Black & sooty is usually an indication of running way to rich, I would replace the FPR ! The FPR should hold pressure @ 40PSI. Seems like you are flooding out on start.

 

Thanks msgtcarew - I ordered the sensor, partsgeek 74.00. I've been cranking the engine quite a bit with no starting and I believe I have a good amount of fuel sitting in the manifold, anybody have any suggestions on getting it out before I try again after installing the sensor?

 

Compressed air thru throttle body.

 

Not much fuel is going to sit there. It will more than likely make it's way into the cylinders through the valves.
I would suggest against per mentioned using compressed air to force it. Where is it going to go?? into the cylinders, past the rings and into the crank,
Speaking of, you need to change your oil as well.. since it is now saturated with fuel. And your soaking your cat converters.
At this point, either letting it sit or removing your plugs to let the cylinders spit the fuel out are your safer options.

 

Toyz is correct. I am working on a 4.6 with a intermittant P0306 code. I have all COPs & plugs removed so the air exits the cylinder plug wells. I have a remote start switch & the OTC Premium Compression Tester I will be using to measure my neighbors compression. Just received all new dealer ordered plugs/COPs/fuel injectors. He is fortunate to use his dad's credit card! Sorry I assumned you had the plugs & COPs removed. We are waiting for the new intake gasket set now.

 

Thanks, it is sitting now while I wait for the new FPS, If, when I try it again after the install, it still acts hydrolocked, I'll pull all the COPs and plugs and crank it clear. I'm hoping with the new FPS it will not flood so much and I will not have to pull everything again. I will also change the oil/filter if it successfully runs.

 

Well my engine was not hydrolocked, it either has some internal damage that occurred when it initially blew the spark plug or I didn't get all the debree out of the cylinder bores after my repairs. Seems one or more pistons is jamming or maybe a rod is bent. The starter had jammed it against whatever is stopping rotation. I can rotate it by hand in both directions but not a full 360 degrees. I will be pulling it out over the next few weeks - it has over 200,000, I was planning on pulling it next summer to do a rebuild so it's just sooner rather than later.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...img-4319rs.jpg

 

I've got the unfortunate pleasure of joining the blown spark plug club after 123K miles. Does the Timesert repair option work on the rear passenger cylinder without having to remove the head (2001 F150 w/ 5.4)? I've been told by a mechanic that removing the head is the only option if doing the repair with a Helicoil and am hoping that it can be done cheaper with the Timesert and not having to remove the head.

TIA.

 

Don't ever use the heli coil, won't last. As for as I know, the Timesert will work fine there. Sent Galaxy a PM, he will know.

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Clearance for the tapping tool is real tight.

 

You can do ANY hole and its really not that much harder then changing plugs. E-mail Galaxy. He's very knowledgeable and he'll walk you through it step by step. The only way you wont be able to do it is if your an idiot.

 

There was an old post here where someone was renting a Time-Sert Kit. Is this still going on?

 

The post before yours. PM or email Galaxy.

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