Havoline 5W30 and a FRAM PH2 every 3G's. Oil still has life to it when I change it too.. But since I'm working at Ford now, I'm sure I'll be using the Motorcraft filter and oil

 

I was told not to use fram said they dont have a antdrain in them i am guess i will go with Mobil1 5W30 and Motorcraft filter for now.

 

Fram filters are crap. When it comes to filters use OEM. I once saw a page posted about a guy who cut most oil filters in half. The conclusion was OEM is best followed by WIX then down the line from there. If memory serves Fram uses a cardboard anti drain back valve that does not even work.

The bottom line is can you get 200k out of a motor with a Dino oil? YES. Is synthetic still a better oil? YES. People can keep doing the same thing for years and it might work, but that it not to say something better does not exist. If you work your truck hard than go with synth, if you baby it or it is just a basic daily driver than go with dino it will be more than enough

 

Using synthetic oil is just throwing your money to the wind. All these people that say it's so great, why don't you just switch to dino. You'll see how great it is when nothing changes, and your truck lasts 300,000 miles. It just doesn't make any difference.

And all this hoo-rah about filters is getting silly. Nobody's truck ever died because of a fram filter!

All you fellas (and gals) gotta think about all the kids that come on this site. They soak up everything ya'll say and take it to heart. Telling them that they need a K&N air filter, tranny cooler, synthetic oil, and high performance blinker fluid to pull a boat......

 

Ford has a spec. As long as the oil meets that spec, there's no reason the truck shouldn't go 100k easily, 200k isn't unreasonable, and 300k isn't unheard of.

The original question was, will it be OK to switch? The answer is yes, it will be OK to switch. Whether or not it's recommended, necessary, a good idea, a bad idea, whether you should extend the oil change intervals, or whether it's a waste of money is an entirely separate discussion for a different thread, and like arseholes, everyone has an opinion for all kinds of different reasons.

The bottom line is, use whatever lets you sleep well at night. If it's Mobil-1 5W-30 and a Motorcraft filter as the original post asked, that will work just fine.

-Joe

 

I am worred it is knocking at startup till it warmes up that is y i was going to use mobil1 to see if it helped only had it 3 weeks and like it a lot.

 

You don't know what you're talking about do you? Do you have ANY idea what could happen to your truck if you don't take your blinker fluid VERY seriously? Let me tell you, it's a bad scene. Real bad.

 

Blinker fluid is nowhere near as critical as your halogen headlight fluid (you know, the stuff that turns the headlights blue on the new cars...). Let that stuff get low, and you take a chance of the lights cutting out after dark... Could cause a major accident, all that driving around after dark.

FWIW, I've also found that most parts stores keep that stuff on the shelf next to the solar powered flashlights and the cordless extension cords....

-Joe

 

i use what mechanics recomend. they had to study oils in school and they see what engines look like from using certain oils. there is no doubt that mobil1 is one of the best out there. Any oil that keeps the engine clean is going to be good. personally i use trop artic in my truck. Based on several mechanics experiences it comes highly recomended. and yes, the type of filter does matter. if the thing does not filter ou the dirt and grime, than what is the point of the filter. bottom line is, dont cheap out on good oil and filters, they are not that much more expensive and they will ensure the longevity of your truck/car.

 

Take the time to read this.

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

And synthetic oil is not a waste of money, it is a oil with more consistent molecular structure that keeps a larger percentage of oil from burning off and keeps a larger percentage into the smaller areas of the motor. It also has more detergents and therefore keeps the motor cleaner. On my old dodge we had alot of sludge problems with the 3.7 and 4.7 motors. People started running mobile 1 to avoid the sludging and those using mobile one stopped having problems. Those using dino still seemed to be having quite a few problems. Just because you dont believe it is a better product or you personally cant not see or feel the difference does not mean its true. Buy a oil anaysis and run dino for 3k and send it in then run a synth for 3k and send it in. I have done this so I know their is a difference. This is by no means a personal attack on here, just me standing behind my previous statments.

**edit** notice the only 4 filters not reccomended are made by fram?

 

I agree with Chester.

For most people, dino oil will be just fine. And dodges sludging up with dyno, WELL WHAT DO YOU EXPECT?!?!?! IT'S A DODGE! it's common sense that they need the 5$ a quart oil just to keep runnin. Anyways, don't listen to this B.S. that you NEED synthetic. It's pretty much useless. And as Chester has stated before, "if there is a film on your rockers and such, who cares?" very true. it doesn't matter. I myself have used expensive synthetic oil and the cheapest dyno oils which i'm using right now. The ONLY difference i've noticed so far is the price. My advice to everyone using synthetic is this: GROW A BRAIN AND SAVE SOME MONEY!! Dino oil doesn't have more "sand" or what ever you want to call it in it. It's just oil that isn't as good as synthetic and won't stand up to as high of temperatures. But then again, do our engines ever see those high temps on a regular basis? No. The gains from synthetic do not make enough of a gain in money saved to justify the costs.

 

So you knock my previous vehicle and my intelligence then list nothing to back up your opinions.
And who said he "needed" synth?

 

Scott i wanted the best for my truck i got Mobil1 5W30 Wix filter thanks.

Narvous

 

True, changing the oil every 3 or 5k miles, you won't see the benefits of synthetics. However, there's a member over on www.4x4central.com that is running Amsoil full synthetic and an Amsoil bypass filter in addition to the factory filter. He did periodic filter changes as suggested by Amsoil, and sent oil samples in periodically for evaluation. Last I saw the oil was still very usable at 40,000 miles, although some of the contaminant levels were on the high side of the OK range.

There are some who willa rgue that there is no benefit to synthetic. The fact of the matter is that synthetic oil IS superior to dino oil in a number of different ways. Is there a significant cost savings over dino oil, and is it enough to justify the extra cost when compared to a conventional oil? Probably not. Do I use it anyways? Yes.

I look at it this way: Dino oil costs $2 a quart for anything decent. Good synthetic costs $5 per quart. Changing it every 5000 miles, I'll do 20 oil changes on it, and use 120 quarts of oil. If I use synthetic, it's going to cost me an extra $360 every hundred thousand miles to use synthetic. If I keep the truck for 300,000 miles, and the extra money does absolutely nothing, it's cost me $1080 over the life of the truck. If that $1080 saves me an engine rebuild to the tune of $4000, I think it may just be worth it.

-Joe

 

So do they have a book that talks about Penzoil compared to Mobil compared to Rotella and so on? I never realized that mechanics studied oil.

You guys are all wrong anyways, if you were smart you would just put in six quarts of Slick-50 and just change it every 50k. Don't you remember that infomercial? You can drain all your coolant soak your engine in water and nothing bad will happen. After 5 rebuilds in 5 months it's all I swear by.