It would have only taken about 2 hours (first time doing a plug change on one of these) however, I managed to loose an injector o-ring and had to wait for my fiance to come home so I could take her car to the dealership for a pack of 10 o-rings at $17!!!!

I actually expected to see more carbon, they almost look a bit lean. All in all the truck ran quite well considering the condition of these things!





I think I could probably do the whole thing over again in less than an hour, for those of you who do this without removing the fuel rail (as I started to try first) WHY?? its two bolts and a tiny bit of fuel and you have access galore!! I recommend to anyone doing this just to remove everything you can first, it will save more time than you think (as long as you don't loose an o-ring) I found it especially helpfull to remove the top EGR nut and bend the egr tube slightly away to allow the fuel rail to come up and out of the way, it took a whole 2 minutes and allowed for complete access.

I installed with NO antisieze and torqued as accuratly as possible, its hard to be for certain on #4. Truck runs like a champ, much smoother than ever before. I'm sure I might even see .5-1 mpg increase as well (crossing fingers)

Later

Josh

 

did you check the gap?

 

Why did you specifically not use anti-seize?

 

On the old plugs or on the new ones?

The old ones had opened up to about .058-.059

The new ones I gapped at .054

Well, it was kind of an impulse judgement call, I wanted to make sure the torque was right, and the torque spec's are stated for a dry install, I didn't exactly know how much to compensate if I did use antiseize. In hindsight, I probably should have LIGHTLY coated the threads, but I'm not concerned about it right now. I plan on replacing the coil boots, so when I go back to do that, I'll probably pull the plugs. This will also allow me to see how the truck is running (read the plugs), I can then put a small amount of antisieze on them.

Josh

 

I hope you realize anti seize is used at the factory and that it has been used as a sealer - thats why it's in the manual - its not used for keeping the plugs extractable . It 's an important part of the procedure because seals the air gap in the expandable aluminum heads . It also helps preventing them from coming loose. Your a fool not to use and I bet thats why your plugs are white almost guarentee it..

You coat the threads 2nd up from the bottom then wpe the threads lightly w/paper towel or rag in a crcular motion before install..Hell my plugs would be flying out of there without that stuff - do em right...

As plugs age the electrode deterioates - they don't "open up" gap increase as the electrode wares..

 

Yea, I should probably do mine soon. got 154k on her and I highly doubt they were ever done...

 

LOL, you are so dramatic, I respect your input on this forum as you seem to have a lot of experience with these trucks, but if you re-read my last statement you will see that I do indeed plan on going back and putting some anti-sieze on the threads, however there will NOT be catastrophic plug/head failure in the next 5000 miles or so until I have time to get to it!

Reading through the Factory CD service manual, there is no mention of using antiseize on the plugs, Check section 303-07B Revision date 3-23-03.
I'm not saying that its a good or bad Idea, just simply stating whats in the FSM.

As for why the plugs look the way they do, it likely has nothing to do with antisieze being that these are the original plugs, first time removed.

Do you make it a point to talk down to people? or am I just reading you wrong? I understand its a wearing of the electrode, I guess I'm not allowed to use lehmans terms around here?!

Josh

 

Yeah I did read your bullsh^t and thats what it is.. Not worried , some people are affraid to learn - part of your learning curve is to go jump up and down in a corner and stomp your feet ..

There enough people on here who no how to do it right - It's not a matter of dramatics on my end anyway lol - what a jokster..

I 'm not talking down , just the facts and you got them wrong - go find a corner ..

BTW - NOPE , not the CD - if you have the CD they may not have put it in there because Anti - Sieze is basic procedure on all aluminum heads , they prolly figure since mechanics where the only ones who had the cd's in the past , that you already new this.. Soooo, they just put it in the Chiltons and Hanyes books - for the do it your selfers ..

Update - Anti Sieze aplications is in the notes on my CD's too.. You must have some sh^t CD's lol

 

Holy crap, What bullsh't are you refering to? I don't think I contradicted anything you said..... in fact I believe I agreed with you, however I just stated what I read directly from the FSM. That is refusal to learn? who's the one stomping feet?
I never stated the way I did it was right or wrong. Yes the dramatics are on your end

WTH? You're right, it must be me.....?

 

Glad you finally woke up -

Best bet is to do a search within these forums - Matts got a posting in the tech section that spells it out pretty good.

Use anti- sieze , trust me..

 

So, to reiterate

I installed the plugs without antisieze because the FSM Cd's THAT I HAVE (revision date 3-23-03) don't make any mention of using it, or at least I don't see it, and because it drastically changes the torque values, I didn't want to overtorque the plugs because of the antis and cause damage to the alum head.

I also stated that I will be going back and lightly coating the threads when I replace the COP boots. However running the plugs as is for a few thousand miles will NOT cause plug/head damage until I have time to remove and coat the threads.

I'm sorry for those that had to see the pissing match between JBrew and Myself, if I was able to us the PM function, we could have resolved this in a more descrete manor.

JBrew, as I stated FIRST THING in my original response to you, I respect your input on this forum, as I have read a lot of your posts and most are very informational. However, I am NOT one to be talked down to and take serious offense to it. I never ONCE talked down to you or said you were wrong, and would appreciate you TEACHING rather than TELLING and assuming that you are better than us common folk!


Man, WTH?? Just as I am ready to submit this I scroll through and see you post another statement like this, if you read through this whole thread, you'd I was never "asleep". I simply stated what I had done, and why. This is what I mean about talking down to people....I'm done.

 

It doesn't change torque values - The heads/plugs are designed to meet with a recessed taper. Torque values remain the same .. Just look at the plug where it meets the head..

I'm done picking you apart , that's to easy..

Just follow procedure in the tech articals within this forum, or PM me and I'll send you mine. I'll help anyone who doesn't get off on dictating and asks questions first....If you dictate make sure your right..

 

WTH??? I see, you just can't help it......

At what point was I dictating anything?

So, for a question, if torque is not affected by lubricants, why is it that in many service manuals I see, there is a different torque value for a lubed fastener and a dry fastener (particularly head bolts come to mind)? Is the sparkplug different for some reason? Please explain, this is a serious question I have, and i would just like to know. I understand about the taper, and where it seals to the head, but having antiseize on the threads would still allow the sparkplug to be over torqued wouldn't it? OR, is the 13ftlb actually the corrected torque for use with a lubricant/antiseize?

 

No your reading right, sort of , just understanding wrong .. For anti - sieze is marginal as being a lubricant. It contains "FLAKE" - Copper and Nickel properties that work awesome when the heads expand due to being exposed to high temperatures ..Just think about it ..

I thought you said you were done?

Sucks helping this way .

 

Thank you, now that makes sense to me, its not as if you put oil or a moly lube on the threads then.

c'mon now, like there's even a choice, I think we can both agree that neither of us would walk away without our pride

We're gettin' there

Later

Josh