If I send you an oil sample, will you test it for me?

 

I emailed the Castrol people and they still recommended 3,000 mile oil changes with synthetic because your oil gets contaminated from unburnt gas and driving conditions such as dust, ect.

 

They are just trying to sell oil. If you want to follow 3000 mile change intervals, synthetic is a waste of money, just use the cheap Motorcraft semi-syn.

 

That's what I've done for 255,000 miles. Adamant about changing every 3G so I opt for the Castrol Synthetic Blend.

I purchased the truck new in 98. Believe it or not, this 5.4L DOESN''T use or leak oil between changes.

I got a case of Amsoil Full Synthetic as a gift at one time. That stuff cleaned the engine so well , it plugged up the PCV system I gather with older engines , if you decide you want to run full synthetic, you should work you way up to extended change intervals...

 

Amsoil recommends you use their engine flush before you switch over to their oil on a vehicle that has high miles.

 

Ahaa, didn't know that, but now I know why. That crud even made it's as far as my IAC. At first I blamed the oil, but actually it was my fault. Since then, I use Amsoil in everything. That stuffs just amazing IMO. I get NO vibration in 4wd @ high speeds now. My tranny use to slip like a b^tch and I couldn't touch the dipstick while checking the fluid, without getting burned it was so hot. Amsoil made a huge difference in the trans. - Hits good, it's never hot, just a little warm. Trans hits great in every gear - No pause or slip. The truck drove like new again after Amsoiling the drivetrain. It was exspensive, but allot cheaper than trans

 

I'm not set up for independent oil analysis at the present. My laboratory is currently configured for sampling breast milk and studying the effects of breast implants on breast feeding.

I've got my hands full.

Let me get back to you when I retool the factory.

 

Hear say - Your joking right ? - Or do you have some kind of FRAM fetish ? What ever jward.
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Damn , this took all of two seconds to find ~

Filters To Avoid

The following list of filters have known problems. You will see well-known names here and will probably be disappointed. This is because many of these brands have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer.

Fram Extra Guard

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circuilating through my system. The oil passge to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard

Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure releif valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. Dupont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Penzoil

This filter is a Fram! It is the exact same design as the Fram Extra Guard filter and it is junk. On the up side, it costs $1 less than the Fram version.

Quaker State

This is another Fram Extra Guard that I have seen at K-mart. It used to be a Purolator, but Quaker State is now owned/controlled by Penzoil...


Kinduh rules out "here-say"and "speculation" Mr. ~


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Fram - brought to you by Honeywell Consumer Products, Inc., makers of Autolite and Prestone.

 

been having the oil serviced at ford every 5k for 50k and with motorcraft full syn. truck is my daily driver putting in about 250 mi/week. not to jinx myself, but truck has/is been running smooth/fine. although, i do have my doubts whether or not those guys are really putting in full syn in there

 

To any new truck owners planning on switching to full synthetic. I was at the dealership today and told them I had just switched. He asked what the mileage was and I told him I switched to full synth at exactly 10k. He said it should be perfectly fine but they do not recommend using full synth anytime before 10,000 miles. He said because it's so slick sometimes the seals wont seal properly if you make the switch too early.

 

That makes sense - Good mechanic

 

If it's Motorcraft oil, it's most likely semi-synthetic - but Motorcraft does have full synthetics too.