You need to make sure that the servo pin makes correct contact to the hole in the overdrive band. The band has to physically be pushed into position when installing the servo or or it will never make contact and you will not have overdrive.

The other thing is they need to make sure that and broken prices of the c clip are recovered and are not such in the valve body which may also cause not being able to use overdrive.

Take it to an independent transmission shop. They probably have seen this a few times.

 

first of all this is an awesome post and thanks for all that has given their time.

second, i have this same problem and i took it to a shop cause its been raining and no place to do it in the dry. the shop fixed the broken retainer clip but still no overdrive says the band is burnt out of it and needs a new band. is this a good possiability or do you guys think he forgot to engauge the servo to the retainer. i'm hoping he did could save me a thousand bucks. just wondering what todo.

 

Thanks to the forum. I started this repair last night. One puzzle i have run into is that i found this part in the botton of the transmission fluid pan. Anyone have and idea of what it is and where it goes. Truck is a 2004 5.4 FX4 SuperCrew. Purchased it new in 2004. Has 106,000 miles. Transmission has never been opened until now.

 

Nevermind. Found it on another thread here. It is a plug for the dipstick hole during assembly. Once the dipstick is installed it drops into the pan and stays there until the first pan removal. This is a great site.

 

I wanted to say thanks to all that contributed to this thread. I had my clip break on Wed night and because of this thread I was 99% sure that this was my problem. I bought all the parts needed before I even took it apart. Not all ford dealers stock these parts so I had to look around town to find one that did. Because of you all I had it all fixed last night. My ring and servo I think were still working but my broken piece was down in the body in the same location as OP's. So thankful for all the added resources to help with the details and I didn't have to buy the service manuals.

Thanks again

 

This thread is a god send.

The amount of instructions/testimonies here are amazing. I tried several shops describing the problem, and every one of them wanted to start with a rebuild. Even after I had bought the parts and necessary tools, I was still leery of doing this until I re-read the entire thread this morning.

After chocking the wheels and getting the front end up in the air. I dropped my pan (didn't buy a new one, so I didn't punch a whole in it), then proceeded to pull the wire harness, and remove the valve body. As soon as I got it down I could see the first broken tab laying on top of the valve body just like other pictures I've seen. After looking at the snap ring I realized I still have a a second missing piece somewhere. So I had to pull the cover off the valve body, and it took a while for me to find it. I was just about to give up and go looking through the filter and waste oil for it, when it reared it's ugly little head. It wasn't in the same whole as the picture earlier in the post, so I think one of these things could end up pretty much anywhere. It was however the culprit causing my loss of OD. It took a pretty good tug with a pair of tweezers to get it out, and I heard the valve snap back in place as soon as it came out.



I do have the cracking on the reinforcement plate that I've seen talked about in other threads. I wasn't able to source one of these reinforcement plates however, so I'm wondering how long I have on this guy.



Next, I've spend about 5 hours so far trying to get the darn snap ring out. After about 5 cuts from slamming my fingers into the sharp edges around the servo holes, trying to use picks and screwdrivers, I have resorted to trying to cut a slot in the middle of the ring, using a cobalt hand saw blade. Unfortunately that doesn't seem to have weakened it enough to break. I think tomorrow I'm going to try and cut the slots at the ends like the broken pieces originally were.

I'm actually pretty confident that leaving the broken snap ring in place and putting it back together would have worked given that I was able to locate the jammed valve, but I would rather just get it done right. I did buy a replacement servo along with the clip though, so I might as well put it in along with verifying that it is still engaging the OD band properly.

Thanks again.

 

I looked at the OP picture again, And realized my broken piece of snap ring was in the exact same slot, and in the exact same position.

 

Astrahsburg, I had similar trouble getting the snap ring out. I went and bought a pair of needle nose vice grips. Push the servo up into the trans (I used a bottle jack) so you can get a good hold of it. It came out easy for me this way. I wouldn't try cutting it at all for risk of scoring the wall.

Hope this helps.

 

Hello all. First, thank science for this thread! Lots of good info in here.

Unfortunately, I have run into a problem.

I suspected a broken clip like in the OP, so I bought one, and finally got around to taking the tranny apart. Before this, however, I have been getting "trans fault" codes when the truck is cold. It drove fine once it warmed up, sans overdrive. The truck would shudder a bit and then the trans fault would come up on the dash. If I turned off the truck, and back on, the code went away. I figured that the fluid and filter had never been changed, and it was probably contaminated. Turns out, it was pretty dirty, but I don't know if that's it.


When I took the valve body off, I found one piece of the clip on top of the VB, and after taking it apart, the other piece was lodged in the same spot as the OP. I got it out, and verified that the valve would now move. I checked the other ones too, and they all seemed fine.

A couple of those ***** fell out when I tipped it sideways to get the fluid to drain a bit, but I put them all back. I am 99.9% certain that I got them all back where they need to be.

I was NOT able to get the old clip out, but the part that broke was pretty small, and it looked like the clip was still doing it's job, so I decided to put it back together and see what happened.

Got it all buttoned up, making sure to get the shift valve in the right spot, and that electrical harness thing clipped back in.

I added 7 quarts, let it warm up, then added another. I idled in R and D for a few minutes each. Checked the fluid levels, and it seemed ok. I took it out around the block, and for the first bit, it seemed great. I had high hopes that I'd have OD back. Then I THINK it tried to shift into OD, and began slipping, but I'm not sure, because I had come up on a stop sign. When I try to take off again, it hesitates, then grabs, and goes. Same at the next stop. So, I decide it's time to turn around to see if another quart is needed. Halfway home (I'm only about 3-4 blocks out), it just wont go. Feels like someone has a manual trans in gear, and is BARELY letting off the clutch. Just enough for it to start to make contact, but not enough to get the wheels turning. Luckily, I discover that reverse still works just fine, so I have to drive backwards all the way home. What a trip.

Got it home, dipstick is pretty dry. Add two more quarts, let it sit in D at idle for 5 minutes or so... still nothing. If I rev it up in D, 2, or 1, it throws a "trans fault" on the instrument cluster. Reverse works fine though, so I backed it back into the garage.

Now, I really don't know what I could have done to screw this up. Seemed OK for a few blocks, then bam, no forward gears. I intend to tear into it this weekend, as I'm pretty burnt out now. Anyone have any thoughts? I have been off work all winter, and really can't afford a big mechanic bill.

Thanks in advance.

 

i just had the same problem with my od servo retaining ring. took it apart the retaining was broke but was still holding the servo in place. my question is, if the servo never came out of place do i still have to reset the od band? because i can not find a hole or notch in it.

 

Bump. Anyone?

 

I have Almost the same problem Instead Mine the reverse is now a neutral But i feel it engage onto reverse but on idle it will move on level ground if i press the throttle it wont move any faster

 

Great information by the original post starter. I used this post as reference for one of my recent repairs (even borrowed a few pictures :grin: )

anyway, I fixed my buddies 2004 F-150 and upgraded the valve body for better shifting. this is known as the J-mod.

check out my post on Ford-truck.com;

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12...ion-j-mod.html

 

Anyone have part numbers for the gaskets needed?

 

What year is your truck?

these are the gaskets for 2001+

1W7Z-7D100-AB
1L3Z-7C155-AA

filter part # is FT105D