I have a 2000 F150 4X4 with the 5.4 and 50,000 miles on it. My problem is that when the truck is cold (allowing one or two minutes for warm up) it seems to have all the power in the world. I can stomp it and it will spin 33 inch mud terrains, but after the truck warms up completely it seems to lose a lot of power. Has anyone else experienced this, or is currently experiencing this?

 

Greg READ THIS
Engine - Lacks Power in High Temperatures
Article No.
02-12-3
06/24/02
^ DRIVEABILITY - ENGINE LACKS POWER WHEN
OPERATING IN HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURES
ABOVE 38C (100F) - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH
5.4L ENGINE ONLY
^ ENGINE - 5.4L - ENGINE LACKS POWER WHEN
OPERATING IN HIGH AMBIENT TEMPERATURES
ABOVE 38C (100F)
FORD:
2000-2002 EXPEDITION, F-150
ISSUE
Some vehicles equipped with the 5.4L-2V engine may exhibit a lack of power condition when operating in ambient temperatures above 38°C (100 °F). This may be caused by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) calibration which retards the ignition timing to prevent detonation when the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) reaches 60°C (140 °F) or above. This may be more pronounced during stop-and-go driving.

ACTION

Verify the condition. Reprogram the PCM with the latest calibration and on 2000 and 2001 F-150's, install body plugs behind Coolant Overflow Bottle if missing. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
For 2000-2002 F-150's and Expeditions equipped with a 5.4L 2V engine, if a lack of power occurs only when the IAT is above 60°C (140°F), reprogram the PCM to the latest level calibration as shown.
For 2000 and 2001 F150's, install Body Plugs (383181-S and N807093-S) behind the Coolant Overflow Bottle. Refer to Figure 1 for location and plug button installation. These plugs will reduce the engine compartment heat moving into the air cleaner inlet area.
Body Plug Installation

1. Remove air cleaner inlet. Refer to Section 303-12.

2. Remove jack handle.

3. Remove upper radiator sight shield.

4. Disconnect radiator overflow hose from radiator to degas bottle.

5. Position degas bottle away from body plug hole area.

6. Install body plugs in location shown in illustration.

7. Position back degas bottle Torque to 9 N.m (80 Lb-in).

8. Connect radiator overflow hose.

9. Install upper radiator sight shield.

10. Install jack handle.

11. Install air cleaner inlet. Refer to Section 303-12.

Parts Block

Obtain an Authorized Modifications decal (FPS 8262 obtainable through DOES II, 25/pkg) and list the date, dealer number, and summary of modifications performed. Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission Control Information decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications decal. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield.

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of bumper To bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
021203A Reprogram Powertrain 0.6 Hr.
Control Module: 2000,
2001, 2002, F-150, F-150
Super Crew, Expedition
021203B Reprogram Powertrain 0.9 Hr.
Control Module And Install
Body Plugs If Missing:
2000, 2001 F-150, F-150
Super Crew
DEALER CODING
CONDITION
BASIC PART NO. CODE
RECALEM 42
OASIS CODES: 614000, 614500, 614600, 622000
Mr greg this may help you out on your quest.
good luck turbo ted

 

Will the hypertech power programmer 3 take care of the reprogramming part, or do i still need to take it to a dealer and get the latest calibration.

 

Even in Florida, surely it's not still over 100 degrees every day is it?

 

No, but when it does my truck runs like crap...

 

Are you saying it's doing this now? Or just when it's in the 90's to over 100? If it's doing it now, this isn't the problem. The problem described in the TSB's is specific to high temps. Mine does it bad in stop and go traffic when it's upper 90's into the 100's. I'm just not crazy about the idea of reprogramming the ECM; well, I should say "the dealer" programming the ECM.

 

I start to notice it if the outside temperature is 85 or higher. But today I stuck a thermometer under the hood next to the K&N intake and took it for a stop and go drive and the thermometer reached 135 to 140. And that was with the outside temp about 80. So it’s probably just the heat building up under the hood.

 

An easier fix might be to duct cold air into your K&N. Prob. fix the problem in all but the highest ambient temps and will increase performance the rest of the time.

 

I could very well be wrong on this but I have noticed the same thing on my truck and have simply attributed it to the fact that the engine is still "tight" and thus running slightly higher compression when not fully warmed up. Depending on materials that the cylinder wall and rings are made of will determine how fast they expand with the increase in temperature. If the rings and pistons expand faster then the cylinder wall they will create a tighter seal (I think..) and bump the compression. Well thats my .02 so take it for what it's worth. Good luck!

Bones

 

....and I beleive the issues is that the ECM starts pulling timing when intake air reaches 140. What you're describing sounds like the same thing I get. When it's in the 50's out, WOW, it's a new truck and really fun to drive!

 

Did it come with the 33 inch tires from the factory? I would be thinking the VSS is so far off it throws the PCM a big curve on fuel ratios.

Would be a good question to ask Mike Troyer in the computer chips forum.


tom

 

No the truck didn't come with 33's I put the BFGoodrich Mud Terrains on it. So what's the VSS???

 

Vss vehicle speed sensor. Speedo has to be off pretty good with tires that big on it.

Seeing as how I can't get my speedo set accurate on 31 inch tires I doubt there is an adjustment for the 33's.

If there is I would sure like to hear what lie to tell the PCM.

tom

 

It's a common fact that all trucks will lose power in the higher temps.

That's why in the summer, 1/4 mile times significantly drop after dark.

 

This is not a problem where you lose a little power because of heat or the fan clutch kicking in. If you are having the same problem as me, it is a serious loss of power which makes towing anything unbearable. It seriously feels like going to a 4 cylinder motor. And it can happen in as low as 80 degrees outside. Since I live in Phoenix, that can be 75% of the year!

I have some information on this problem, and if you do a search you will find that many others have also had this problem. The first thing you need to do is take it to the dealer and have them install the newer programming. There was a known problem for hot weather where the computer retards the timing too much. I think it happens when the underhood temperatures go above 140.
There is also a similar problem when the EGR DPFE sensor goes bad.
Hopefully that will work for you as it does for most people. Unfortunately, it did not work for me and I have taken my truck to the 3 dealers 11 times for this problem. I finally found a dealer which was willing to actually try and solve this problem for me. Basically, they don't know whats wrong but they just keep asking Ford what to try next. I am currently waiting for what they want to try next but here is a list of things they have tried :

re-programmed computer
Moved the IAT sensor to outside the engine compartment
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
New Mass Air sensor (twice)
New computer (twice)
New IAT sensor
New EGR DPFE sensor
New catalytic converters


Luckily, this is all under warranty.

Believe it or not, installing new catalytic converters seemed to help for a couple weeks, but then the problem came back.

Ford keeps trying to tell me that they have never come acrossed this problem before, but obviously other people on here have it.

So, take it to the dealer and let me know how it goes.

Oh, also, mine is an 01 Supercrew 5.4 4x4