My coolant ran out of my radiator. The radiator developed small holes and rotted out. It is only a 1997

Anyway, the engine guage never showed a problem, I only knew there was a problem when the engine started knocking.

The engine does not knock at this time. The mechanic did a "chemical anyalis test", mentioned it was a yellow liquid that would show any kind of head damage. It passed.

Question: Is this test reliable. The engine never quit, just the pistons knocked. Think I did enough damage to get rid of this motor? What tell-tell signs should I look for after I have run it awhile.

Thanks

 

Hi BSA,

You took it to a mechanic so I assume it's got new oil/filter etc. Did they change the transmission fluid? I'd do that too if the engine overheated. Also is this a 4.2? If so I'd change the upper intake gasket.

Did you not notice the oil pressure gauge drop? You should have. I'm not sure how to test the guages but I'd make certian they are operating correctly.

Why would you get rid of the motor now? I'd say don't take any long trips for a 1000 miles and see how it goes. Make sure your gauges work then watch the temp guage and the oil pressure guage. I sure wouldn't throw away a motor that's running.

Just my .02

 

the guy who does burn out competition overheats his motor once a week and its got 140+K on it and its an 01 supercrew. 4.6L lol hes an idiot but that motor still holds together.

 

If the engine runs fine now, stick with it.

 

thanks for the advise. I will definitly change the fluids. this is a 3.0 six. Nope never gave me any indications on the guages. I didnt really run it that far with the knock.

Thanks a bunc

 

I take it if you have a 3.0 then it is a Ranger not an F-150.

If everything is fine I would keep it going until it really breaks. The factory Ford gauges are crap compared to say a GM setup so I am not surprised you didn't notice a fluctuation. I would on the other hand have it checked as if you ran the cooling system dry it should have made the gauge go all the way to hot. Might be a bad coolant temp. sensor. that kept the gauge from showing it. I am curious as to how you didn't smell it though. Heated coolant has a very distinct odor and I know everytime I had a leak I smelled it long before it could have drained the system.

 

The engine has a cylinder head temperature sensor that should have shut down the full engine operation by cutting fuel to cylinders and allowing it too pump only air for cooling over a limited time until the driver knows there is a problem and stops the engine. Cel lamp should have come on and would tell what the major problem was if read right away.
The knock sensor could also react to this situation by retarding timing.
This is all an attempt to prevent full combustion temperatures from seizing pistons to the walls and running dry of lube from the rings as picked up by the crank oil slinging.
Anyone that continues to try to run an engine after these events occurr and the engine all but stops pulling deserves the consequences.

 

Thanks guys. Acutally it's a 97 Taurus 3.0. Thank goodness it was not my beloved f150.

Is all the safety features that bluegrass mentioned on the 1997 taurus?

The coolant leak had to be sudden, it gave me no indication what so ever in leaks or smells. I really try to watch for stuff like that.


thanks

 

If the engine overheats, big deal. You're not likely to do much damage. Have it cleaned out, change the plugs, fix the problem that caused it to overheat, and move on. Engines don't spontaneously overheat if there is an adequate cooling system. If this was a late model Chevy I'd tell you to ditch it because I've seen many cases of one overheating incidence causing massive problems that were not detected until about 5,000 miles down the road. These engines are much better built from what I've personally experienced.