MAJOR Ecoboost Accelr PROBLEMS-URGENT
#31
#33
In the 10,000 miles that I have driven my ecoboost, it has experienced the random misfire under hard acceleration less than 10 times. Every time was after a long drive in cool and extremely damp or humid conditions with the defroster on. Most of the time under normal driving conditions the truck performs flawlessly, but it really pisses me off when my brand new $42,000 truck takes a ***** on me when I need it to make a pass on the highway or merge with traffic.
#34
I have driven 2500 miles so far, through alot of rain, and can't reproduce any of these issues. Maybe I am not driving long enough, not enough on cruise control, and/or temp/humidity are not in the right combination.
Either it is endemic to all EB engines, or it's a manufacturing flaw, slight one probably, one some engines. But if endemic to all EB engines, then ALL EBs in areas with the right environmental conditions would fail, and presumably they are not.
That leaves me with the conclusion that it's a manufacturing flaw on some engines.
Either it is endemic to all EB engines, or it's a manufacturing flaw, slight one probably, one some engines. But if endemic to all EB engines, then ALL EBs in areas with the right environmental conditions would fail, and presumably they are not.
That leaves me with the conclusion that it's a manufacturing flaw on some engines.
#35
It has to do with the humidity of the incomoming air. The intake air is compressed and then cooled causing the water to condense in the heat exchanger. once the heat exchanger fills enough for solid droplets to be forced into the intake stream it can cause the engine to misfire. Once this happens he engine goes into limp mode to protect itself.
Its not an actual problem with the engine, as it is with a mis-designed intake system.
A simple purge valve that releases water from the inter cooler would solve the issue, problem would be knowing when to blow it down.
Its not an actual problem with the engine, as it is with a mis-designed intake system.
A simple purge valve that releases water from the inter cooler would solve the issue, problem would be knowing when to blow it down.
#36
I have had same problem 3 times. Whenever there is a lot of rain or moisture the turbo's seem to suck the moisture in which causes the engine to shudder and can also power out your motor. I have had it happen twice while passing, once while passing a semi and another time passing a few cars. This problem is very dangerous. and apparently Ford is working on a solution. I haven't received any warning or any information regarding this problem as of yet. The problem can also bend the rods in your motor, as most vehicles don't work well with water in the motor.
#37
[QUOTE= The problem can also bend the rods in your motor, as most vehicles don't work well with water in the motor.[/QUOTE]
Nope, I believe it is moisture fouling the throttle body readings. There isn't that much moisture passing through to raise compression to the point of bending any rods.
Nope, I believe it is moisture fouling the throttle body readings. There isn't that much moisture passing through to raise compression to the point of bending any rods.
#38
#39
Just to clarify this issue for some of the doubters. The only trucks I have ever bought are Ford trucks and I have never had any major problems up until I purchased my 2012 F150 FX4 ecoboost. The issue regarding my truck shuddering and bogging down is not a fabrication. The only reason I posted this problem is because in two cases my children and I could have been killed from this problem. I hope by posting this issue it may raise awareness there is a problem and hopefully prevent something serious from happening. This is a problem that needs to be fixed.
#40
Pull UR air filter out and look at the bottom of the box. U may see a rust line. That is how high the water is standing in your air filter box. Put your hand thru the Gotts mod; into the fender. Then look at the flap in front beside UR head lights and cover the opening if it is there. I wouldn't be afraid to cover the back side of the grill in front/beside of the headlight area on the driver side ( the vertical slats).
Last edited by papa tiger; 01-01-2013 at 09:04 AM.
#41
Did you Report this to Ford Mtr. CO?
Just to clarify this issue for some of the doubters. The only trucks I have ever bought are Ford trucks and I have never had any major problems up until I purchased my 2012 F150 FX4 ecoboost. The issue regarding my truck shuddering and bogging down is not a fabrication. The only reason I posted this problem is because in two cases my children and I could have been killed from this problem. I hope by posting this issue it may raise awareness there is a problem and hopefully prevent something serious from happening. This is a problem that needs to be fixed.
That is the only way they will tally up the F150's experiencing this problem and develop a TSB to fix it. They did have one TSB which installed a deflector sheild but that didn't work. I originally started this thread and have been interested in watching the posts to it. It happened to me when I first got the truck but since then I haven't had the occasion to drive in wet weather. I trust this is going to happen again and you bet I will be filing another complaint.
Annette
#42
A simple purge valve that releases water from the inter cooler would solve the issue, problem would be knowing when to blow it down.
__________________
U could put an electric solenoid valve hooked to a rubber hose into the bottom of the outlet tube and a push button or toggle switch to energize it at medium boost running the discharge into a piece of 3" plastic tube on the frame after 36,000 miles. Simply drain the tube/catch can with a ball valve occasionally or U could point it up and watch it like NASCAR popping off. Hardest thing would be to make the angle bracket to mount the white plastic tube to and glue the ends on. It would prove to U if U have condensation or bad spark plugs.
__________________
U could put an electric solenoid valve hooked to a rubber hose into the bottom of the outlet tube and a push button or toggle switch to energize it at medium boost running the discharge into a piece of 3" plastic tube on the frame after 36,000 miles. Simply drain the tube/catch can with a ball valve occasionally or U could point it up and watch it like NASCAR popping off. Hardest thing would be to make the angle bracket to mount the white plastic tube to and glue the ends on. It would prove to U if U have condensation or bad spark plugs.
#43
So taking the snorkel out of the air box could be a bad thing in this case?
Like was said earlier. The Gotts Mod.
I took that snorkel out of my 2010 when I got it, and never had any issues. I got this new eco boost and took it out as well, but now thinking I should put it back in if people are having trouble sucking water.
Should I put it back in?
Like was said earlier. The Gotts Mod.
I took that snorkel out of my 2010 when I got it, and never had any issues. I got this new eco boost and took it out as well, but now thinking I should put it back in if people are having trouble sucking water.
Should I put it back in?
#45
It has to do with the humidity of the incomoming air. The intake air is compressed and then cooled causing the water to condense in the heat exchanger. once the heat exchanger fills enough for solid droplets to be forced into the intake stream it can cause the engine to misfire. Once this happens he engine goes into limp mode to protect itself.
Its not an actual problem with the engine, as it is with a mis-designed intake system.
A simple purge valve that releases water from the inter cooler would solve the issue, problem would be knowing when to blow it down.
Its not an actual problem with the engine, as it is with a mis-designed intake system.
A simple purge valve that releases water from the inter cooler would solve the issue, problem would be knowing when to blow it down.
There must be another source for water entering the system- it can't be from condensation.