I can't think of anything else. I have replaced the starter, the starter solenoid, check the battery voltage and checked the engine with a breaker bar to see that it hasn't seized. Everything checks out OK. I even took the new starter off and had it bench tested to make sure it was good and still the truck won't start.

When I try to start it all I get is a thud/click only one with each turn of the ignition.

It sounds like the pin is extending from the starter but not starting the truck. The engine won't even turn over like it is trying to start. Just the single click.

Any suggestions? Anyone?

Thanks

 

Did you replace the relay on the firewall ? - Did you check all MEGA(2x175amp),MAXI(2x50amp) and MINI(1x30amp) fuses ? Did you turn the motor at the crank by hand ? Did you try "N" (neutral). Check gear selector linkage. You check the ground on top of the frame behind the passenger side front shock. Did you check battery @ load ? Will it take a jump?


Below
Fuse 20 and 21 - 50(MAXI)





MAXI 175amp Below/ + Relay

 

when i did my motor swap i had a similar issue, the positive strap with braided cord around it that jumps from the solenoid to the motor broke. i would hear a click but the motor wouldnt physically spin. look up there and see if yours is visibly broken. mine broke at the ear of the tab that is retained by a nut.

 

Fricken Fuse!

 

Frame rail ground -



The Braided wire Klitch is talking about -

 

Hi,
Thank you for quick responses,

Yes, I replaced the firewall relay, I visibly checked the 20 and 21 fuses and they looked fine. I personally replaced the starter and all of the connections including the rail ground looked good.

The mega and maxi fuses seem to be working because I can jump the 2 main bolts on the relay and I get a good spark and again the click.

What's the boo switch? where is the Starter Inhibitor Relay central fuse box?
The linkage all works well. Same click in neutral.

Thanks again

 

What clicks exactly ?- Is it just 1 click or a series. When my 175 went , the continuity was good enough to click hard , but not enough to start - it would lose its connect under a load with heat and separate before engaging the starter - It was a b^tch to figure out - I temp bypassed the fuse and she fired right up. Can you tell were the thumping noise is ?

Your battery could have a dead cell, or a bad connect somewhere /internal wire break/ loosing connection. I would try to jump it to eliminate a battery load issue.

 

It's just 1 click per turn of the key. Actually like you describe more of a loud hard click. I had someone start it while I tried to locate the source of the sound and it seems to be coming from both the relay and the starter.

I tried jumping the starter by connecting a wire from the positive of the battery to the ignition post on the relay mounted to the firewall, again I still get the loud click each time I touch it but no start.

I tested the battery with a battery tester and it says the battery is good.

I don't know what else to do.

 

The engine does turn over by hand, right? You can take an 18mm socket and a pull handle on the crank bolt and turn the engine, right?

 

Check the positive wire going to the starter. It is most likely corroded and not allowing enough current through to turn the starter motor.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Yes. I can turn the motor with a 19mm socket. It does seem tight to turn but it does turn.

I just went out and agin jumped the the 2 main bolts on the relay and can isolate the loud click to the starter.

It just clicks but doesn't spin.

I also put my jump box on it to make sure that there was enough juice to turn it over and I get the same loud click.

 

Somethings up with the solenoid. The one attached to the starter ( Some call the relay on the firewall a starter solenoid, didn't want you to think I was referring to that.) - Maybe the smaller stud @ the the starter is cracked or fractured in the housing a bit. They do break real easy , specially if there not double nutted or the wires removed withe one wrench/ratchet instead of two.

I don't know what else it could be -

1. Turn the crank by hand (18-19mm) - get it between compression strokes or pull a couple plugs (1 & 5) if you have to. - Check the PCV valve, make sure it's not plugged. - Maybe your Hydro locked.??

2. Go thru the starter wiring again. Have you ever pulled those 175amp Fuses ? Did you by chance bend them at any point ? Ahhh! If it's hitting that hard at the starter , it's prolly not those fuses... Idunno..

Hope it's not locking up on yuh. Have you looked at the flywheel when you removed the starter last?



So your old starter had the same problem ???

 

I put a new starter on there that I had tested before I placed on the truck. I saw them bench test it and it sounded great. Actually I had them test the old one also since I had it off, and while it didn't sound as good as the new one, it did also pass.

Is there a way to run a jumper wire directly from the positive battery post to the starter to test if there are any shorts between the relay wires and the starter/ If so how would I do that.

 

You need a Cable to test with - Jumper cables maybe - Never did it that way - I would use a meter and/or Cty test the wire. - Theres an in-line 30 amp fuse in the alternator harness - maybe that has something to do with it , but it shouldn't..

 

I have a long heavy guage wire I can run from the positive battery terminal directly to the starter. Where do I touch it to the starter and do I need to ground it at the same time?