I know the oil press gauge is a dummy gauge but is the water temp gauge real?? Would the needle actually move up higher if you started to overheat??

 

According to a post I read on www.ford-diesel.com, the factory gauge moves normally up to about 190F, then stays put until about 230F and then moves up again.

So if you see it reading above normal, it is really hot.

Ian

 

about the time you see it the overheat protection kicks in(running on certain cylinders only) then it's too late with these aluminium heads...wwwwwaaaaarrrrrrppppp

 

Just got done installing some Autometer water and trans temp gauges. (Well, still working on the trans sending unit, but it's in the pod.....)

Anyway, got the water temp done and when it hits 150* the stock gauge is already at it's "normal" position. I've never seen my stock gauge go above this "normal" position ever. When it's all warmed up and crusing down the road, I'm at 195*. I wonder what temp it would take to get the stupid thing to move? Obviously higher then I'd like to see! That's why I got the gauges. Got myself a #4500 travel trailer and plan on lots of towing.

I don't even know why they put those "idiot" gauges in. They even put in the "idiot" lights too....... Well, I know it's because stupid, dumba$$ people would take their cars or trucks into the dealer saying that "somethings wrong..... my needle is moving all over the place". IDIOTS!!!!

 

Mitch,did you remove the temp.sensor unit or did you tee in the guage with the sensor?Is it a mechanical guage or electric?

 

My next mod is the same set up, tranny temp, water temp with a duel pod. I'm thinking autometer electrical and getting it all at summit. What do you think MitchF150?

 

Its a real gauge. However it is a slosh gauge, where it needs to be in a certain range for a certain time before it will start moving that way. I didn't like it, thats why I installed a Autometer. I have the LoteK triple gauge pod with tranny temp oil pressure and water temp, all mechanical. You need to keep the original sender I think. If you remove it you will set a code.
Jes

 

BlueOvalFitter,

No, I didn’t even go near it. You must leave all the stock sending units in place for the computer. You can T into them. I tapped into the hose that goes into the heater core with a brass T fitting. My gauges are electric, so I had to also ground the brass T. No big deal. Easier then trying to route the mechanical sending unit lines IMO.

Suvdrvr,

Since that’s exactly what I did, I’d say go for it. I’m happy with the setup. I painted the pod to match my gray interior and it ‘almost’ looks stock.

Getting ready to head into the garage and install the trans sending unit. Going to T into the rubber hose on the outlet tranny line to the rad. Hope it works!!

Good luck guys

 

I'm a pipefitter by trade so I have all kinds of ways of piping things.I was considering using the drivers side block drain opening.I mean,dont you want to know where the temp. is the highest and at the block thats where it will be.Rite now I have a 1/4"stainless close nipple and a 1/4" nickle ball valve with a brass plug in the valve I use to drain the block.I was going to tee it there and run my gauge from there.

 

I don't know that the block would be the hottest part. Where the heater hose is, it's coming out of the pass side head. My water temp shows 195* most of the time, and since thats the thermostat temp rating, I think I've got the hottest part, other then the T stat housing itself, where the stock sending unit is by the way.

IMO, the block drain is too close to where the water is coming in from the rad all nice and cooled down. It hasn't had a chance to run around all 8 cylinders or the heads yet. Anyway, JMO. Any temp is better then what the factory gauge tells you!

 

The stock temp guage will peg, I blew a fan relay on my electrics and overheated once