Richard D,

Think of things(accessories) that only work when your KEY is turned to "on" or your engine is running. Does your Horn work when the engine is off and the key is in your pocket? How about your radio?

Now go to your "Power Distribution Box" Look for fuse #5 that is the horn fuse. Fuse #6 is for the radio. That is the case for 1998 F-150's and is most likley the same for a '97.

To be sure check them with a "test light" or volt meter. Is it "hot" with the key out? How bout with the engine running?

#'s 11,12.13 are "not used". Check these with a test light or volt/ohmeter. Engine running or key out. Then choose one.

Good Luck,

Bill

 

Thank You SSCULLY. I guess I didnt understand you when you said from the ignition and meant actaully from the ignition switch itself. Guess I need to go buy a test light. I have always used a volt meter to check things for voltage. I think the test lights have a fairly sharp point on them though for probing wires whereas my leads on the volt meter do not. Bill just so you know position # 6 has power all the time for the radio so that the clock keeps time. And does anyone know why they leave so many spots open is it for addding accesories?
O yeah I started wireing up the fan yeterday to get things started and boy do Flex-a-lites directions need some help they are a little vague.

Thanks to all for the help,
Richard D.

 

You know what I am being so stupid I just realized that my Aux Off-Road Lights are wired to only work when the key is in the ON position. So my question is this can I: A.) Tap into the purple wire that my lights use or B.) should i tap into the same RED Power wire that the purple wire for my lights is tapped into? Will putting another wire onto the RED Power wire cause a problem like an overload or is it simply the signal wire, so it does not draw enough current to cause a problem? By the way the RED power wire is located under my steering wheel up in the wireing that looks like it goes to the key switch but I am not sure exactly where it ties in as it is very hard for me to get up under the dash and look. Not becasue I am big but becasue I have a terrible bad back.

Richard D.

While your here check out my GALLERY:

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

If you get a test light and put it on the positive battery clamp and touch the light to the number 9 terminal on the FAL controller it will actuate the fans. It takes very little electricity draw to actuate the controller as you can see the energy coming thru the filiment of a small bulb will activate it. I pulled my ignition source off the power line to the passenger side coil pack on my 4.6L becuase it was closest to where I mounted the controller with no effect on performance of the coil.

 

Sweet that makes things real simple for me then I am going to just tap into the purple wire that is already running to the ignition power wire under my dash for my lights, since the purple wire is at my battery and I plan on putting the FAL control panel on the passenger side behind the headlight.

Thanks again for the help I wasn't trying to be stupid or be a pest I just did not want to screw nothing up.

Richard D.

 

Thanks for the info SSCULLY

John

 

Richard D,

I don't know if I mis-read your 2 posts, but what I see is the red wire supplies power to the switch for the driving lamps, and the purple wire is the power from the switch to the relay coil.

If you use this for the fan terminal #9, and I read it correctly, your fans would only work when you have your driving lights on.

If I mis-read the 2 posts that's cool, but what my feeble mind gathered is the purple wire is the output of the driving lamp switch.

If the red wire you used to power the switch is the hot in run position under the dash, you'd re-tap that power lead again and run another wire to the VSC.

Mine was a Red w/ black stripe on my year, but I am guessing it is the same thing.
Also just for saftey sake, I put a fuse under the dash for the line that ran to the VSC. If I happen to have a problem with that wire, it will blow the fuse for the VSC terminal #9 only, rather then the fuse that the hot in run position wire is on ( forget what all that feeds right now ).

Never can tell what can happen, and I had an open position in the fuse holder under there ( little fuse 5 position block, 5 inputs 5 outputs really just a neat way of putting in 5 ATC fuse holders ).

Steve

 

SSCULLY there are actaully two purple wires one goes to the Lights on swicthto the HELLA wireing harness then to the relay but when I had them insatlled I didnt want the lights to be able to turn on unless the key was in the on position in other words I did not want them hot all the time. So the purple wire that i am talking about is not even conncted to the on switch for the light it is simply a signal wire telling the relay that they can work now becasue the key is on. I wasnt sure if tapping into the red wire would be a wise thing do to it already having a wire tapped into it. I got myelf a test light yesterday and checked the purple wire both with key on and key off. OFF it has nothing as soon as key truned on it has power that is why i figured I would just tap into it.The other purple wire goes from the relay to the swicth on my dash witha yellow and black I think. SO i actaully have two purples from what i can tell by examining it all. Do you think it would be ok to put another tap into my red wire? I was just concerned with overload on it.

Richard D.

 

Richard D.,

Unless you don't have 0.2 of an amp room on that, I would not imagine any problem.

The terminal #9 does not pull any load to speak of, so I would not worry about it.

With 2 purple wires, that makes more sense now, I read it as one wire.

Looks like you are all set to go, good luck with the install.

For setting the temp, if you can use a copy of AutoTap or AutoXray you can watch the collant temp, with you being without the digital odometer. Seems to be slightly more accurate then the laser sighted temp gauge. If you can't get the ODB software, then I guess the temp probe is the next best thing. When I did mine I followed the directions about setting the on temp by feeling the radiator hose, and it was about 8* F too low for the turn on point. Just what I found doing the install, when comparing the FAL method vs the AutoTap temp ( same reading place as the digital odometer ).

Steve

 

Steve,

I am going to have to follow the FAL directions myself as I do not have any type a thermometer except the one on my BBQ (LOL). What is the Autotap thing you speak of? Those FAL directions by the way SUCK I was wireing up the fan yesterday to kind of get a head start and the wiring part of the install and those instructiuons are very very vague I could not figure out if I was supose to connect all the positive wires toone of the 2-1 connectors and the negative wires into the other 2-1 connector so I just said screw it I think that is what they are trying to say and I figure that's how I would have done it without directions so that is what i did. I want to thank you again for all your help with this I really am not as stupid as I have appeared at times considering I do have a degreee in Auto Mechanics even though it is about 17 years old. Like i said I just want to make sure I don't ******* nothin up. I have a buddy who runs a mechanic shop around the corner from me maybe I will go see if he has some type of temp gauge i could use to set the fans.

Richard D.

 

Richard D-
Just got done installing FAL #270 in my Expy. I downloaded better instructions from their website, www.flexalite.com. For me I mounted the switch (control panel) on the firewall. Took about 4 hours with some help from a neighbor.

Check out their website...the instructions that come with the unit are worthless.

Good luck.

 

I sent Flex-a-lite and e-mail telling them that the instructions basically suck and are very vague, I also told them I was disappointed that no Flex-a-lite Stickers came with the FAL #270 kit that I could stick on my tool box( Quirky little habit I have putting stickers on my tool boxes of all products I use) They replied to my e-mail in one day saying sorry about the instructions we will try and make them better and your stickers are on there way to you. I tell you it sure does pay to e-mail these companies nowadays that is one thing the internet has helped me do anyway is tell companies how I feel about there products.

Richard D.

While your here check out my Gallery:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

AutoTap or AutoXray are ODB II diag software. It allows you to plug into the ODB II and read things like the head temp from Cyl #1, the IAT, the MAFS flow rate, A/F ratios, etc.

The wiring of the fan, I skipped the using the bullet connectors, and put both in a large female spade connector and put them right to the Terminal and on the VSC

So far it looks like you got everything else ready to go.

Good luck with it.

Steve

 

Steve,

Where did you put the VSC? I ran my wire yesterday for the #9 position and also installed the VSC just behind the passenger headlight on the sheetmetal. I had to remove the Washer Fluid res. to get access to drill my two mounting holes I am trying to get as much done before this weekend so all I really have to deal with is removeing the stock fan and installing the FAL. I got the tools to remove the fan from a buddy of mine so that will make things a bit easier, I have also got a few other things I will be doing to the truck which is why I have started doing all the pre install stuff. I am also putting in a AF1 and replaceing a lot of my decaying vacuum lines. I will be posting new pictures in my gallery once I get everything done and have the film developed.

Richard D.

While your here check out my gallery:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

Richard,

I put my VSC in the same place you are taling about, behind the pass side headlight on the sheet metal. I have a 90 head drill, so mounting it with #10 x 3/4 sp drive tec pan head screws was a snap for me.

If you can get the wire for everything but the fan and the temp probe done before hand, you'll save a lot of time in the process. I did it all one night.

Good luck, let me know if you have any other questions.

Steve