In the process right now guys, and I am taking pictures as I go. Let me know if there are any specifics you want. 1-4 are done, in under an hour...This really isn't as bad as I thought, but I am doing the easy side first. About to put the COP's(with dielectric) on and button up the passenger side. Oh and to reference a post that Quintin made a long time ago, I was able to get a torque wrench on 3 and 4, without using a swivel attachment(something about paying good money to see it)....pics to follow...

 

Good luck. The only thing I will have to ask is, What mileage are you changing at and what were the reasons?

I have read alot about this subject, and, am looking to invest in a 5.4. I have come to the conclusion, that, if you change early (before FORD advises) you will have minimal problems.

Waiting for pics and thank you in advance for the help and courtasy!

 

id change them ever 20k and put anti seize on the threads every time.

 

Well, that was what I had determined on what "I WOULD DO IN THAT CASE".

But, I am curous to what turns out with the drivers side and the happenings thereafter.

I am still in the workings of determining if I should get a 5.4 or not. All of the info helps so much.

I am VERY greatful!!!

 

All done, just finished putting away the tools and took it for a test run. The drivers side was much harder, because there is more in the way. Number 8 is a pain to get at, but with some patience it wasn't all that bad. The truck has 120k on it and I have never changed the plugs nor the coils, so I figured I was about due. Plus I have had a bad idle issue, so I was trying to take care of that as well. While I was in there I sprayed the hell out of the MAF with electrical cleaner. So far the idle is a "bit" higher, but there is still a stumble while sitting in drive. I'm guessing it has to be a vacuum issue as I have pretty much checked everything, but I'll save that for a seperate post. The pictures will follow soon, have to clean myself up first. All in all probably took me 1 hour for the passenger side, 1h30min for the drivers side. I had never done this before on a 5.4, just relied on the forum and people that had posted in the past.

 

Good job - Your stumble. First ,after one drivecycle, you should be at 700 - 750 rpm @idle in park once warm.. If higher - it's leaking somewhere. Your stumble sounds like the EGR valve not closing all the way.. Tap on it first and liston for a change in idle. Then suck test it to make sure it's operating as it should.

 

Tap on the solenoid or the EGR itself? I didn't pull the elbow yet at the back otf the TB to check that. How easy should that be to get off? I disconnected the negative terminal from the truck when I did the plugs, when I got back in the truck I assumed everything would be "reset" but my radio stations were still there. Should I do the negative to positive tap to reset everything or is that not necessary?

 

I always disconnect both sides of the battery to reset the Keep Alive Memory (KAM) as well. Make sure you reconnect the positive first when hooking it back up.

Yea, Tap the EGR valve itself after she's warmed up and idling. Liston for a change in idle. The solenoid (EVR) usually isn't an issue. Also make sure your wiring harness didn't get pushed to close to the AC accumulator - that can really create problems with the ignition system and this could have been the reason for your stumble problem as well.

Yup!! #1 reason for a high idle is that elbow in the back that your PCV line runs into.

Lastly - suck test the EGR valve.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...=293714&page=2

 

I'll go test the EGR now if I can find some hose. The idle is generally low, just under 600 when in drive. Around 715 when in park. I'm also going to reset the memory , make it learn all over again. Question though, as I have an EDGE programmer, should I move that back to stock first?

 

Good job on not breaking any! What plugs did you put in? COPS?

I switched out the Brisk 3v that I put in last week with the Autolite HT1's. Couldn't get the idle fixed with the Brisk's.

 

Your profile indicates a 2000 5.4 which would be the 2V with normal plugs. Is this a 3V engine with the problem plugs?

 

Yea, set it back to stock first- rip it out of there and throw it in the trash - After that , disconnect the battery.. Reboot after 15 minutes and see what you got before and after the converters kick in...

 

So here are the pictures I remembered to take, once I got going, I kind of forgot about the camera....

The new COP's from Global


Bank 1 with the fuel rail out of the way


Bank 2 with everything in the way


Bank 2 much clearer!


continued...

 

WOW!! Where does your IAC tube connect to the intake at? It needs to be right in front of the TB above the breather tube. Or am I not seeing the whole picture here ?

 

Plug 6 was dirty and had some oil in it


Close up of plug 6


Everything Old


All back together!



Notes:
-Disconnected battery
-remove the fuel rails, it makes things so much easier
-used plenty of dielectric grease
-hand tightened very slowly on the new plugs
-used calibrated torque wrench to 96 in-lb
-patience is needed
-used a magnetic parts tray to hold all the bolts so as not to send them flying

Any questions, I have a few more pics, but mainly just more detail shots of what is there. Next weekend is the Thottle Body clean