something to ponder...............oil cleaner in engine=loosened sludge, and deposits. which equals clogged oil pump pick up. try to get the msds for this stuff. does it contain chlorine which rots metal? also introducing a large amount of liquid into a running engine could bend a connecting rod, try a smaller vacum line finally beware it could also harm your convertor. just my 2 cents from a "mechanic in a can" skeptic

 

I too was a skeptic, but then I tried it and wow. I have been a shade tree mechanic for 30+ years and there was a significant improvement in the way my truck ran after the treatment.
I always use top lube/injector cleaner and prefer Lucas products myself so I do the preventative stuff. There is just some carbon that will build up no matter what and this stuff does seem to get it off.

That reminds me, time for another treatment.

I do advise the use of an adaptor and administer it slowly. If you just pour this stuff into the intake of a running engine then Hydro-lock is a very real possibility; that will be the end of your engine as you know it.

 

SeaFoam MSDS.pdf

Now to my Question.

I'm looking at a can of SeaFoam right now and it mentions to pour it in to an "Direct manifold vacuum line ... Possible sources are PVC Valve or Break Booster line."

I know the Break Booster Line is easier to access. But has anyone tried the PCV Valve line. (it tends to crud up and can cause problems)

I'm thinking of trying it. But would love to hear if anyone else had and what they had learned through experience.

Doug

 

Originally posted by DDan1967
... I know the Break Booster Line is easier to access. But has anyone tried the PCV Valve line...

Actually yes, same difference, it all goes to the same place. It actually was easier, you don't even have to pop the BB valve.

 

Since the booster line only picks up air in one direction--yes, I know it goes back and forth with vacuum pulses-- you may want to kill two birds with one stone. Run the cleaner through the PCV line and clean it out too.

SL

 

I was reading the forums and maybe this might help answer some sea foam questions. I have been working on the crown vic police cars for years and I use sea foam every ten thousand miles.

Our patrol cars just putt around town with the interceptor engines and the sea foam has been an excellent de carbonizer.

I have used the pcv and brake booster vacum line methods and have also used the sea foam in a plastic spray bottle and atomize it right down the throttle body. The EGR port is at the back of the throat and it does clean that area.

I have had a problem with throttle butterflys sticking and the sea foam loosens the grit from that area also.

Now you old timers, I hate to date myself this way but I used to use dexron II transmission fluid right down the carb to break that carbon loose and blow it out the exhaust. To clean the engine block we would warm up the engine drain the oil and run a 50/50 mix of clean engine oil and diesel fuel in the crank case for about five minutes and then drain.

You do need to watch the oil pressure as junk can block the pick up screen on the oil pump.

The thing that is particular on the newer computerized vehicles is that the oxygen sensors will get contaminated from the excess oil that is coming down the exhaust pipe and will throw a code. I think it's a PO430 code on the OBD II systems.

I do have a Echlin (Napa) decarbonizer in the shop but the sea foam is priced right and convient to use.

Just a quick note, we did a Astro Van last week in the shop with 80,000 miles on it. However it's only use is a deliverly van used in town. To clean it I ended up using two cans to get it to smooth out. One can normally does the job, especially if the vehicle has a resonable amount of highway miles to.

Hope this helps....

 

Well...I have read all the + and - to using Sea Foam to cure a variety of ills, so today, I introduced 8oz thru the PCV and 8oz in a full tank of gas. My gas mileage has suffered a little in the past year...I am at 75000 miles on my 4.2 1999 SC auto and the last 2 tanks of combined city and highway driving has been a little over 17mpg. Considered new upstream O2 sensors but Ford wants $80/ea and I am not that far off my MPG mark, nor have I had an MIL so I thought I would try this snake medicine remedy before a business trip to Colorado. Right off, the idle improved. I will be traveling 530 miles out and 530 back so I will have ample time to get a new mpg rating. I also changed my oil after the big Sea Foam douche as it darkened slightly and I was about due anyway...Mobil One since 1000 miles makes things in the crankcase clean looking so it may be combustion blow-by doing the dirty..Will check back in about a week with the results.......jb

 

Has anybody ever had any problems with Seafoam?
Spark plug problems?
Fuel Filter?
Sensors?
Leaks?

I have 100,000 miles on my truck and was wondering if anyone has had any problems caused by Seafoam because I can't afford to make any repairs, but I want to improvements that Seafoam gives and the smoke show is a bonus.

 

One thing I do after my sea foam routine and I think it gets overlooked by alot of ford owners.

I have guys bring in thier fords and there is a small roughness to the way the engine idles that new plugs and tune up doesn't seem to remove.

I have read alot in the forum on ford engines that don't seem to really smooth out at idle.

I have allways found that after I make sure there are no vacum leaks that the MAF Sensor is dirty/contaminated. This sensor plays a large roll in MPG and engine smoothness and it seems the O2 and the EGR allways end up being the most popular sensors get suspected first and the MAF gets ignored.

The MAF is actually a maintenance item and needs cleaned yearly. Being in a farming community where not alot of miles get racked onto local farm vehicles but yet they see rough service duty. It's not uncommon for me to have to clean the MAF every three to six month periods.

Now some pickupscars have a small wire style and crown vics have a larger style. I suggest you talk to your local Napa parts man to see what spray is offered ( I use a CRC brand electrical cleaner) Your local Ford dealer may have a technic I haven't dicovered yet so I'd talk to them and see what they do.

I remove the sensor (if I can't access it to spray it) and spray it liberally with spray and then allow it to air dry and re install. Under no reason do you touch it with anything else. Do not put the can right next to the wire, some aerosol brands have alot of pressure and can break the wire. So be around 12 inches from the wire at first till you get things figured out. The sensor I think runs around $160.00 bucks so use caution and patience and common sense.

This is somthing you can do and is cheap and if it doesn't work then your only out a price of a can of spray and a bit of time.

Hope it helps, good luck.

 

OK, after 1046 miles, all highway @ 65 (2 lane) and 70 (4 lane) here is my Seafoam report:

Worst recorded mileage was 15.9 going southbound on the Kansas turnpike into one of our 35 mph early spring winds. The best was 19.6, collected in southern Colorado. That is almost as good as I have had for several years traveling at highway speeds. I did get 24.2 in 1999 when the wife and I went on the scenic route to Yellowstone thru eastern Idaho at about 45-50 mph as we rubbernecked for many miles. This was a fluke because of the road and speed without traffic. Did Seafoam help on this 1046 mile trip? I think it did as my average highway MPG has been 17 mpg. Would I treat my engine again? Probably in the next 10,000 miles. I am now at 76500 and still on the original O2 sensors so when money comes around again, I may replace the upstream ones then....dunno tho, will watch my mileage per gallon figures for a serious fall off, then spend the bucks.
jb

 

I've 204,000+ miles on my 4.6L 4x4 and it's still running smooth and I've no complaints. But after reading everything here it seemed like a good idea to do it, since no one had any complants I figured it couldn't hurt.

Anyway, I ran 8 oz. through my PCV hose a few weeks ago. It was a cold day and the engine may have cooled to much while I was messing with things. But I didn't get much smoke.

Though that could also be because I normaly run 89 Octane with 10% ethenol, it costs the same as 87 Octane here so I figure it can't hurt. Any way since I've the ethenol running through constantly it must be pretty clean already.

I didn't really feel any difference driving either.

But I think I'll give it another shot on a warm day soon and see if there is a difference. Also I haven't yet run any through my fuel tank, figure I'll wait till it's time to change the fuel filter first.

Doug

 

In my experience, to be the most effective, the engine must be at normal operating temp. My truck has 123K miles and I ran my truck until the temp gauge reads normal operating temp. Then, I used a whole can of SF for the intake. I then let the truck sit for about 1/2 hour. Cranked her up and I couldn't believe how much smoke poured out the back. It reminded me of my old Triumph back in my high school days. I also added a can in the gas tank which was at 1/2 tank. Between doing this and cleaning my MAF, my truck runs perfect. I have been performing this routine every other oil change.

 

Okay anyone got any pictures of what vaccum line to use on the straight 6? then this is how much to use?

half a can before oil change
can in a tank or so of gas
half a can through whichever vaccum hose to use on the big 6?

The truck needs it and my neighbors have been annoying me lately so i think smoking em out might be a little fun.

 

Listen,

Where can I order seafoam? I live in Santo Domingo and need to order maybe get it here fedex.

 

Here you go. They sell it by the can as well, but since you live farther away, this would probably be the best deal for you.