Champion Develops "FIX" Plug for 5.4L 3 valves!
If I purchased a used 04+ F-150 the first thing I would do is order as set of the new heads and swap them. I don't see this happening anytime soon but if I did....
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
I don't understand why. There is a pretty high success rate of changing the plugs out, that seems a waste to me. Mine were changed at 65,500 miles without a problem and I went right back with the Motorcraft. My dealer has had only one plug break, and they got it out okay. I think that if you run a good detergent fuel and follow the TSB, you have a high likelihood of getting them out without a problem. On another site, they did a poll and it was close to 80% had no problem. The poll included guys that just went out there and started taking plugs out without following the TSB.
__________________
Jim
Jim
I don't buy your optomistic view. My mechanic convinced a customer with 50,000k (31,000m)to switch his ahead of trouble and 3 broke off, and he has done tons of these, following the TSB etc...
On mine 6 of 8 broke, but I waited as long as possible and was approaching 150,000 miles. and tehn to top it off 3 fo the new Champions failed right off the bat. But those were replaced and all good since...
On mine 6 of 8 broke, but I waited as long as possible and was approaching 150,000 miles. and tehn to top it off 3 fo the new Champions failed right off the bat. But those were replaced and all good since...
PZT-14F plugs in 3V
Ford wants you to use the 14F's since they are hotter and help avoid deposits that cause intermittant misfires at higher loads - they have nothing to do with coming out easier. They've started putting nickel anti-sieze on the nose of the plug which is what they recc. on replacing as well. That's the only factory-update.
The secret to not breaking one (usually) is to use the Ford PM-3 carb cleaner after breaking the plug loose about 1/16 turn. If you don't break it loose first, nothing gets down past the tapered seat. Once the PM-3 gets past the seat, it breaks up the carbon that builds up on the nose and allows it to turn free (with lots of screaching as some have noted). If you break one, Ford dealers have tools to get it out without pulling head - it's worth taking it their and paying them to remove it.
Now, to the one-piece design that some have - it STILL can stick inside if not anti-siezed and soaked with PM-3 AND if they break, you replace the head. So the 2 pc. actually works better in the long run.
Now to Kroil, PB blaster, etc. Ford found out that it wasn't a matter of getting stuff to the plug (penetrating oil's benefit) as much as it was of getting something that attacks carbon well - e.g. PM-3.
Lastly, Ford recc. room temp - not hot, not cold. Break loose and soak for as long as you can (overnight if possible) - then turn out but if they get hard, soak again. Lastly, with all plugs out crank it over to blow carb cleaner out so you don't bend any rods when done. Nickel anti-sieze on nose only but not at tip of ground electrode (none on threads or seat either). Torque them properly and call it a day. Should only need to do every 100,000 miles. By the way, I just found Motorcraft PZT-14F's online for $8.92 ea. - search that number and you'll find some as well - Don't go with Autolite or Champions - you'll be sorry later.
Good luck - even the best of us break one of the original plugs once in a while (and I've done a lot of them).
The secret to not breaking one (usually) is to use the Ford PM-3 carb cleaner after breaking the plug loose about 1/16 turn. If you don't break it loose first, nothing gets down past the tapered seat. Once the PM-3 gets past the seat, it breaks up the carbon that builds up on the nose and allows it to turn free (with lots of screaching as some have noted). If you break one, Ford dealers have tools to get it out without pulling head - it's worth taking it their and paying them to remove it.
Now, to the one-piece design that some have - it STILL can stick inside if not anti-siezed and soaked with PM-3 AND if they break, you replace the head. So the 2 pc. actually works better in the long run.
Now to Kroil, PB blaster, etc. Ford found out that it wasn't a matter of getting stuff to the plug (penetrating oil's benefit) as much as it was of getting something that attacks carbon well - e.g. PM-3.
Lastly, Ford recc. room temp - not hot, not cold. Break loose and soak for as long as you can (overnight if possible) - then turn out but if they get hard, soak again. Lastly, with all plugs out crank it over to blow carb cleaner out so you don't bend any rods when done. Nickel anti-sieze on nose only but not at tip of ground electrode (none on threads or seat either). Torque them properly and call it a day. Should only need to do every 100,000 miles. By the way, I just found Motorcraft PZT-14F's online for $8.92 ea. - search that number and you'll find some as well - Don't go with Autolite or Champions - you'll be sorry later.
Good luck - even the best of us break one of the original plugs once in a while (and I've done a lot of them).
Welll at least you got it figured out. I havn't had any problems with my Champions and I know they are gapped incorrectly. There was a missprint when they first came out to gap them at .054 when it should have been .045. As long as it is running OK I don't want to pull the plugs to change the gap. They have been it for 7k miles and it is still running good. The only thing I've noticed lately is that every now and again when I first take of from a stop there is a spit second of spark knock(detonation). Only happens a time or 2 a week so I figure it is not hurting anything. It's probably the incorrect gap causing it but until it gets worse I'm not messing with anything.
Well my my truck started to misfire on cylinder #2. Thought it was the fuel injector since I have an 05 but turned out to be the Champion plug. I have not seen it yet but I will post a picture tonight when I get the truck back. The dealer said the side of the plug was black and scortch looking so they replaced it with motorcraft. Guess I'm going to have to replace the rest with mcraft. The champion only lasted about 9-10k miles.
I don't understand why. There is a pretty high success rate of changing the plugs out, that seems a waste to me. Mine were changed at 65,500 miles without a problem and I went right back with the Motorcraft. My dealer has had only one plug break, and they got it out okay. I think that if you run a good detergent fuel and follow the TSB, you have a high likelihood of getting them out without a problem. On another site, they did a poll and it was close to 80% had no problem. The poll included guys that just went out there and started taking plugs out without following the TSB.
It seems a mute point at this time as it seems that Ford didn't revise the head as I was told they would. Besides with the promise of the 6.2 in the Raptor who wants a Triton engine?Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
I push my engine harder than the normal person would. I pull and read and or change the plugs more frequently. I would not like to have to take a day to pull plugs.
It seems a mute point at this time as it seems that Ford didn't revise the head as I was told they would. Besides with the promise of the 6.2 in the Raptor who wants a Triton engine?
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
It seems a mute point at this time as it seems that Ford didn't revise the head as I was told they would. Besides with the promise of the 6.2 in the Raptor who wants a Triton engine?Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
__________________
Jim
Jim
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...8-up-5-4s.html
__________________
Jim
Jim







