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Do you need to fix a spark plug blow out? Forum members suggest various methods to fix the problem. The methods include:
Read the full discussion below to find out the preferred methods.
Read the full discussion below to find out the preferred methods.
living with ford spark plug blow out problem
That sounds almost too loud for a rod knock...of course vid's have a ways of distorting the sound as well.....I would swag timing chain tensioner/chain itself is failing
Last edited by beechkid; Feb 7, 2015 at 11:31 PM.
1) Cold start in morning
2) Start after having it sit for at least 30 minutes
3) Changing oil
Under scenario 1 and 2 the tick is gone for 5 to 8 minutes and comes back. Under the 3rd scenario, when I changed oil, it came back after about 2 minutes.
Does this sound logical if the timing chain is failing? Or more of a lifter tick / rod knock?
Blown plug
Howdy all,
I am a new victim of spark plug blowout on #3 cyl. My 98 navigator 5.4 L (165K) did it yesterday. Just to include my info for posterity....
I have had an exhaust leak. I replaced my warped passenger side exhaust manifold (broken studs) and upgraded to stainless steel studs. That helped, but not a full fix. I figured I would do the other side soon, but have yet to find time.
I also had the ticking noise that sounded like a lifter and was definitely on the same bank as the plug that just blew. I tried some oil Tx hoping that would help. Oh well, three weeks later, here we are.
5 miles or so prior to the blow out, I noticed that the ticking noise was louder, not by much. Less than a mile from home pop, pop, pop. Thought my muffler fell off!
After a tow strap ride home I investigated further. I let it cool off and the plug came out easily, fully intact, with no real notable thread damage. The COP was thrashed though. Fortunately, as I have replaced two already I had a spare COP on hand as well as a plug. I hoped that I would be able to thread it right in and be happily on my way....Nope. Three turns and I meet resistance that I know better than to keep turning against. I tried starting it with a piece of rubber hose, same thing. I tried both techniques multiple times. I'm thinking the threads are damaged.
I have changed other plugs on this rig with my regular old spark plug socket and an extension. I am curious as to why others (syncmaster), who sounds knowledgeable, states that a deep socket must be used. Is this why I cant get it to thread? Everything felt right when I used it for the other plugs and they have held for 3K at least..... This is my primary question.
I have read a fair amount on the subject. Sounds like I want to go with time sert or big sert. I think the block and head shop I know has the kit (gotta wait til he opens Monday).
Given the mileage and the fact that I only have 2 grand in the truck (1,000 in parts included), I would not be opposed to trying some loctite if I could get it to thread.....Any thoughts on that? (this will probably insight a riot)
Thanks in advance.
I am a new victim of spark plug blowout on #3 cyl. My 98 navigator 5.4 L (165K) did it yesterday. Just to include my info for posterity....
I have had an exhaust leak. I replaced my warped passenger side exhaust manifold (broken studs) and upgraded to stainless steel studs. That helped, but not a full fix. I figured I would do the other side soon, but have yet to find time.
I also had the ticking noise that sounded like a lifter and was definitely on the same bank as the plug that just blew. I tried some oil Tx hoping that would help. Oh well, three weeks later, here we are.
5 miles or so prior to the blow out, I noticed that the ticking noise was louder, not by much. Less than a mile from home pop, pop, pop. Thought my muffler fell off!
After a tow strap ride home I investigated further. I let it cool off and the plug came out easily, fully intact, with no real notable thread damage. The COP was thrashed though. Fortunately, as I have replaced two already I had a spare COP on hand as well as a plug. I hoped that I would be able to thread it right in and be happily on my way....Nope. Three turns and I meet resistance that I know better than to keep turning against. I tried starting it with a piece of rubber hose, same thing. I tried both techniques multiple times. I'm thinking the threads are damaged.
I have changed other plugs on this rig with my regular old spark plug socket and an extension. I am curious as to why others (syncmaster), who sounds knowledgeable, states that a deep socket must be used. Is this why I cant get it to thread? Everything felt right when I used it for the other plugs and they have held for 3K at least..... This is my primary question.
I have read a fair amount on the subject. Sounds like I want to go with time sert or big sert. I think the block and head shop I know has the kit (gotta wait til he opens Monday).
Given the mileage and the fact that I only have 2 grand in the truck (1,000 in parts included), I would not be opposed to trying some loctite if I could get it to thread.....Any thoughts on that? (this will probably insight a riot)
Thanks in advance.
that is the manual written by the folks that designed the heads that spits out plugs. Torque them to 28 and they will not blow out.
__________________
Jim
Jim
There is a ton of information about the blow out issue everyone universally recommends locknstitch or timesert. The time sert can be done by any person who has the capability to change the plugs on one of these engines-its easy! 28 lbs dry! and make sure your coils are secure! lots of time the blowout is actually caused by the coil being loose!
Don't overtighten the coil bolts though - they do have bushings so they do move around a bit.
If you had read more posts in this thread, you would have seen why 28 ft/lb is recommended. In fact, use only Motorcraft plugs and do NOT use antiseize. That's also been addressed.
If you had read more posts in this thread, you would have seen why 28 ft/lb is recommended. In fact, use only Motorcraft plugs and do NOT use antiseize. That's also been addressed.
Just a quick post, my 2003 has a built date 04/03. So I maybe lucky? I know my 00 had the old heads, but no problems. replaced the plugs at 180K. Just have to do this one, with 243k. Dont know if they were ever changed?
But have bigger fish, the exaust manifolds/ a lil rust on one of the bed sides. The cab is mint, the pass side bed side was replace about 4 yrs ago by the last owner. had a lil 3000$ hit on the side. Will be doing it all this summer.
But have bigger fish, the exaust manifolds/ a lil rust on one of the bed sides. The cab is mint, the pass side bed side was replace about 4 yrs ago by the last owner. had a lil 3000$ hit on the side. Will be doing it all this summer.
Even if it doesnt, o well just have to take care to make sure i torque they down. Like I said had old ones in my 00. And got 80k on them until it was smoked by a nice old lady running a red.
I have an 03 engine and it has 4 thread heads. 28 lbs dry. Make sure the coil bolts are tight do not over tighten they should move snugly side to side in the bushing but make sure they are secure. The 1 blow out I had I am positive it was because the bolt stopped short and the coil was able to move to freely.
Thanks, like I said even if it does had a 00, so no worries about changing them. My big pain will be the exaust manifolds. Have one broken bolt flush, the rest ill weld a nut to them. Then Breakfree them for a couple of days.












