2006 4.2 Shutter or shake on startup

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Old 01-01-2019, 03:28 PM
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Unhappy 2006 4.2L Shutter or shake on startup

I have a 2006 Regular cab XLT 4.2L with 40,000.0 miles purchased from original owner 6 months ago. Once in a while (happened twice in 1000.0 miles) when starting it doesn't matter if its hot or cold there will be a 1-2 second shutter/shake when it starts. It goes away immediately and runs perfect.
I notice a slight shake at all times when it shuts off and starts even though it doesn't do that hard shutter/shake that lasts 1 to 2 seconds when starting.
Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanking you in advance.
 

Last edited by sweet34; 01-03-2019 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 01-01-2019, 04:26 PM
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Both of my 4.2l V6 engines ('99 and my '07) have done this from brand new. Sometimes it will violently shake when it is started cold, but it occasionally happen when it is hot upon restart. It also shakes when you turn the key off. Reminds me of a diesel. Once it's started, it runs very nicely.

I'm not sure if it is related to the design of the engine or not. If it is, I think it has something to do when it fires up and the pistons are at the most imbalanced spot. The 4.2l isn't the smoothest running engine out there. You know it's turned on and running.

Never has concerned me. It starts and runs every time, so eh, I don't care...
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 05:27 PM
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Thank you so much for your quick reply. I feel better already. Have a Happy New Year.
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 07:42 PM
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A 90 degree V6 is not naturally balanced like a 60 degree V6, 90 degree V8, or any inline engine.. It has a balance shaft to help with that, but it's still going to be a bit rough.
 
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:09 PM
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Very true what glc said.

One more thing I forgot to add... I notice if I hold the key and let the fuel system do it's job at re-pressurizing, before turning to start, it rarely does this.
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 04:39 AM
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It could also be that you need a new fuel filter. Those are supposed to be changed, and nobody ever changes them.
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 04:41 AM
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Appreciate all the input and helpful hint. This site ROCKS!!!!
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 04:43 AM
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Question Location

Originally Posted by Fifty150
It could also be that you need a new fuel filter. Those are supposed to be changed, and nobody ever changes them.
Where is the fuel filter located? Is it in the tank?
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:27 AM
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Smile Located it

Originally Posted by sweet34
Where is the fuel filter located? Is it in the tank?
Did some research and found the filter is located on the driver's side frame rail. How do I release the pressure on the fuel system and do I need a special tool?
Would be nice if someone would take the time and walk me through the complete process step by step. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 08:35 AM
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The fuel rail pressure will never be more than 50 PSI. What I do is let the truck sit for an hour or two and the pressure will bleed off.

A quick disconnect tool is all you need to remove the fuel line. You can pick one of these up at any auto parts store.

I change my filter every ~20K-30K miles.

And I can assure you that is not going to magically fix it.

But it is good housekeeping...
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:45 PM
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Thumbs up Some Information Found on my new purchase

Just found the maintenance record book kept by original owner. Previous owner changed the fuel filter and had the injectors cleaned every 15000.0 miles. It was done at 33250.0 miles. It now has 40000.0 miles. If I continue his maintenance schedule, I still have about 7000.00 miles to go. After much research, I've found most recommend 20-30,000.0 miles for that type of maintenance.
Thanks to everyone for your help...…..Have a great week!!!!
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 01:28 PM
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https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6-engines-including-ecoboost/519977-fuel-filter.html
 
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by sweet34
After much research, I've found most recommend 20-30,000.0 miles for that type of maintenance.
I've found most people recommend whatever they think is correct. I've also found that the manufacturer's maintenance schedule is a decent guideline. Keep in mind that the maintenance schedule is not written in stone, brought down from heaven after 40 days & 40 nights, or in a secret guarded location in Ethiopia.

Congratulations on finding a 1 owner, low mileage vehicle. Welcome to the world of maintenance,.

OEM Maintenance Schedule

You will decide for yourself what a good oil change interval is. Back when your truck was new, Ford was recommending oil change 5,000 miles, or 3 months / 3,000 miles / 200 engine hours for severe duty. 5W-20 became the OEM oil weight, replacing 5W-30. A lot of other manufacturers were already specifying 7,500 mile oil changes. This was also around the time that people were getting Used Oil Analysis and changing oil at 10,000 miles or annually.
The book says that Ford spark plugs don't need to be changed for 100,000 miles. That proved not to be the case, in every case. At 86,000 miles, I just replaced spark plugs, wires, and the ignition coil. A lot of forum post will indicate that nothing works in these trucks except Ford Motorcraft. I used an MSD coil, AutoLite 8MM wires, and E3 spark plugs. The MotorCraft coils do crack and cause issues. Motorcraft spark plug wires are 7mm. MotorCraft SP-504 is not the best spark plug on the market. But that's not to say that I bought the best of anything. I got the plugs for $0.88. I paid about $16 for the wires. I bought the coil with a "cash price" (no return or exchange) from a local shop, where it was sitting on the shelf for about 10 years. So I was just being cheap.

Based on the age of the truck, even with the low miles, I would also change the transmission fluid, gear oil, and air filter.

A lot of people will attest that you must use OEM parts, and that nothing else will work as well. To me, that's just drinking the Kool-Aid. Yes. OEM will continue to be consistent. Yes, a lot of aftermarket parts are to be avoided, since they are of such inferior manufacturing that they were made to fail sooner and more often. You can buy a $12 ignition coil, or $100 ignition coil; and you don't need me to explain why. Same way you can spend $3 for a Fram or Wal*Mart SuperTech oil filter, or upwards of $20 for K&N, Mobil1, aFe, Royal Purple. Some aftermarket parts are better, and in every way superior. Drilled, slotted rotors are way better than OEM. I think that Optima & Interstate batteries are better. MotorCraft wiper blades do not perform the best.


Do a little more homework. Do some more reading from different sources. Read a little on oil @ Bob is the Oil Guy Watch some YouTube videos of oil filters being cut open. YouTube also has a guy name FordTechMakULoco who has all sorts of good information.
 
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Old 01-03-2019, 04:12 AM
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WOW Fifty150.....Thanks for taking the time to post. I appreciate it very much. The former owner was a maintenance gear head. He had the transmission serviced, air filter, new battery, cables, tires and etc. done in the last 3000.0 miles. I bought the truck from a friend that bought it new and kept it garaged. The truck doesn't have a scratch on it and it has never been wrecked. It is a Regular Cab XLT, two wheel drive, with the small doors for behind the seat access.
I am very thankful I was in the right place at the right time when he decided to sell. Forgot to mention that he had all scheduled maintenance and mechanical repairs done at the local Ford dealer where he bought it.
Have a great week!!!!!
 

Last edited by sweet34; 01-03-2019 at 09:14 AM.
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Old 01-03-2019, 08:33 AM
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It's funny... I notice that people usually take better care of the v6 F150 2wd XL regular cab, than ones that spend money on the higher dollar trucks.

I'll admit, yes, I have taken good care of my truck over the years.
 


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