Well said!

A lot of people (not all) on here have 25K, 30k, 40K, or 50K trucks plus potentially $1000's in mods, and you are debating cost of motor oil? I don't get it. Synthetic has been proven time and time again to be better in many ways owed mostly to advancements in technology.

I look at this way. My first computer I built out of the best components available back in 1997; Intel Pentium 200MHZ MMX processor, a 6gb Quantum Big Foot hard drive, 256 mb of RAM and Windows 95 vB. I surfed the internet, typed up documents, sent and recieved email, I downloaded the first MP3s I ever had w/ that machine, even played video games, and accepted an ISDN line - it worked perfectly for what I used it for. AHHH...but times they have changed. I just finished building a new machine in a long line of previous incarnations; AMD Athlon 64 FX-57 2.8GHZ, a 500gb SATA hard drive, 3gb DDR RAM, my Nvidia video card has 512mb of RAM, and I just downloaded Windows Vista beta. A huge, huge advancement in technology and you know what I do this new piece of the future? Basically the same
$h!+ I did w/ my first computer; just more, better, and faster.

Oil is oil and computers are computers they do what they are designed to do, but some do the same thing so much better.

Synthetic for me thanks!

 

hell, my buddy is running that Valuecraft stuff from Autozone in his 4.3 Xtreme. 2800 miles on the oil and the stuff looks like it is fresh oil, and he beats the **** out of the engine

 

If you change your oil every 5,000 miles - 7 quarts a change - $5 a quart, that's $700 for every 100,000 miles. Versus $280 for dino. That's a savings of $840 over the typical (non oil burning) lifespan (200,000 miles) of your truck. not too bad....

Here's where it gets expensive.... If you use the $8 a quart amsoil, and a $20 oil filter, changing your oil every 3,000 miles, that's gonna cost ya $5,066 over 200,000 miles. Versus $360 using Napa oil and John Deere filters! Now, assuming that your engine DOES blow up at 200,000 miles, you'll get a free new one with the money you saved!

Bottom line, You won't keep your truck for 300,000 miles. Hardly anybody does, cause the rest of the truck will be a piece of crap by the time it reaches it. So thinking that the synth will save you a rebuild is not likely, even if it does work. Most engines don't break, unless you dog your truck REALLY hard. Or you just happen to get a bad motor. In which case, the synth wouldn't have helped anyway.

So, if it makes you feel better to use synthetic oil, that's nice. I can relate, cause it makes me feel better to use the cheaper stuff.

 

This is by NO MEANS an attack on you. I am excited, and eagerly awaiting a response. YOU are the only person I have ever heard with a "sludge problem". PLEASE enlighten me as to your problem, and what damagae resulted (if any), and what the chrystler place said and did, etc. Did it quit running, or overheat, or lock up? No offence intended, I just really want to know.

See, I base all my opinions on my life's experiences, and I respect anybody that says, " I had a problem with my ______" or "my _____ was a piece of crap, don't buy one"

On our farm, we currently have 9 pickup trucks. 8 of them are over 100,000 miles. 7 of them are over 150,000. And 3 are at, or over 200,000. They all run fine, and have never had an oil related engine problem.

I can't even count the total number of engines we've had in my lifetime. Probably upwards of 100, and only 1 had a serious mechanical failure. (spun a main bearing) But it was a worn out old tractor engine (late 60's) that was turned up to high horsepower.

I just wanted ya'll to know where I come from when I say that dino oil works fine. That's the reason I believe it. If you have an engine that blew, and you think it's a result of dino, I respect that. And, if you would, please share it with us. You might just change some minds....

 

My numbers are correct for me. I use 6 quarts of Mobil1 per change at $5 per quart, and a motorcraft filter same as I would if I was using dino-oil.

I never said it was likely saving me a rebuild. My mind-set is the exact opposite: If it does NOTHING whatsoever, I've only wasted $360 per 100k miles. I've invested a lot more money in a lot less useful endeavors. $360 is cheap insurance in my book. Right or wrong, it's what lets me sleep well at night knowing I've made a sound investment.

We're all waaay off topic though. The original question wasn't "Is it a sound investment?" the question was, "Will it HURT?" That answer is still a resounding NO.

-Joe

 

I am an active member of about 6 car/truck related forums. And you guys on here are the worst for oil discussion. Every week there is some new oil debate. Just freaking buy whatever oil you feel is comfortable, change it often and your motor will be fine

 

And if you extend your interval to 7500 or even more you will be saving money instead of spending the extra $360. The oil I use can go as long as 35K. I do not do that however. I change it between 12-15K. If I had a dual filter setup with the bypass filter I would use OA and extend my intervals up to the point OA tells me it is bad. Unfortunately I have not had the time or spare money to install the unit. My kids take care of both.
Bottom line synthetic is better without question but if you are not extending your intervals then you are wasting your money. Many people drain away good oil. If you are stuck on 3k intervals just buy the cheapest quality oil you find locally that meets the specs in your manual.

 

Did not want to start a war just wanted what was best for my truck forget the cost i went with Moble1 5W30 and a wix filter thanks

 

exactly what I use, 2 great products!