Yeah i'm going to go with neal here cuase i did 2 dyno runs in 2nd gear for data logging, and 1 in 3rd, the 2nd gear runs were slightly higher, just by like 5hp... actually I just looked at my old dyno charts, 2nd gear had 268hp, 318tq. 3rd gear had 265hp and 325tq

 

there is other variables u must consider first run usually the engine is cooler and makes more power. also shop temp. air temp so on so forth. i tried doing a 3rd gear run but it kicked down into 2nd as soon as i went into it. and the torque curve spiked down when it went into 2nd gear.

 

2nd gear run was first... 3rd gear was less than 1 minute after that

 

Faster,

How many hours did you spend on the dyno? Your tuner should know how to lock the tranny in third gear so it won't kick down into second. If he doesn't then I would not trust anything that he produces anyway. But you already knew that......

JMC

 

Still getting "pwned" I see.

Why don't you just have the engine dynoed and leave your transmission excuses out of it already.

I have to hand it to ya though, for a boy that gets beat down as bad as you do here, you continue to stick around and take more of it. I hope you have figured out why this happens as much as it does......

 

i think my trucks been on a dyno probably 8-9 hours for tunning the guy has had the dyno maybee a year and EFI tunning is new to him hes still learning how to use the software. hes a great guy and a long time friend of the family so he cut me a good deal on a tune. and i pretty much get the tune redone every month or so or put it back on the dyno if its acting weird to find out what it is.

 

yeh thats enough to make the difference with heat. i made 2 2nd gear passes one right after the other and the shop temp changed 26F and killed 18HP and 24ftlbs of toque. i could only imagine what it would do to 3rd when the fuel demand is at its greatest

 

i didnt know i was getting beaten. i guess things look different from the other side of the board eh

 

My point exactly.

Thanks!

 

Nothing because I Did 2 more 3rd gear runs and the same numbers.

 

HI!... Well if I use OFTEN WRONG 150's excuses......

I would of made more RWH.P due to :

- the dyno shop was around 95 degree's when I ran my truck.

- I made over 15 runs right after each other. ( 10 minute cool down in between only). BTW all my RWH.P #'s were almost exactly the same in all these runs.

- I had a basic tune.

- I was only running SUNOCO 94 octane. (no race fuel)

- it was cloudy out.

- a nun on a purple bicycle rode by during one of the runs.

- Madlock was airing a re-run during another run.

- I coughed during the 4TH run.

- I farted during the 9TH run.

- i believe someone in Mexico was having "surprise sex" during run 15. Not EXACTLY sure, but pretty sure.

- etc ans so on and so on............

 

WOW I want the 1/2 hour of my life back I just spent reading this
Where does one start.... We're arguing over dyno numbers that werent done in top gear, Lights and Time Slips that arent/werent available, and we're to believe a smaller cu in motor with less tq will make a heavier full chassis truck go faster

We all know a smaller cu in motors gives you less tq. and we all know you need tq to get a heavy vehicle down the street (or strip). And yes a light weight vehicle such as a uni-chassis Camaro or Mustang could take advantage of a little motor, (they dont need the tq). And we also all know those little motors would do nothing for a full chassis much heavier vehicle such as a truck, (as far as making them performance vehicles). And just like a V-10 wasnt meant to ref 8500 RPM or do the quarter in 11 sec's, you wouldnt take a tractor trailer 500 ft lb 6 cyl motor and put it in a race car and expect Lightning ET's. The bottom line is you need the correct combo of cu in, tq, and hp for "that vehicle" to get optimal performance


Over the last 30 years I have owned @ 80 Hi Performance Vehicles and @ 12 of them were Big Block 70 SS Chevelle's. (god I wish I kept a few #$(#$&)
Although many of them started out as a Small Blocks, some even LT-1's, "in every case I swapped them to 396's or 454's". Why ??? because a full weight full chassis Chevelle on the street with 4 people in it and the AC on needs much more torque than a small block will give you. I had SB Chevelle's that were very fast with just me in it but then fell on their face with 4 people in it, I would always take a 396/325 in a Chevelle rather than a 350/350

Although I think Ford Mod Motors have a lot to be desired I have owned many and there is NO DOUBT the 5.4 is the bigger and badder motor. I mean hell I loved the 32V Cobra Motor and ya it rev'd like a SOB, and the 4.6 ProCharged Stang GT I build last year was truly one of the most beautiful and fun vehicles I've ever built, but the bottom line neither one of those motors belong in a F-150 if your shooting for performance (cause you will need tq)

Ok I'm going to go now....

 

very well said

 

Yes, Thanks for the reality check Rob.

 

Yeah but Faster will still not agree with the above!!!!