Yeah it just seems that if it was wired that way, it may be a little easier then pulling the cluster out. If you find out how to do it that way let me know. What is that relay diagram you posted?

 

I have 3 relays in my fan wiring. 1 to turn off the fans. 1 to turn on the passenger side fan and 1 to turn on the driver side fan. The relay shows how I wired he turn on switch relays.


Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

i thought the controllers did that...this seems like a waist of time for me and i do not think i am capable of it. I thought i bought the controllers 35 a piece to do that...

 

What controllers did you buy? I forgot. You may be able to wire up a switch to fool it into thinking that the AC has turned on and that will trigger the controller. I wanted the redundancy of bypassing the controllers with the switches in case they got fubar`d some where in the bush miles from civilization.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

 

OK, looks like the Derale controllers. You would need a diode to stop the switch from activating the AC but something tells me you won't want to screw around with a diode....

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Does this help clear things up?

 

I find it interesting that the Derale kit monitors the temp at the radiator inlet. IMHO the proper monitor is at the radiator OUTLET, the way that DC Controls does it. Fans are there to take heat out of the radiator and thus should be controlled by the radiator temp, not the engine temp. You want to keep the engine temp as stable as possible, and try to keep it as close as possible to the thermostat temp. I have my DC controller set to kick on the fans at a point just before the engine temp goes over the thermostat temp. I don't get that temperature swing associated with measuring the water temp out of the engine. I can sit and watch the temp on my Edge stay at 196 while the fans kick on and off - just like it did with the stock fan. It actually works better than the stock fan in the summer Phoenix heat, as the stock setup would let the engine get up to 208-210 driving around the city and now it stays below 200 - and my AC works better too.

 

What temperature do your fans turn on at? A lower temperature than what one would set the temperatures if one was probing at the radiator inlet. You have to account for the cooling effect of the radiator. The closer that you are to the engine the closer you will be to the actual temperature of the engine coolant. I would prefer to have the probe in the coolant cross over but I don't feel like tapping the crossover for a probe. If you set your fans up properly you won't have the fluctuation. The thermostat is what really controls the engine temp. It opens when the coolant reaches a certain temp and closes when it cools down. How fast it cycles is dependant on the cooling system. If you set the fans to turn on at too low of a temperature then they will over cool the coolant and the thermostat will close. On a hot day when you are working the engine hard it will open up sooner. Then it will close again. That is how you get the yo yo effect. Readjusting the temperature settings will fix the problem. The only difference between your way and mine is that my fans will turn on sooner than yours and they will turn off sooner. That is if they turn on at all.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I wanted to let every one no about my experience with the company called DC Control. I purchased through his website the FK35 controller. Paid for it through his pay pal link that minute. It had been over a month since I paid for it and I hadn't received an email much less the product. I sent him an email asking if I was going to receive the product. Three weeks later I get a rude email from him saying that he will not be sending a product because I was "basically accusing him of being a thief." Obviously no such thing was every said. Now I am currently trying to fight with pay pal for a refund. Do your self a favor and do not buy anything from DC control.

 

Not true at all Chad, You sent an email on Friday evening asking about your order and if I was “even a real business”, I responded Monday morning, simply asking if you would like to rephrase your email. In your next email, you then again implied that I was taking your money. I then told you that, since you were essentially accusing me of stealing your money, it would be best if I just refunded what you had sent me. Over the course of that day you vacillated between threatening to file a paypal claim and asking for the product, all the while, continuing to become more insulting.

My response was simply that doing business wouldn’t be a good deal for either one of us, I offered advice with regard to a competitors product as an alternative and stated that you would have your money back by the end of the day, which you did. Your response to that was to then refer to me as a deadbeat.

In my opinion, you had a valid complaint with regard to the time it had taken to ship, but berating someone is not how you get what you want, that should have become clear to you after your dealings with the ebay seller documented in this same thread. If you would like, I can post both your and my emails, along with the paypal refund notice.

 

Jean Marc Chartier[/QUOTE]

That’s not entirely correct, without the fan or the truck moving, the coolant temperature is typically within a few degrees from the top to the bottom of the radiator since there is essentially nothing to remove the heat. Once everything stabilizes, meaning that the thermostat is open and there is enough airflow to keep the temperature at a stable point, the heat rise through the engine is typically about 12 degrees. There is a delay in temperature from the top to the bottom of the radiator of about 30 seconds, but that’s more than compensated for by the 12 degree temperature offset in the controller.

Contrary to popular belief, the time that it takes a relay set up to cycle off has very little to do with the temperature or the controller. As an example, when your truck reaches 200 degrees in the dead of winter, the thermostat will be fully open, so very little water cycles back through the water pump via the bypass hose. When the fan then turns on, the coolant out of the radiator might be as low as 70 degrees F. The thermostat will remain open until that cold water reaches the top of the engine, and when that water arrives the thermostat will close and the fan will turn off. The cycle then repeats once the engine is again hot enough to open the thermostat.

Having said that, sensing the temperature out of the radiator with a controller that isn’t able to regulate the engine inlet temperature will cause the fans to cycle on and off continuously, so the best place to sense it is determined by how it’s controlled.

 

baskin,

Why didn't you simply ship the product when it was ordered? What is up with the 1 month wait time?

5150

 

frod, 5150, jmc, and ne 1 else who has been so helpful, thanks.

 

There was nothing rude about me asking if I was going to receive the product or if I should seek a refund through Pay Pal. Once again, a month had gone by without any correspondence from the company. So if I jumped the gun...than how long should a customer have to wait for a product he paid for before he begins to wonder if the company is legitimate? I never accused you of anything. I simply asked.