No - that only means it went somewhere else - probably somewhere bad

Pale oil WILL burn & smoke - 100% of the time. Guaranteed. So - next time, if it doesn't smoke, reserve a bit and light it off . Ooooooo - shmooookie

 

I'de p^ss on a spark plug if it would do any good ..

Sorry wrong thread

 

Tried a can of it in my 5.8L with 127k miles, hoping it would help with a rough, loping idle. I couldn't get the brake booster line off the cylinder, so I just attached a piece of tubing to an empty zerk on the vacuum tree. Sucked it in, let it sit, started back up. Mega-smoke everywhere for a good 20 minutes. Not the slightest change in the idle, still lopes, but it does seem to have a little more pick-up to it.

Get a cleaning at the dealer is the same thing using some random chemical of their own, but they charge you $200 instead of $6.

However, I used the TransTune about a week before I changed my tranny oil and even before the oil was changed it shifted smoother. Put in new Valvoline Maxlife(couldn't find Amsoil fluid ANYWHERE) Merc fluid and now it shifts like new, so smooth you don't even feel it. E4OD tranny.

Isopropyl Alchohol is an old snowmobiler's trick when you inevitably get snow in the tank. You can buy a bottle of Heet for like $3 that treats a few gallons, or buy a bottle at Rite Aid for like $.50 that you just keep in your bags.

K-100 is my favorite additive. Working at a marina and dealing with people's old, *****ty, and neglected boat engines all day, K-100 works more often than not. If it didn't, it usually turned out something was mechanically wrong with it anyway. It's also awesome at getting rid of water issues, we go through a lot of it.

 

I used trans tune as well , glad to hear I didn't waste my money , my E40D shifts great..

 

Maybe, just maybe, the amount of gas in each vehicle was different, which would change the concentration of the Seafoam present in each tank for combustion ?

 

I use seafoam as a stabilizer in any fuel that I'm not going to use with in a month. IE before storing the boat over the winter etc.

I mix it at as close to 16 oz per every 20 gallons as I can. Thats only 1 oz seafoam for every 160 oz of fuel. 1:160 ratio.

Trust me the fuel you pump from the station likely has worse, more useless and more harmful crap for your engine than seafoam has in it and at a higher concentration than 1:160th.

For a fuel stabilizer and even a soft fuel restorer, I have not found anything better.
For a water displacer, I use a good ol bottle of straight Isopropyl Alcohol at about the same 1:160 more or less ratio, sometimes more sometimes less, I depending on the concentration of moisture, I don't measure exactly just a quick calculation a little but of guestimation and pour.
If a tank has sweated or otherwise has H2o moisture in it, and if I'm going to be treating it with Seafoam anyway, then I skip the Isopropyl.

I do run it in every tank of my Kawasaki 500 stand up Jet ski and run it a little heavier than 1:160, closer to 1:100. I pre-mix it when I mix the oil in the jug. But I ride it under water alot doing tricks and crashes. So the tank inevitably get water in it. The guy that owned it before me also ran it too. I've owned it for 3 seasons and even sunk it this year, yet you can look inside the cylinder with spark plugs removed and the pistons and rings and cylinder walls still look brand new. Still running the same spark plugs in it that were in it when I bought it 3 years ago. You can go out right now, hasn't been started in a month and a half, and with just a 1/4" squeeze of the throttle, no choke, it will fire off with the bump of the starter. (if the battery is charged.)

I've done the brake booster thing on the last 7 vehicles I've owned and have yet to see the smoke that everyone talks about.
My truck had 60K on it= no smoke
Wife Exploder had 150K+ = no smoke
Jeep had 210K = no smoke
Other explorer had 175K+= no smoke
Trans Am 98K = no smoke
S10 had 110K = no smoke
Berretta had 22K = no smoke

few things on that but is getting to long soo.....
To be continued......

 

Continued......

One I use my vehicles H.A.R.D. HARD, they rarely see partial throttle, as soon as I am ready to go it's atleast 3/4 throttle if not on the floor until the speed limit or a little past. When I pass someone, it's on the floor. They are all very familiar with 5K rpm.
With everything I own or have owned, minus the beretta and trans am, they offten tow stuff with them too, all to often they are over loaded, so are being worked hard as well.
Also I rarely "rev" my engines, if my rpms go up, I expect "aside from shifts", I expect to hold atleast 2500 rpm for a few minutes to get the cylinders warm enough before de-accelerating, that is what creates carbon deposits if the surfaces inside teh cylinder and catylitic converters "if applicable" are cold enough for it to solidify on them.

Those combined with hot spark, and good gas, carbon is not generally a problem in my vehicles at all.

The other main contribution is method of administration.
I have seen guys actualy stick a funnel in thier brake booster line and dump sea foam in or other cleaners in ....... NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! OMFG NO!

As Labnerd and MGD warned, hydro lock and cracked pistons are only a few of the less serious results that method is high risk to bringing.
I wouldn't do that with ANY liquid, even gasoline, you would run the same high level of the same risk to serious damages including grenading your engine.

The proper methods:

Method 1,
Brake Vaccum Line

1. Let engine warm up to operating temperature.
2. Open container and pour 5-1/3 oz into a container
3. With engine ideling remove brake vaccum line and seal with thumb.
4. Insert line into container just (1/8"-1/4") above the fluid surface.
5. With your hand (or have someone else) work the throttle and rev to about 2000-2500 rpm and hold it there. It will begin to suck it up.
6. When the fluid gets to low and it's no longer sucking, then you will hear the difference in the engine, move vaccum line back to 1/8-1/4" above the liquids surface again.

If sucking straight from the can:
Repeat steps 4 and 5 until 1/3 of a 16 oz can has been sucked up. (About 5 1/3 oz.)

____________________________________________

Method #2
Misting

1. Let engine warm up to operating temperature.
2. Pour 5-1/3 oz into spray bottle
3. Remove breather or snorkle
4. Rev engine to 2000-2500 rpm
5. spray, with a fine mist, directly into carburater or throttle body.

____________________________________________

Method three
PCV

1. Remove PCV from valve cover
2. Let engine warm up to operating temperature.
3. Place PCV 1/8"-1/4" above the fluid surface
4. rev to 2000-2500 rpm
5. When the fluid gets to low and it's no longer sucking, then you will hear the difference in the engine, move vaccum line back to 1/8-1/4" above the liquids surface again.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 until 1/3 of a 16 oz can has been sucked up. (About 5 1/3 oz.)

______________________________________

With any of these methods, there should not be any smoke.
As Labnerd mentioned, carbon does not smoke when it burns so if it smokes.... it's something besides carbon........


After each one, Let engine run for about 2-5 mins afterwards to suck anything that might get trapped in a line or creaves so it doesn't get sucked in to a cold engine later when you start it or when you may need the power to pass.

(I personally do one minute of idle, 30 seconds at 2K rpm.
Then 1 minute at idle, 30 seconds at 3K rpm
another 1-3 minutes at idle.)

 

I can't believe SeaFoam is such a bad product. Used as directed on the can, in your fuel tank, seems to be the best solution. I have recommended this product to many customers with no complaints and only good feedback. As a general rule, I use it in all my small engine powered equipment and have found it to be a savior. In most vehicles I have only used it in the tank as recommended by the manufacturer. No smoke, and great results. Putting anything down a line directly to your intake system does not seem to be a good idea. Use caution with any additives.

 

I have used SEA FOAM in the tank, and have had no problems. I have also used it as a cleaning agent rebuilding motors. Not in my F-150 though. I have learned, and some may disagree, that using a spray bottle with ATF, misting it in the TB will clean just as much as the MONKEY ****. I will do this to my own vehicles. Use any additives at your own risk! I also use HEET 2X a year. 1x when the weather gets cold, then, 1x halfway through the season. This is all IMO!

I had a friend that put the SEA FOAM, in his crank case! Well, wouldn't you know the motor now drinks 2 quarts of oit a week. LMAO! SUX TO BE HIM!

I TOLD HIM HE WAS CRAZY!

 

Your better off asking about the effects of Sea Foam at the dealerships and get the upper GI cleaning done thru Ford - Safer that way..

I beleive it's called the Motorvac Cleaning Service..

All you can do is tell them MGD - They prolly won't listen tho...To many post the wrong info and don't come back and report the after effects because they have know idea....[/QUOTE]


Go figure on this one.

About two years ago my truck blew out 2 injectors. The dealership replaced under warranty and suggested a Motorvac due to excessive carbon buildup. I let them do the motorvac, but I was furious about this (and the rear end on my wife's brand new explorer going out) so I demanded the regional rep call me to discuss this.

Well after giving him the business; letting him know I've owned nothing but fords and the two new trucks I presently owned sucked as far as I was concerned he made sure to tell me that FORD DOES NOT RECOMMEND PUTTING ANY CHEMICALS into your vehicle.

I asked if this was true, why a dealership would sell such services. He had no explanation.

Anyway I have had one since then; just wondering if anyone has ever heard this before?

Jr.