97 f150 heater core
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#3
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
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Re: 97 f150 heater core
Originally posted by fish337
Hi, today my my ac vents were blowing smoke (steam) it had antifreeze smell bad. So I figuired it is the heater core (127000 miles) I will do it myself so any input will be greatly appreciated, alot of work I here. Thanks, fish337
Hi, today my my ac vents were blowing smoke (steam) it had antifreeze smell bad. So I figuired it is the heater core (127000 miles) I will do it myself so any input will be greatly appreciated, alot of work I here. Thanks, fish337
Steve
#4
Ford should realize heater cores do go bad, and make them easier to get at ( worst one I ever changed). Thanks to the member who said cut off the old heater core lines then pull out to to disconnect the quick realease hoses. Job took alot of paitence (10 hrs +++) and and studing to take apart, and hoping you could get back together, only had 6 screws left including the one I didn't put back in behind the instument panel. But now that it is finished I will soon forget about it. Great site
Thanks, fish337
Thanks, fish337
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#6
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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Grounding the heater core is the worse thing you could do to it. All it will do is create a path for the electrical buildup to follow. Find the source of the electrolysis and eliminate it. Removing the instrument panel is not difficult if you have all the tools. It takes time and a goodshop manual. I have replaced 3 cores and this last one is a copper one. The heater hoses are a clip on style and they can be difficult to remove. Here is a Pic of the clip.
There arte 2 rubber O rings and a nylon spacer that must be reinstalled or it will leak. The top part is the clip that is on the heater core pipe and it must be conpressed to allow the removal of the hose. You do not need to evacuate the A/C system so if you bring it to a shop that says you do run away.
JMC
There arte 2 rubber O rings and a nylon spacer that must be reinstalled or it will leak. The top part is the clip that is on the heater core pipe and it must be conpressed to allow the removal of the hose. You do not need to evacuate the A/C system so if you bring it to a shop that says you do run away.
JMC
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#8
It's a fairly time consuming job, along with alot of tedious work. Get ready!!! It's took me about 14 hrs. Probably could do it in about 8 or 9 now(since I've done it before). If I recall correctly the Ford dealership in town wanted $400 in labor. I did it for about $130 and 14 or so hours. If I had it to do again, it would go to the dealership. I had one screw left at the end of the job (out of about a hundred). You'll have to take off the plastic covers and oh**** handles on each side of your cab. Here's the list of other take offs that I remember (I know I'll forget some). Door step panels, kick panels under dash on passenger and drivers side, fuse panel, e-brake and bracket, steering column and protection cage, guage cluster, all the middle dash contols and panels, passenger side airbag system, glove box, entire dash shell (not removed, just loose), heater core cabinet (top half), heater hoses (you have to depress the plastic locking tabs on each side of both hoses) to make it simple- everything that is in front of you when you're sitting in the front seat. Also, you can't split the wiring harness (no coupling or connection), so, you'll have to work everything reaching over the dash shell and down behind the tubular cab frame. It ain't fun, but, once you do it you can say you've changed one of the worst. I'm sure there are some things I'm forgetting (did mine about 2 yrs ago), but this will give you somewhat
#9
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Blue,
Read this;
http://members.shaw.ca/autocheck/electrolosis.htm
Under the heading Static Charges: A Second Cause of Electrolysis fourth paragraph. After reading that I no longer ground the rad or the heater core.
JMC
Read this;
http://members.shaw.ca/autocheck/electrolosis.htm
Under the heading Static Charges: A Second Cause of Electrolysis fourth paragraph. After reading that I no longer ground the rad or the heater core.
JMC
#10
Very good article.It does make you wonder about the ground strap procedure.I have never had to ground a core or a radiator.But I do check my antifreeze often with a meter to make sure it is under control.Been doing this for a few years now.Also,if you ever read the post' about people with leaking heater cores,you notice that they have added electrical mods of some sort of another.Put 2 and 2 together; improper grounding of that mod?