Mountain Suckage Need Help

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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 06:56 PM
  #16  
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Originally Posted by jbrew
I'm curious , do they require data logging before they set it up? Or is this an option? Can they "can" the tunes going by ones mods? That doesn't seem logical.

Not sure how this works, I'm guessing you get canned tunes that can be tweaked thru logging. Is that correct?

Maybe the best thing to do is head down to the speed shop/ get on the dyno/ purchase tunes from them ? That most likley depends on who's doing the tuning

What's cost effective? What will net you the best end result?
I can't speak about the "they", only Bill Cohron at PHP. To get a tune, you fill out a form that gives him all the information known about your truck including all mods and what kind of performance goals you have. I also added a fairly complete description of my truck and trailer including photographs so he could get a feel for wind drag, etc. I also told him where we were likely to be driving while towing - the mountains.

So, you essentially get an "improved" canned tune I guess.

It worked for me! The truck pulls better (in my opinion) throughout the towing speed range and on that 2400 mile trip over the mountains of Colorado, I averaged 0.71mpg better than my previous best mpg on "flat" ground here in Arizona.

Can a dyno tune be better? Possibly a little, depending on your goals. Can you dyno tune for "towing"? And, can a dyno tune factor in wind resistance while towing (which is what really uses up the power once you reach cruise speed)?

Isn't a dyno what the EPA uses to estimate mpg? We ALL know how reliable that is!

- Jack
 
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Old Aug 30, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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The dyno's for dialing in the engines potential - I don't think it matters if the winds blowing

Just put me @ MAX .

Tuned Fuel Trim ~ Air/fuel ratio's I think.

Towing = The trans tables get modified.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Aug 30, 2008 at 08:10 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 12:07 AM
  #18  
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Originally Posted by jbrew
The dyno's for dialing in the engines potential - I don't think it matters if the winds blowing

Just put me @ MAX .

Tuned Fuel Trim ~ Air/fuel ratio's I think.

Towing = The trans tables get modified.
On the first point, sorry - you're not quite right (but I guess it depends on what you are trying to achieve). If you drive into a strong headwind, the air/fuel mixture ratio is going to be different than if you are driving with a strong tailwind if your goal is to achieve best efficiency (best mileage for fuel consumed). A dyno will not give you this.

A dyno tune is for raw power potential (standing still). Perfect if you were operating in a vacuum (with a self-contained air source) on a dyno stand.

If you pull a high profile trailer, the effect is the same as driving into a strong headwind. So, your second point is partially right - you'd like the shift points to be modified to account for the extra weight and wheel drag, but, you need to account for the extra air drag at cruise too. And, how is the trans table modified? Through software - not a dyno test.

And, if you run at high altitude, your dyno tune at sea level is going to be somewhat questionable, since it has adjusted the A/F ratio for sea level density. (And please, don't tell me the PCM adjusts properly for decreased air density at altitude).

So yes - if you want to take your truck to the local drag strip to impress fair young maidens, get a dyno tune (better yet, get a rail). If you want to run efficiently, in the real world, I think you need to base your tune on many other factors.

- Jack
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 12:23 AM
  #19  
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How much do custom tunes go for? I appreciate all the comments guys thanks a bunch
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 12:38 AM
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I think it's anywhere from $295 to $449 depending on how involved you want to get and how many different tunes you want (low octane, high octane, towing, performance, economy, etc.).
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 01:39 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JackandJanet
On the first point, sorry - you're not quite right (but I guess it depends on what you are trying to achieve). If you drive into a strong headwind, the air/fuel mixture ratio is going to be different than if you are driving with a strong tailwind if your goal is to achieve best efficiency (best mileage for fuel consumed). A dyno will not give you this.

A dyno tune is for raw power potential (standing still). Perfect if you were operating in a vacuum (with a self-contained air source) on a dyno stand.

If you pull a high profile trailer, the effect is the same as driving into a strong headwind. So, your second point is partially right - you'd like the shift points to be modified to account for the extra weight and wheel drag, but, you need to account for the extra air drag at cruise too. And, how is the trans table modified? Through software - not a dyno test.

And, if you run at high altitude, your dyno tune at sea level is going to be somewhat questionable, since it has adjusted the A/F ratio for sea level density. (And please, don't tell me the PCM adjusts properly for decreased air density at altitude).

So yes - if you want to take your truck to the local drag strip to impress fair young maidens, get a dyno tune (better yet, get a rail). If you want to run efficiently, in the real world, I think you need to base your tune on many other factors.

- Jack
I don't know , I think your confusing Trans tables w Trims. - That's alright, I don't care about that.

I worked at the Dearborn plant for about 3 years on the track. If someone was caught using the dyno for mileage runs - they would have been history . You have two choices - 1. The Track , or 2. Drive it yourself, rural or thorough-way. Doesn't matter. There's a diff comp in the vehicles before they get sent off to market. it's documented and re-documented - File after file after file...

Computer adjusting for headwinds - Your starting to worry me - Yea , trans tables man. The engine will suck air in the same fashion - Trans will shift/adjust accordingly via/demand , just like they do stock. A tune (tow) may allow the shift sooner.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 01:53 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Flan
How much do custom tunes go for? I appreciate all the comments guys thanks a bunch

You can go to Troyers site - He explains all variations (short versions). glc's right about the pricing - I think the chips are in the 200's - 10% power increase w/15% Torque. Deletes the limiter and your transmission shift characteristics are recalibrated and improved. That's just a one tune chip - Plug and play.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 11:37 AM
  #23  
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Originally Posted by Flan
How much do custom tunes go for? I appreciate all the comments guys thanks a bunch
Flan - if you go to www.phptune.com you'll see exactly what Bill charges for a tune (happens to be $50). If you buy the Gryphon, the price includes three custom tunes which are put on his server for you to download later. You get the programmer with three canned tunes right away, and, while they're not as good as the custom tunes, you will definitely notice a difference.

- Jack
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 12:06 PM
  #24  
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Originally Posted by jbrew
I don't know , I think your confusing Trans tables w Trims. - That's alright, I don't care about that.

I worked at the Dearborn plant for about 3 years on the track. If someone was caught using the dyno for mileage runs - they would have been history . You have two choices - 1. The Track , or 2. Drive it yourself, rural or thorough-way. Doesn't matter. There's a diff comp in the vehicles before they get sent off to market. it's documented and re-documented - File after file after file...

Computer adjusting for headwinds - Your starting to worry me - Yea , trans tables man. The engine will suck air in the same fashion - Trans will shift/adjust accordingly via/demand , just like they do stock. A tune (tow) may allow the shift sooner.
I don't know either, jbrew. I think you are reading too much into what I was saying.

I only pointed out that a dyno is not "real world". And, I brought up "headwind" as a major factor in determining the total load on the vehicle that the engine and transmission must overcome during cruise. Also, I am much more concerned with cruise and passing considerations than tire spinning acceleration from a stop. Your goals, like mileage, may vary.

In light of all that, and as someone who has taught software engineering for 20 years, I can see how a skilled tuner could use dyno readings and "tables" and then make intelligent adjustments to "tweek" performance factors in the area of interest. But, I can also see how an unskilled tuner (and I suspect there are plenty of these around) could just "follow the book" and create something that is ok, but not what the customer wants.

I'm also fairly certain that a towing tune does more than just alter shift points.

Three tuners seem to have "earned" a solid reputation: Bill Cohron at PHP, Justin Starkey at VMP, and Mike Troyer at TroyerPerformance. I suspect if you go with any of these three and tell that person exactly what you want, you will not be disappointed.

- Jack
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 11:04 PM
  #25  
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Ok thanks.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Make sure you clean the MAF first tho, while the battery is disconnected. You'll want to disconnect BOTH neg & pos cables before cleaning the MAF. .
Why do you suggest BOTH? Once one is removed you are done, no current flows. I suggest just the neg cable myself.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 06:49 PM
  #27  
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Ok, So I took it to ford for a diagnostics test and a flash. Ended up spending $100 on nothing because they couldn't flash it????? Why and is this true? 02 F150 Supercrew Xlt 4x4. I cleaned the MAF just like you said and still no power gain.... Any other suggestions before I buy a gryphon?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 07:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Norm
Why do you suggest BOTH? Once one is removed you are done, no current flows. I suggest just the neg cable myself.
Good question. I do it out of habit. With the 98 it's easy to unintentionally complete the circuit when working in the vicinity. I pull the battery. They changed them compltely for 99.

For a 5 second reboot, via quick release - Pull just the neg and touch the Pos post - KAM's wiped and in learning mode (adaptive strategies) setting Trans tables and Fuel trims.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2008 | 07:31 PM
  #29  
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From: Among javelinas and scorpions in Zoniestan
Originally Posted by Flan
Ok, So I took it to ford for a diagnostics test and a flash. Ended up spending $100 on nothing because they couldn't flash it????? Why and is this true? 02 F150 Supercrew Xlt 4x4. I cleaned the MAF just like you said and still no power gain.... Any other suggestions before I buy a gryphon?
Don't just buy a Gryphon! Pick up the phone and talk to Bill first. Make sure he knows what you want. He'll tell you what he can and cannot do for you. That way you won't be disappointed.

And, just so you'll know, PHP is going to be shutdown for a while starting Sep 6 because Bill and Corey are are attending the NADM event at Atlanta Dragway followed immediately by a family trip to Disney World. They'll be back on the 15th, but then they're gone again to Indianapolis for four days. If you want to call him, do it now. (Note: they don't accept calls from "blocked" numbers).

- Jack
 
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Old Sep 3, 2008 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Good question. I do it out of habit. With the 98 it's easy to unintentionally complete the circuit when working in the vicinity. I pull the battery. They changed them compltely for 99.

For a 5 second reboot, via quick release - Pull just the neg and touch the Pos post - KAM's wiped and in learning mode (adaptive strategies) setting Trans tables and Fuel trims.
I just leave my headlights on when I pull the neg cable even though the bulb under the hood is enough to drain any residuals while I work. My under hood bulb does not always work without smacking it. There is a loose connection somewhere but I don't have the time or motivation to repair it.
 
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