Alright, I guess I am going to do a little more research on the 1-2 accumulator to learn how to replace the spring. I don't want to just change the fluid. But changing the fluid and the spring would make me more happy. Not that I hope anything is broke, but I hope it will fix the problem. If not then down the road I may try to install a junk yard transmission or something.

 

Curious question, is there a full plug on the torque converter? I would assume that you just fill it by the dip stick. But rather be safe and ask.

 

No fill plug for the converter - you have to use the dipstick tube. Not sure of the exact procedure for filling it, maybe Darrin can help. I know you don't just dump 14 quarts in before starting the engine.

 

Well, I have finished other little projects I had going on. Now to this one. Transmission fluid is dark red and has a light burn smell. I checked the fluid on a flat surface while it was running at operating temperature. It is between the cross hatches. I did a road test with my girlfriend with me. Started from dead stop and floored it, it shifted hard from 1-2 and medium from 2-3. It was at speeds of 90ish miles per hour, slowed down before it shifted from 3-4. It felt delayed (maybe) on shifting from 1-2. I think it may be clutch pads/plates more then valve body?? I have heard once you have a burn smell that the damage is pretty much done. What do you guys think?

 

So how does it shift at normal throttle?

Not sure about the rest, but I will tell you that once the fluid smells burnt the damage has indeed been done, It doesn't have the capacity to heal itself, so what burnt itself up unfortunately stays that way until it gets worse or is replaced.

D

 

It still shifts pretty good at normal acceleration. Best thing I can think of for now is just go easy on her until it becomes a bigger problem. What do you guys think?

 

I'd still change the fluid.

 

I would have a fluid exchange as suggested by glc. I would also drop the pan after and check the 1-2 accumulator spring as suggested. While you are in there check the torque on the valve body bolts, change the filter and clean out the pan.

There are write ups on how to do all this stuff if you look and if you still don't want to tackle it find someone to do it for you. Ignoring a problem won't make it go away and it is far cheaper to fix it now than to just wait until the trans is toast.

 

If you have the TC drain plug, you don't have to use the exchange machine, and you will have the pan down anyway.

 

I'm planning on changing the fluid and filter. I will check to see if I have the tc drain plug, if not I could always unscrew the supply line from the cooler and let it run until the fluid is clean compared to an exchange machine. I will also attempt the 1-2 accumulator. The videos I've seen, there appears to be a snap ring the holds it in.

 

All 2001 trucks left the factory with a drain plug in the converter. The drain plug was deleted from production in August, 2001. The last 2001 truck was built in June or very early July of 2001.