JMC thanks for the link.

John

 

I called Dave Heudmaker at Flex-a-lite today about setting the temperature for the controller. He said they do not set the temp setting at the factory. That means we have to do it.

I have a 98 F150 so I can't get a reading off my gauge but he said to wait till the thermostat opens which you can tell because it will pressurize the upper radiator hose. That's at 195* then he said to back it off a little bit so it's at about 192* that way the fans have a little bit of a head start for when the thermostat is open and the engine is warmed up. I tend to think the thermostat should be open when the fans are running so I'm going to tinker around with it till I find a setting that's not too hot but seems right to me between 195-200*. Turn the set screw clockwise to increase temp and counter-clockwise to lower the turn on temp.

 

The fan run differences between the PPI kit and the FAL kit are:

The PPI kit the fans run at 1 speed only, 100%, but the fans are staged to turn on 1 at a time.
1 fan will run when the set point is reached, then the next if the A/C is turned on, or if the second set point is reached.

The FAL kit runs both fans at 60% for the first set point of temp, or if the AC is on. The only time the fans run at 100% speed is if the second set point is reached.

Run my fans at 1st set point : 202* second is an auto setting on the FAL kit of 1st + 10* or 212*.

I know that Rocks set his PPI kit the same way last summer.

Steve

 

SSCULLY On the FAL fans is that 60% run built into the fans or the controlers and where did you get your kit? I can get the PPI kit for about 355.00 + shipping

John

 

Ok with all this fan talk I did not bother to ask one of the most important questions of all. This is for anyone that has the FAL 270 kit ona 1997 F-150 Where did you hook up the wire that supplies power to the fan once the key is turned on I do not want to wire the thing right to the battery as this could and probably will drain the battery once the truck is turned off. So where did you hook up the wire?

Richard D.

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

I got both my + & - hooked directly to the battery. The+ lead has a fusable link. I've had no problems with battery drain when the engine is off even though the fans run for about 30 seconds after shut down - which is normal. I'd rather make sure that I have a good power source to my fans that wont crap out. Plus while you're at it you can run the leads behind the washer reservoir to the controller to make it look nicer. The supplied electrical connectors from FAL accomodate battery hookup.

Don't sweat it.

 

So you are saying I DO NOT need to hook up toa keyed power just go straight to the battery? I got my FAL today by the way wasn't expecting it this soon and DAM is the power cord with that fuse BIG. I am going to be busy this weekend I have the FAL, AF1,a Braided Stainless Steel Hose for some of my Vacuum & Brake Booster lines also my Radiator overflow, and Silicone hose for all my other vacuum lines to work on this weekend.

Richard D.

 

je3169,

The speed is done by the VSC on the FAL kit.

I found out after the fact that the FAL kit is about 50.00 moe expensive then the FAL kit from Summit Racng ( FAL-270 ).

I took the power from the hot in run position from the Ignition Switch under the dash and ran it out to the VSC.

Steve

 

To clarify the FAL kit.

To power the fans you get your wires (FAL terminals #1 & #4) hooked up to the battery.

The ignition actuated wire that hooks up to terminal #9 on the FAL controller you get from an ignition ON power souce like SSCULLY said.

 

Steve thanks for the info this go's out to anybody is the factory fan reverse threaded ??

John

 

John,

Threads are normal, righty tighty, lefty loosey

You need a large cresent wrench or the fan nut wrench for the fan itself ( 36 mm I think ?? ) and something to hold the water pump still while you take it off.

I just got the correct tools, they were fairly cheap online.


The other is if you have the large cresent wrench and can get your hands on a piece of 3/4" EMT pipe you can make something to hold it is what one member did.
Hammer the end of the 3/4" thin wall pipe flat drill 2 holes that match up with the bolt pattern, and take 2 of the bolts out and temp install longer bolts through the pipe, this is the water pump pulley holder now.

Don held the water pump pulley with a pry bar between the bolt heads, there are a few ways around buying the tools.

Steve

 

I guess my question got misunderstood I understand that the FAL gets it's power from the Battery I wanted to know where everyone was tying in for tht ignition on wire to the #9 terminal.
Also am I to understand that the wrench size to remove the stock fan is 36mm? WOW that's big I need to go Find one of those. Well while writing this I decided to check my Crafstman catalog and I cannot find a 36mm wrench. So this goes to SSCully can I maybe rent those two tools you have showing somewhere.

Richard D.

 

Richard D,

hapynzap clarified my posting. The hot in run position from the ignition switch is connected to terminal #9. Like you said the fused connection to the battery is where to power the actual fan themselves.

Power needs to be applied to pin #9 in order for the fans to work. Kind of like powering a coil on a relay. Power the coil, the normally open contacts close, and allow power to run through that connection ( battery to the fans ).

That is what I was trying to answer in the post, hapynzap wrote what I should have in the first place ( thanks ! ).

As for the tools, you can try any place that rents items like ball joint seperators, hub pullers, etc.
I got them out of the tool chest, and the wrench is a 36 mm. If you have a large cresent wrench this would work ( one that can open to about 1.5" the nut is about 1.4 " using 25.4 mm =1" )

Mine are from Schley Products Inc.
The wrench : p/n : 88550
The water pump pulley holder : 61600 ( Fan Clutch Wrench )

Good luck

Steve

 

OK I understand that it goes to the #9 position on the FAL control box the question still is Where did everyone tie it into for the KEY ON . I have checked my owners manual and have noticed that there are several unused slots in the fuse box under the hood of my truck could I possibly use one of these or is there a circuit in that fuse panel that I should tie into? Any pictures showing this hook up would be greatly appreciated.

Richard D.

 

That is what I answered, from the Ignition switch, take one of the wires that is hot in the run position.

On a 2001 it was the red wire w/ a black stripe.

Look under the dash, up towards where the ignition switch is at, you will see a connector for the ignition switch. On the 2001 the red wire w/ the black stripe is leaving this connector.

Check a EVTM for your year truck to make sure of the color code.

I don't have my 97 to 03 EVTM with me at the moment to check the color code, if you have a service manual that shows wiring diagrams you should be able to find it straight away.