I have an 04' f150 with the 4.6L.It has 75K on it. I was passing a car the other day when I heard a loud clacking sound so I immediately let off the throttle. After that the MIL came on. The truck runs very rough and knocks at <2000 rpms. I pulled the codes. P0106, P0171, P0172, P0174, P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0316. Some of these codes came up twice. Any ideas? Where is the BARO sensor? I looked in my manual and it does not mention a BARO sensor.

 

You might find this difficult to understand but many of the codes are cause and effect.
Since you have them recorded, I would clear them and run the engine again (if possible) to generate a new set that will be less confusing to use as the real indicator of the problem.
Example: code 171 and 172 are oppisite codes that usually don't exist for real at the same time.
The 300 series codes are all missfire codes so no mistery there. The question is are the 300 series codes due to some other fault? Yes. Clear the real cause and these go away.
I would bet that 171 and 172 won't be there at the same time.
171 is a lean code bank 1. 172 is a rich code for the same back. Can't have both conditions at the same time.
See which code are now present as a real indicator of the problem.
The 106 code i'm not sure about.
Code 300 is a missfire detected at start up.
Something suggest to me, a semi major cam drive/cylinder event has occurred by the codes that you give, the noise etc. A cam position sensor that can't track the cam position any longer plays hell with ignition timing. Hint!
Good luck..

 

The main code seems to be P0106. (BARO sensor). I cannot find the BARO sensor. Where is it at?

 

Nevermind about the BARO sensor. I found out there isn't one.

"Something suggest to me, a semi major cam drive/cylinder event has occurred by the codes that you give, the noise etc. A cam position sensor that can't track the cam position any longer plays hell with ignition timing. Hint!
Good luck.."

Are you suggesting I should be looking at the Cam Position Sensor or at the Timing marks to see if they line up? Can the CPS be tested?

 

I'd say it's pretty unlikely that the P0106 is a MAIN code..... A BARO sensor is used only to slightly adjust mixture to compensate for altitude.

On many of the newer Fords, the BARO sensor is an integral part of the MAF sensor, not a separate unit. I haven't looked at the 04 docs (don't have them here this evening), but I suggest this as likely.

You really need to run a KOER PCM Quick Test (On-demand self-test) if your scanner supports it.

Steve

 

I don't think it's a CPS but something happened to the cam drive, hence the noise.
The only way is to investigate.
The CPS privides the fuel injection timing relitive to the cam/valve positions.
If the cam drive has a problem, no fuel etc. That leads to missing/poor running and noise if there is a mechanical fault.
This is just theory now from what you discribe and from the codes.
I hope i'm wrong and it's much less that that.
The CPS just bolts into the front left head so easy to get at but there would be a code for it if it failed.
The ignition is triggered by the crank sensor.
You can see that a problem with either will result in poor running.
I was sure there was no Baro sensor in these engines but there may be on other designs hence the code. Why it got stored I don't know at this time.
The PCM has a lot of codes in program that are not always used in every application but are still there.

 

UPDATE!

I took the truck to a shop. Here is there findings;

I broke a valve spring. The valve stuck open and knocked a hole in the piston. He recommended a re-manufactured motor for $3300.00. Total with labor around $6000.00. Does anyone know where to get a motor for less? Maybe I should just build a stroker! Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Wow, $6k for that, got to be a cheaper option

 

As usual the shop's techies are lazy and would rather swap in a whole new motor than tear apart and fix the existing one. Not to mention $6000 for a reman motor is certianly no bargain.

If the ONLY problem that occurred as a result of the busted spring is the hole in the piston and a screwed up valve, it seems a little foolish to junk the whole motor. However, rarely does something like happen and not have a "ripple effect" causing other potentially serious issues.

If you're up for a job and want to save some money, consider doing the swap yourself. Locate a motor in a junkyard, buy it for a couple hundred $$ and go from there. If you have a mechanic buddy you can offer him $500 to install it for you, since he's your buddy and all. Either way, you'll save big time over paying the stealership nearly $2k in labor charges.

 

lets put the bottom end rebuild this way.
crank $300
Bearings, rods, pistons $1300 all forged and race bearings.

now the heads. you can try to salvage yours if your seat and chamber are in good shape. if not. you can probably find a set of heads for uhm $300 area.

 

I find it alittle hard to believe a valve spring broke. I don't think your using high lift cams or HD valve springs turning mega rpms. I'd asked to see that spring and if it's true what cheap supplier is out there now with valve springs.

 

Well the spring did break. I was wondering the same thing. They must be cheap springs or this one was defective.

 

no more warranty??

 

Lazy? No. Smart? Yes. They install an FQR long block, so the customer now gets a 3 year/75,000 mile warranty instead of a 12/12 warranty (if that) when the engine is repaired. And should something blow up in the reman long block later, it's FQR's problem, not the installer's. It's called liability - look into it.

If there's piston damage, chances are there's metal floating around in the cylinder, possibly damaging the cylinder walls. And what's in the cylinder eventually makes it to the crankcase, which can affect other cylinders and the valvetrain. With a catastrophic failure (and yes, a piston making sweet love to a hanging valve counts as a catastrophic failure) like the OP had, it'd be easier and faster for any shop to dump a reman long block in it and roll.

 

Dealership is going to do it for $5100.00, 3/75000 mile warranty and a loaner car.