What do you guys say about these oil flush liquids you buy at the store and put into your truck and then run for 5-15 minutes and then change the oil?
I have a 2004 F150 4.6 V8 Heritage using Mobil1 Full Syn 0-20w and Mobil1 Oil Filter changed every 3,000. I have 13,198 on it now and at 15,000 want to know if I should flush it with this stuff. I have used 0-20w Mobil1 since 1st oil change. I also want to know what you guys think about going up to 5,000 for oil change intervals as the warranty says. However my dealership gives me another story.

I love you guys long time. Love the site. And all the info. Yes I used the search option but no real answer about this "flush in a bottle"

Stephen

 

I would never use anything to flush the oil. You put the oil in there to lubricate. The oil companies have provided what you need to do that, including additives. You want the proper amount of lubricant on the cylinder walls. If I had an engine with a lot of miles that is starting to burn oil, then I might use a heavier oil to slow the useage.

 

Never use this crap. My brother tried some thing like you are mentioning in his old chevy. That stuff cleaned the engine alright, it removed carbon that was better off left alone (like behind the piston rings) the engine used oil and smoked very badly after this cleaning. The engine was ruined. Low milage engines like yours do not need cleaning -----just change oil and filter every 3,000 miles

 

Dont use that crap. Regular oil changes will keep your engine clean.

 

It all depends on the stuff you use. Surely, we all know that a miracle in a bottle is a rare item, if ever. The oil cleaners sold retail to John Q Public are basically detergents designed to break apart deposits that form inside your engine related to the oil. In general, a vehicle with less than 15K miles that has had the oil changed every 3000 miles with synthetic should not, er would not need this done. As a matter of a fact, synthetic oil will prevent you from ever needing to do this, as it does not break down like conventionals therefore you won't have such deposits when sticking to synthetic. There are some higher quality agents that work well for abused engines, but they are not cost effective for your regualr joe and require a machine apparatus to use. As for going to 5000 miles, its is done quite frequently by many people. I personally run synthetic and change it at 3000 as well, and have never had a single engine oil related problem in any of the zillion cars I have had. I don't see it hurting anything if you do, the only thing I would be concerned with is that you're running 0w30. That 0 is thin as water, and will break down quickly in summer heat. If nothing else, I'd change at 5000 in the winter, and 3000 in the summer (hotter) months

 

By running a full synthetic oil since the truck was new at very short 3000 mile OCI's, I so no reason whatsoever that you would need to "flush" your engine. In fact, if you keep this same oil change regimen up for the life of the truck, there should be no reason to ever have to use a "motor flush" product.

 

Yes, I echo what ddellwo said, I'll even go so far as to say the same thing at 5000 miles with mobil 1, your truck will wear out befor the motor.

 

Ditto what ddellwo said.
I have personally seen the results of how Mobil 1 cleans away varnish and deposits left behind from running dino oil. Mobil 1 acts like a solvent as it is. No flushing agent needed.

 

I wouldn't even use it in the 66 that was used and abused as a farm truck.

Adrianspeeder

 

I would go to 5000k miles between changes and don't worry about the 0W-20, It is 20W at operating temps and will not break down in summer. You do not need to flush your engine. It is clean.
98Navi is right there are no miracles in a bottle.

 

Nope, don't do it.

 

So wait what is this about 0W-20?
And should I switch to 5w-20 I was looking on Mobil1 site and they have discontinued that product.

 

The 0W-20 that you are using is fine. Are they really discontinuing the 5W-20? I hadn't heard that.

 

Do not use any of the "quicky" oil flushes. They are a solvent based viscosity reducer and will strip an engine usually resulting in damage of some form. Noting that you are using a PAO/ester based oil, you shouldn't need a flush.

Just a heads up for you, the Mobil One that you are using in 0w-20 as well as the 5w-20 has a HT/HS rating of 2.6 which is absolute minimum to make grade. I would suggest that if you want to stay with Mobil products to use the 5-30 as it is a thin 30 and will shear to a thick 20. Most of the dino oils in this 930 specification will have HT/HS ratings of 2.8 or better. The 2.8 is considered a requirement for normal wear and the higher the better. FWIW, Redline in 5w-20 is at 3.3 and is at the top of the game. Havoline will be at 2.85 and is considerably cheaper. Even using a dino oil, you can easily run 5,000 mile OCIs. The Triton engines are not hard on oil at all and analysis shows that most can easily run 8,000 miles on any 930 speced oil. Your truck-your money.

 

Stick to the 3000 mile changes, forget the flush crap