I have a 96 with an e4od with the same problems. Revs out when trying to shift into OD. Could this be the same problem?

 

I have a 96' with e4od tranny. When I get up to 50 the engine just revs out and I have to turn off OD. I assume this is the same problem and am planning to attempt the fix. Is the fix going to be similar to the 04' fix?

 

If you put it all back together with old gaskets they probably won't seal up and leaks will malf the trany again.

 

Unfortunately your E4od's problems are NOT going to be as simple as a broken snap ring that holds the o/d servo in, its a completely different transmission, Smitty

 

I completely agree, a simple tear in one passsage of a vb gasket will cause a cross leak or a loss of oil pressure, definately use new gaskets as insurance and in general they sholud NOT block any holes in the seperator plate or they are the wrong ones, Smitty

 

I just wanted to say thanks to all who have contributed to the thread. My father has a 2004 F-150 and it this this 'over-rev' problem a couple of times over a couple of months, but would go back to working normal. That is until we were on a trip 600 miles from home when OD went out alltogether. WE made it back home in 3rd (about 70MPH, but raised the RPMs by about a third). Gas milage wasn't great, but I have made that trip before in that truck when towing trailers (also in 3rd gear - no towing in OD!!!). My dad took it into a local shop and was given an 'estimate' of $1,800. He put it off until after a trip.

Anyways, while he was on vacation, I read over this thread, gathered the parts and dug in, and guess what I found? Surprise - the c-clip had just the tip broken off! (Nobody is really surprised by now, are they?) The piece was stuck in the boost valve just like the original posted showed.

The clip cost $2.23 (including tax), a new filter (and pan gasket) only cost about $12, and I picked up 6 quarts of Mercon V (at about $6.10/quart) - but I ended up needing 10.5. There were valve body gaskets available at the dealer if I needed them (If in doubt, replace them). The original pan gasket was a reusable type - and I would suggest reusing it if it isn't broken (as do the instruction inthe filter kit).

After seeing how little of the clip broke off (at the weakest point of the 'eye'), I decided NOT to remove and replace the clip. Here's why:
1) There is a risk of damaging the bore while trying to get it out.
2) The old part was still functioning (holding the servo piston in place).
3) A new clip would have had an extra end to break off and get stuck in the booster valve again. This way I only have one 'weak' part left to the clip'.
4) The 'new' clip had a burr on the spot where the 'old' one broke - at the eyes. I would have had to file off the burrs in order to get it completely flat. (I wonder how many of these issues are caused by the originals having burrs)?

There were three extra pieces of information that I needed...

I accidentally tipped the ***** out of place, so I needed to know where they went. It is pretty obvious, but a diagram always helps (there are eight of them):
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1ny8n...-problems.html

Then, when reassembling, I knew there was a torque value and sequence to the valve body bolts. I used a 1/4" torque wrench from Harbor Freight (<$20) that I had bought seval years ago for a different transmission project. Here is the torque sequence and value (89 in-lb - last page):
http://www.imarksweb.org/aws/view.ph...5vdGVzLnBkZg==

That same file had the pan bolts torqued to 10 ft-lb (120 in-lb).

Hope that helps somebody else....Thanks again!

 

Ok guys, I'm working on replacing my retaining ring right now and I just ran across something funky in my transmission. Maybe I'm being paranoid but, someone please look at this picture and tell me that it's supposed to be this way This is a hole above the "pump outlet screen" (taken laying on my back, tranny is still in the truck) and it just looks wrong. The edges are rough all the way around and it looks more like a piece of the casting broke out than an intentional passage. Is this normal?

P.S. I had converter shutter followed by losing OD, I then drove the truck for a week with OD turned off and everything was fine. Yesterday, I lost all forward gears and reverse so I'm going ahead with this fix and then going to try to figure out what else blew up.

Behind this

Is this...

 

Look at it with a magnifying glass. When I blow up the picture the edges of the hole don't look fresh they look smoothed over. I don't believe this is your transmission problem. Seems like you have internal wear problems. You must have some chunks in the area if it broke out. Obviously you have not found any.

 

Thanks papa. I got her back on the road just a few hours ago. I guess that opening for the pump outlet is just supposed to be all jagged and rough. My OD servo retaining ring was not broken, nor was anything else out of place, just had really dirty fluid and a LOT of metal shavings on the magnet. Truck has nearly 96k on it and, to my knowledge, was never flushed. I took the valve body apart completely and cleaned everything up, cleaned the pan and magnet, then put it all back together and flushed it per XPerties instructions (minus cutting the line and adding the inline filter- just unscrewed the return line from the *tiny* trans cooler). She is now driving and shifting like brand new! I had no idea that dirty fluid could cause a complete failure like that...

*EDIT* Hit the road for work today and truck was shifting fine with Superchips "Performance" tune reinstalled. Traffic slowed from ~70mph to ~40mph then picked back up again...but my truck didn't. Spun up to 4500rpm and then grabbed and lugged down the highway so I got off at the next exit and barely made it into a parking lot before I lost all forward gears again. Reverse was still working fine so I was able to back it into my driveway once we pulled it off the flatbed. I'm guessing my clutches are toast so I started pulling the tranny tonight and will be looking into a rebuild.

 

Are you sure that the 'boost' valve didn't have anything stuck in it? The place where broken rings and clips get caught is right there where the original poster showed...it is the ONLY place where there is a wedge (angle groove) on the wall. It is shaped that way so that it isn't just open or closed, but throttling (less open-less flow, more open-more flow).

Reverse gear uses the least amount of pressure to engage. Did you try any gears, like manual second or manual first?

Sorry to hear about the troubles.

 

@Brian - Sorry for the delay, my wife went into labor Wednesday morning and it kinda put this project on hold I took the valve body apart completely, removed all the valves, and cleaned everything up. My servo clip wasn't even broken so there weren't any pieces to look for; I simply misdiagnosed my issue because it started out with exactly the same symptoms as the OP. I've ordered a rebuild kit and the Sonnax Sure Cure kit, once they arrive and I get a chance to tear into the tranny I'll post up what I find.

 

I just wanted to thank everyone who has contributed to this thread. On Christmas day, I was on my way to visit my family when the trans on my faithfull truck appeared to have failed - in a really bad spot. I killed the overdrive and limped to a service station to check things out. To make a long story short, the small e-clip on the end of the servo piston had broken off.

After reading this thread four or five times, I decided to dig in. With very careful cleaning and inspection, I found the tiny piece stuck in a spool valve of the main body. Problem being, it wedged itself into a cavity [I]under[I] the valve in-between fluid passages. I'm pretty sure that even if I found a shop to try and repair the problem, they would've replaced the valve body rather than take the 2 hours I spent surgicaly removing the broken piece.

10 quarts, new servo piston (they dont sell the little clip seperate), new retaining clip, 3 gaskets and a filter later...success! And on the first try...

Big, Big thanks Guys!!! My advice to anyone else (especially novices like me) is to take your time, clean EVERYTHING, and keep looking until you find ALL of the broken pieces. Be especially careful with the "bridge clip" for the electrics and use a good quality torque wrench, and torque everything to spec. Take a bunch of pictures during tear down and cleaning. Do it once, do it right.

Happy Holidays!!

 

Hey guys, I have an 05 f150 with the same issue. I got the two little broken pieces out, but unfortunately I can not get the rest of the clip out. Its still intact, but I've tried everything i could think of to get it out, and its just not working. about all of the ring is left intact, the only pieces that were broken were a little on both the ends, which makes it more difficult to remove the rest. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Use a bottle jack or a regular jack with a rid on the end (I used a socket) to jack up the servo piston enough to dig out the clip with awl screwdriver needle nose pliers or small vice grips. Once you have the piston jacked up enough there should be no pressure on the clip and it should be alot easier to remove.

 

Just before christmas had the same issue and took it to a ford shop and the big ring was broken the replaced the servo filter and fluid. Got all the pieces out, servo moved freely and still have a no overdrive. They said it could possibly be internally. Ive already spent $500 i dont $3000 to replace the tranny. Any suggestions?