the time.
I don't have a cam locking tool, but the thread lees99f150 posted shows that it is possible to do without one.

Really, unless I'm misunderstanding things, it's difficult to mess up the timing. Both cam gears, the crank gear and both chains have marks on them for the purpose of alignment, so the trick is getting them all to line up properly lol...

I'll figure that one out when I get there I guess.

- Erik
 
  #26  
Old 10-09-2009, 08:23 AM
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i'll take it to work and throw it one IDS... if that fails, I'll start throwing parts at it... Vacuum solenoid, shift motor
 
  #27  
Old 10-09-2009, 11:30 AM
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In regards to cam timing. Remove cam covers, damper and front cover. Do not remove chains,chain tensioners, or guides yet. Now rotate the crankshaft so the crank keyway is at 12:00. IMPORTANT! Do not move the crankshaft again until both chains,tensioners and guides have been reinstalled and tensioners released. Now remove the chain tensioners and chains. The pistons will all be low enough in the bores with the crank in this position so you can reinstall heads and rotate the cams to set the timing without bending valves. Two ways of finding the correct links to place on the crank and cam timing marks. Look carefully and you should be able to find two darker links on each chain each 180 degs from each other. Those would be the original copper colored timing links. The best way is to lay each chain down flat on a table and pull them lengthwise so you have two parallel rows of links tight against each other. At each end you will have one link facing the opposite direction of the two rows of links. There will be an equal number of links in each row making these end links the two you want to mark with a paint pen. They will be the links that are placed on the timing marks, one on the cam gear and one on the crank gear timing mark. Install the cam timing gears and crank timing gears. Now place the driverside chain with paint marked link on the crank timing gear mark. Holding the chain move it up to the cam gear and while rotating the cam timing gear only NOT THE CRANK! align the other painted chain link up with the cam gear timing mark and place it over the timing gear and into place aligned with the cam gear timing mark. The chain should now be in place with paint marked links one on the crank gear timing mark the other on the cam gear timing mark. While holding the chain tight install the chain tensioner under the chain guide and tighten both tensioner bolts. Now perform the same operation to the passenger side chain. Now visually inspect the painted links making sure that all 4 are lined up with the timing gear marks, two on the crank timing gear and one on each cam timing gear. Now remove the chain tensioner retaining pin allowing the tensioners to extend and put pressure against the chain. Reinstall HDR wheel, front cover, etc. Remember not to move the crankshaft through out all this leaving it's keyway at 12:00 through out the entire process. This is one of those things that once you do it you and get the hang of it it's quite easy. No need for special cam locks and or anything else. Good luck.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 10-09-2009 at 10:10 PM.
  #28  
Old 10-09-2009, 04:01 PM
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Thanks DYNOTECH! I was hoping someone would post a "How To" in regards to timing, ~without the cam lock tool.

Great Post! Saved and Filed.

I've been lucky up to this point, - This truck has been part of the family for over 10 years. Now sits at 262,000 miles and the heads haven't been off the block yet. My times coming soon I bet, -this will come in handy when it does. Not that familiar with SOHC or DOHC as far as timing procedures, but know how crucial it is to get it right the FIRST time.

Easy write-up to follow.

Thanks man

Would you mind if I referred you and your write up to the "How2's" on this site, - for easy access? You'll be able to make revisions or whatnot if you think of anything else to add that may help. ~
"Technical Article Contributor"
 

Last edited by jbrew; 10-09-2009 at 04:24 PM.
  #29  
Old 10-09-2009, 10:00 PM
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Go right ahead jbrew. Anything that can help someone out here I'm all in favor of it. If you ever need to replace the heads whatever let me know jbrew. I'll meet up with you and give ya a hand. Like nothing better than to get my hands back into one of these engines. Take care guy.
 

Last edited by DYNOTECH; 10-09-2009 at 10:13 PM.
  #30  
Old 10-10-2009, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DYNOTECH View Post
Go right ahead jbrew. Anything that can help someone out here I'm all in favor of it. If you ever need to replace the heads whatever let me know jbrew. I'll meet up with you and give ya a hand. Like nothing better than to get my hands back into one of these engines. Take care guy.
Sounds good, thanks !! Working with someone that know's what there doing would be a treat

I'll pull the cab and clip, then give yuh a call. ~ Might as well make a little easier on the back bone

Here it is, thanks again and thanks for your help as well Mr. Bluejay . -

Check out the title, it almost sounds like one of those professionally done a babcox editorials lol

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...r-engines.html
 

Last edited by jbrew; 10-11-2009 at 06:45 PM.

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