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04 F150 Lost overdrive, servo clip broke
http://www.f150online.com/forums/tra...roke-pics.html

ISSUE
2004 Ford F150 lost overdrive, some of the symptoms of this include:
• No overdrive
• Shift right into neutral
• Not able to engine brake into 2nd gear
• If you turn of OverDrive, you can drive normally within the first three gears
This was caused by the overdrive servo retaining clip snap and lodged into the a valve on the valve body
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04 F150 Lost overdrive, servo clip broke (pics)

  #61  
Old 07-07-2012, 05:51 PM
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Q&a

Thanks for the response KC8FLB.

1) I put in 8 quarts of fluid which was to much, so i extracted fluid and made sure it registered correctly on the stick. I read all thread on this and researched other articles about the problem so I felt 8 was a good number. In my case 6 would of been a better estimate.
2) I did find every last piece of the clip, I made sure of this by reconstruction of the clip on a piece of tape under a magnify glass. I also checked the pistons in the valve body and made sure they were all moving freely. I didn't drop any check ***** (I was very careful). All bolt torque was done to specs.
3) This is where I think I have the problem, I didn't line anything up. I really don't know what to align with what. Ive been getting use to that proverbial sucking feeling for a while now sooo ohh well...

Can you suggest a reference on where I can find the method to line up the shift linkage to the shift valve. Is the shift valve a long sliding bar with a c-clip on it?

Thanks again.
 
  #62  
Old 07-07-2012, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by onetripper
Thanks for the response KC8FLB.

1) I put in 8 quarts of fluid which was to much, so i extracted fluid and made sure it registered correctly on the stick. I read all thread on this and researched other articles about the problem so I felt 8 was a good number. In my case 6 would of been a better estimate.
2) I did find every last piece of the clip, I made sure of this by reconstruction of the clip on a piece of tape under a magnify glass. I also checked the pistons in the valve body and made sure they were all moving freely. I didn't drop any check ***** (I was very careful). All bolt torque was done to specs.
3) This is where I think I have the problem, I didn't line anything up. I really don't know what to align with what. Ive been getting use to that proverbial sucking feeling for a while now sooo ohh well...

Can you suggest a reference on where I can find the method to line up the shift linkage to the shift valve. Is the shift valve a long sliding bar with a c-clip on it?

Thanks again.
Yes, the shift valve is the long piston valve with the c clip on it. If you have it wrong then when you shift into all the gears, it just won't be right. If you can manually go through all the gears with the shifter and it seems like it is stopping where it is supposed to be stopping for each gear and neutral then it is correct. If not take it apart and study the shift linkage under the valve body and look at the shift valve and it will be obvious what has to engage where and what needs to be lined up.
 
  #63  
Old 07-07-2012, 10:47 PM
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When you look at the shift valve, the linkage makes the shift valve move into each position it needs to be in to engage each gear or shift position
 
  #64  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:20 AM
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I own a 2004 f150

OK i followed the advice of this blog and when i opened up the trany like instructed tho o/d ring was fine but i replaced it anyways after reassembling it it is still doing the same thing there is no overdrive but as soon as i hit the o/d off it runs normal what else could it be the first person said he went trough the same thing but never re posted what he found out.. Which sucks I promise when i find out i will post if it works i go about 35 miles an hour and it goes like it is in neutral please please help
 
  #65  
Old 07-08-2012, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by stevebuckley
OK i followed the advice of this blog and when i opened up the trany like instructed tho o/d ring was fine but i replaced it anyways after reassembling it it is still doing the same thing there is no overdrive but as soon as i hit the o/d off it runs normal what else could it be the first person said he went trough the same thing but never re posted what he found out.. Which sucks I promise when i find out i will post if it works i go about 35 miles an hour and it goes like it is in neutral please please help
When you pulled out the od ring and the od piston servo did you remember to use a pick to push over the od band so that the tip of the od piston went into the hole made for it on the od band?

That od piston job is to move that od band inside the transmission. It must be engaged on the band itself. If you just take it out and put it back in, it won't work. No over drive. Band has to be engaged.

Also did you make sure that all of the cylinder valves in the valve body were able to move freely with a screwdriver? I guess one of those valves is for fourth gear and if it does not move freely, no fourth gear.
 
  #66  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:36 PM
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I am gonna drop the trans again and check it well i will post my result i will keep my fingers crossed thank you kc8flb for your quick response im hoping i missed something im poor lol
 
  #67  
Old 07-09-2012, 03:23 PM
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Up and running

Mine worked great after I lined up the shift linkage...Here is a great write up with pictures to help better understand whats going on inside the trans. I had never fixed an auto trans before so studying up helps.

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...Number=1460366

"Overdrive Servo/Spring Replacement" type that into crownvic.net if the link isnt working.
 
  #68  
Old 07-12-2012, 04:11 PM
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Hey guys, quick question. I have a 2004 with close to 125K on it. I'll be doing the cooler line method of fluid exchange, along with dropping the pan for a new filter here in the next 5K or so.

Do you think it would be prudent to go ahead and drop the VB while I have the pan off, and change the big and little circlips out? As a preventative measure?
 
  #69  
Old 07-13-2012, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Net Wurker
Hey guys, quick question. I have a 2004 with close to 125K on it. I'll be doing the cooler line method of fluid exchange, along with dropping the pan for a new filter here in the next 5K or so.

Do you think it would be prudent to go ahead and drop the VB while I have the pan off, and change the big and little circlips out? As a preventative measure?
Yes
 
  #70  
Old 08-20-2012, 07:43 PM
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I wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for this thread as I have had the same OD issue, and went through the procedure to fix it. On my truck, the retaining ring was broken, but just on the ends where the eyelets are, but it still seemed to be holding the servo in place properly. The problem is that after replacing the retaining ring and reassembling the transmission, I still have no overdrive. I did not push the OD band into place when re-installing it, so I know that is an issue, but here is my question...

If the ends of the servo clip were broken, but still holding the servo in place, is it worth it to open everything back up to put the band in place on the tip of the servo? It seems that if the servo was still in place than the broken retaining clip was not really the problem? What do you think?
 
  #71  
Old 08-20-2012, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by gbirk
I wanted to thank the OP and all contributors for this thread as I have had the same OD issue, and went through the procedure to fix it. On my truck, the retaining ring was broken, but just on the ends where the eyelets are, but it still seemed to be holding the servo in place properly. The problem is that after replacing the retaining ring and reassembling the transmission, I still have no overdrive. I did not push the OD band into place when re-installing it, so I know that is an issue, but here is my question...

If the ends of the servo clip were broken, but still holding the servo in place, is it worth it to open everything back up to put the band in place on the tip of the servo? It seems that if the servo was still in place than the broken retaining clip was not really the problem? What do you think?
Are you sure you found all of the broken pieces of the broken clip? Those little ground up pieces make their way into the valve body and stop some of the valves from opening or moving. I really had to spend some time cleaning my valve area and digging out little pieces of metal. My gear shift valve was really sticky. Make sure each and everyone of those valves moves freely with a flat head screwdriver. Make sure you don't scratch anything.

Also did you replace the big c clip that had the broken ends? Are you sure that the piston didn't come out a hair and come disengaged from the band?
 
  #72  
Old 08-20-2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by KC8FLB
Are you sure you found all of the broken pieces of the broken clip? Those little ground up pieces make their way into the valve body and stop some of the valves from opening or moving. I really had to spend some time cleaning my valve area and digging out little pieces of metal. My gear shift valve was really sticky. Make sure each and everyone of those valves moves freely with a flat head screwdriver. Make sure you don't scratch anything.

Also did you replace the big c clip that had the broken ends? Are you sure that the piston didn't come out a hair and come disengaged from the band?
Thank you for your response.
I am pretty sure I got all of the pieces and yes, it is the big c clip that had broken ends. I actually removed the servo, I assume that is the piston your are talking about.

My question is that if the big c clip just had broken ends, but was otherwise still intact and still holding the servo in place tightly (it was a real bear to get it out with both ends of the c clip broken off) the overdrive should have been working right? So maybe I have something else wrong with the over drive and pulling everything apart again to put the tip of the piston in place on the indentation in the OD band properly won't fix the OD and is just wasting time and fluid.
 
  #73  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by gbirk
Thank you for your response.
I am pretty sure I got all of the pieces and yes, it is the big c clip that had broken ends. I actually removed the servo, I assume that is the piston your are talking about.

My question is that if the big c clip just had broken ends, but was otherwise still intact and still holding the servo in place tightly (it was a real bear to get it out with both ends of the c clip broken off) the overdrive should have been working right? So maybe I have something else wrong with the over drive and pulling everything apart again to put the tip of the piston in place on the indentation in the OD band properly won't fix the OD and is just wasting time and fluid.
It's up to you. If it were me, I would catch the fluid in a clean pan or bucket and reuse it. I would make sure to open the top of the valve body and make sure all of the valves functioned or moved freely. I would also pull the servo and reinstall it making sure that it contacted the band hole.

The alternative is very expensive.
 
  #74  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:21 PM
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Thank you for your help. I very much appreciate it. I think I will pull it apart again and I'll post back with my results.
 
  #75  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gbirk
Thank you for your help. I very much appreciate it. I think I will pull it apart again and I'll post back with my results.
it is frustrating taking out all back apart again, I had to do it myself. Take your time and double check everything . Good luck
 

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