What engines swap easily into a 98?
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From: Texas
What engines swap easily into a 98?
My wife's 98 f-150(4.6) started having a vibration at all RPM's(stationary and in motion). When we checked the oil, it was milky and had a yellowish tint to it(friends say it looks like a blown headgastket). I'm not familiar with ford engines at all, so I'm gonna have to take it to a real mechanic to fix. I'm not a big fan of the 4.6 for a tow vehicle, so I was hoping to swap in something better without too much work. It's not a fulltime tow vehicle, so maybe I should leave the 4.6? I don't know. Is it worth the trouble or should I swap something else in there while the motor is apart or out? I'm only planning to pull a my racecar to the track a few hours from here(maybe 4 times a year). Let me know what you guys think. I'd appreciate any help or advice.
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From: MI
I would look for a 99+ 5.4L . It's not much extra work at all. You'll need a re-tune for the comp or a 99 + computer. Any mechanic can make that happen fairly easy.
There a worth while power increase over the 98 4.6L AND it will probably get the same or better mileage. Allot less effort to get from A to B.
There a worth while power increase over the 98 4.6L AND it will probably get the same or better mileage. Allot less effort to get from A to B.
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Here read this;
Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Revised 19 October 2007
Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations. The 4.6 exhaust will not bolt up to 5.4 manifold.
Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. 97-99 4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and the 4.6 ignition coil packs. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.
Engine harness: The IAC harness must be relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 is too short so it must be extended. All 97-00 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the 4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way. Note you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together. All 97-98 4.6 engines use an engine coolant temp sensor. Some use 2. None of the 99+ 5.4s use any. You will have to tap the intake manifold crossover pipe to fit the sensor. Some 4.6 engines (97-8) have two sensors.
Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6 engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6 Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.
Tuning: It is best to have a custom tune done to accommodate the extra displacement of the 5.4.
You should be able to use the 4.6 MAF as any competent tuner can adjust for it. It is always best to discuss this with your tuner.
Knock Sensor:
The 97-98 99 4.6 uses a 2 wire knock sensor. The 97-98 5.4 has 3 wires of which one is a ground. Both have a Yellow /red wire to pin 57 on PCM.
1997-98-99-2000-01 Yellow/red to 57 on PCM 4.6 Same for 5.4.
97-98 Pin 91 feeds power for 4.6 and other components. Same for 5.4
1999- 2000-01 Pin 32 for power. Same fore 5.4
2002+ Cannot confirm.
Accessories: Some engines have 8 rib serpentine belts and some have 6. Be sure to check so that your accessories have the correct pulley.
Misc: Both engines use the same engine mounts and their location on the block are also the same so your old ones will fit. Unbolt and place aside the AC and PS. You need to remove the intake manifold for the engine to come out. Yes there are 3 bolts on the starter.
JMC
Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Revised 19 October 2007
Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations. The 4.6 exhaust will not bolt up to 5.4 manifold.
Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. 97-99 4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and the 4.6 ignition coil packs. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.
Engine harness: The IAC harness must be relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 is too short so it must be extended. All 97-00 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the 4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way. Note you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together. All 97-98 4.6 engines use an engine coolant temp sensor. Some use 2. None of the 99+ 5.4s use any. You will have to tap the intake manifold crossover pipe to fit the sensor. Some 4.6 engines (97-8) have two sensors.
Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6 engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6 Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.
Tuning: It is best to have a custom tune done to accommodate the extra displacement of the 5.4.
You should be able to use the 4.6 MAF as any competent tuner can adjust for it. It is always best to discuss this with your tuner.
Knock Sensor:
The 97-98 99 4.6 uses a 2 wire knock sensor. The 97-98 5.4 has 3 wires of which one is a ground. Both have a Yellow /red wire to pin 57 on PCM.
1997-98-99-2000-01 Yellow/red to 57 on PCM 4.6 Same for 5.4.
97-98 Pin 91 feeds power for 4.6 and other components. Same for 5.4
1999- 2000-01 Pin 32 for power. Same fore 5.4
2002+ Cannot confirm.
Accessories: Some engines have 8 rib serpentine belts and some have 6. Be sure to check so that your accessories have the correct pulley.
Misc: Both engines use the same engine mounts and their location on the block are also the same so your old ones will fit. Unbolt and place aside the AC and PS. You need to remove the intake manifold for the engine to come out. Yes there are 3 bolts on the starter.
JMC
Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 920
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From: Mandeville, La
Great info.
Originally Posted by JMC
Here read this;
Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Revised 19 October 2007
Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations. The 4.6 exhaust will not bolt up to 5.4 manifold.
Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. 97-99 4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and the 4.6 ignition coil packs. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.
Engine harness: The IAC harness must be relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 is too short so it must be extended. All 97-00 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the 4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way. Note you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together. All 97-98 4.6 engines use an engine coolant temp sensor. Some use 2. None of the 99+ 5.4s use any. You will have to tap the intake manifold crossover pipe to fit the sensor. Some 4.6 engines (97-8) have two sensors.
Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6 engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6 Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.
Tuning: It is best to have a custom tune done to accommodate the extra displacement of the 5.4.
You should be able to use the 4.6 MAF as any competent tuner can adjust for it. It is always best to discuss this with your tuner.
Knock Sensor:
The 97-98 99 4.6 uses a 2 wire knock sensor. The 97-98 5.4 has 3 wires of which one is a ground. Both have a Yellow /red wire to pin 57 on PCM.
1997-98-99-2000-01 Yellow/red to 57 on PCM 4.6 Same for 5.4.
97-98 Pin 91 feeds power for 4.6 and other components. Same for 5.4
1999- 2000-01 Pin 32 for power. Same fore 5.4
2002+ Cannot confirm.
Accessories: Some engines have 8 rib serpentine belts and some have 6. Be sure to check so that your accessories have the correct pulley.
Misc: Both engines use the same engine mounts and their location on the block are also the same so your old ones will fit. Unbolt and place aside the AC and PS. You need to remove the intake manifold for the engine to come out. Yes there are 3 bolts on the starter.
JMC
Notes for 4.6 to 5.4 swap Revised 19 October 2007
Exhaust: The collectors on the exhaust manifolds are set at different angles and locations. The 4.6 exhaust will not bolt up to 5.4 manifold.
Ignition: All 5.4 engines use Cop ignition. 97-99 4.6 engines use coil packs. It is easier to wire your 5.4 using the harness from the 4.6 and the 4.6 ignition coil packs. If you use the 4.6 Coil pack ignition you will have to fab a bracket for the driver side coil pack.
Engine harness: The IAC harness must be relocated to the rear of the throttle body elbow. The oil sender wire on the 4.6 is too short so it must be extended. All 97-00 4.6 engines use some sort of intake manifold runner control valve. Remove it from the 4.6 and plug it into the 4.6 harness and bolt it to the engine some where out of the way. Note you can get a tune to remove its function and eliminate it all together. All 97-98 4.6 engines use an engine coolant temp sensor. Some use 2. None of the 99+ 5.4s use any. You will have to tap the intake manifold crossover pipe to fit the sensor. Some 4.6 engines (97-8) have two sensors.
Transmissions: the 4.6 and 5.4 have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. That means that all the transmissions will bolt up. All the 5.4 engines have 8 bolt crankshafts. Some 4.6 engines (ROMEO ENGINE) have 6 bolt cranks. You will need the flex plate from the 5.4.
Manual transmissions: If you don’t have an 8 bolt flywheel a flywheel from a 1997-8 4.6 Windsor engine will work. As it has 8 bolts it will bolt right up to the 5.4 crank. Remove the flex plate spacer and install a pilot bearing from a 4.6.
Tuning: It is best to have a custom tune done to accommodate the extra displacement of the 5.4.
You should be able to use the 4.6 MAF as any competent tuner can adjust for it. It is always best to discuss this with your tuner.
Knock Sensor:
The 97-98 99 4.6 uses a 2 wire knock sensor. The 97-98 5.4 has 3 wires of which one is a ground. Both have a Yellow /red wire to pin 57 on PCM.
1997-98-99-2000-01 Yellow/red to 57 on PCM 4.6 Same for 5.4.
97-98 Pin 91 feeds power for 4.6 and other components. Same for 5.4
1999- 2000-01 Pin 32 for power. Same fore 5.4
2002+ Cannot confirm.
Accessories: Some engines have 8 rib serpentine belts and some have 6. Be sure to check so that your accessories have the correct pulley.
Misc: Both engines use the same engine mounts and their location on the block are also the same so your old ones will fit. Unbolt and place aside the AC and PS. You need to remove the intake manifold for the engine to come out. Yes there are 3 bolts on the starter.
JMC
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by glc
Search out posts by "camdenlake" - he did a V10 swap and documented it thoroughly.
JMC
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From: Texas
Well, my wife decided to just have a real mechanic to replace the gasket. She doesn't trust my "skills" LOL. Is it really that hard to pull apart the top of that motor with it in the truck? The guy says it's gonna cost atleast $600. That's crazy because he quoted me $500 to rebuild my motor and reinstall it in my Firebird.
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From: MI
Originally Posted by gunz4life2
Well, my wife decided to just have a real mechanic to replace the gasket. She doesn't trust my "skills" LOL. Is it really that hard to pull apart the top of that motor with it in the truck? The guy says it's gonna cost atleast $600. That's crazy because he quoted me $500 to rebuild my motor and reinstall it in my Firebird.
That sounds about right actually - BUT! I would get the compression checked first before going through that expense. It may not even be worth fixing.
Once the oil has been contaminated like that, it's very hard on the internals.
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We're still waiting for the mechanic to agree to look it over and diagnose it. But does it sound like it'd be a head gasket? It shakes a lot(like a quick paced vibration). I drained the oil, but it looked normal. There is just a milky liquid all over the oil filler neck and cap. It idles fine and never stalls on me. I'm hoping it's something else(something cheaper) because I wanted to use that money to buy my wife a new muffler and some lightning wheels/tires.
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From: MI
Originally Posted by gunz4life2
It shakes a lot(like a quick paced vibration). I drained the oil, but it looked normal. There is just a milky liquid all over the oil filler neck and cap. It idles fine and never stalls on me.
Originally Posted by gunz4life2
My wife's 98 f-150(4.6) started having a vibration at all RPM's(stationary and in motion). When we checked the oil, it was milky and had a yellowish tint to it(friends say it looks like a blown headgastket). appreciate any help or advice.
That means the vibration is most likley a completely different problem
Advice ? Let your wife explain the problem. Or someone else.
Last edited by jbrew; Jan 25, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
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From: Texas
Yeah, when we pulled the oil dipstick, we both thought it looked a little milky. After that I pulled the filler cap and found the white stuff. After some searching on here and reading, I see that it's normal to see that stuff under the cap.
LOL. Thanks for the advice. I appreciate the help. We sent the truck to a real mechanic to see what he thinks. I don't know anything about Fords at all, but I'm trying to learn. These newer motors look intimidating with all the wires and sensors and lines. I did a LS1(6.0) swap into my 82 Silverado, but I don't have the confidence to rip into this f-150.
LOL. Thanks for the advice. I appreciate the help. We sent the truck to a real mechanic to see what he thinks. I don't know anything about Fords at all, but I'm trying to learn. These newer motors look intimidating with all the wires and sensors and lines. I did a LS1(6.0) swap into my 82 Silverado, but I don't have the confidence to rip into this f-150.