For those who have a 4R70W Factory Tech Valve Body, how is your wot 2-3 shift? Mine is very quick, but only mildly firm. In comparison with the 1-2, under wot, which is VERY HARD and very quick. So they both shift with the same quickness, although the 1-2 is MUCH harder.

I have no complaints. I just want to know other users experiences.

 

Yup, mine is like you are describing. The 1-2 his very hard!!! The others are just nice and quick, like it should of been from the factory. In retrospect I wish the 1-2 wouldn't be as hard and break the tires loose like it does. But, I doubt I will ever open it back up and swap the springs, mainly due to the fact I don't have the stock springs anymore. It can get annoying after a while.

-Brian

 

Do you really think it's too hard? I haven't gottne much feedback on these yet, (less than 50 built so far, so it's kind of new), I can alter the instructions to have a "better" tune, or offer a choice for less harsh shifting on the 1-2 shift, if you think that would be better. Brina, if you really would like to do it, I'll send you the stock spings, or maybe you can alter it by removing the inner red spring, just leaving the big one it, that would soften it up a little. If you try it, let me know how it feels, if it's too harsh, I'd like to at least include instructions for a less harsh shift in the future.

G

 

mine is HARD and loving it! today i put my chip in so its gonna be hard and HARDER! i wish it was harder

 

Installed mine Thursday, and yes the 1-2 shift is much harder than the others.

I also am noticing sometimes,what seems like a slight shudder or hesitation after the 2-3 shift when (I think - correct me if I'm wrong) the torque converter locks up.

Also does anyone else notice any new noises from the trans - mine sounds like a whine sometimes at low speed or when you are moving out of park (with the brakes) on to rev. or od?

Mine also made what I would describe like a space ship taking off ( whirling sound that was rising in pitch) while I was trying to get the fluid level correct after installing the vb and flushing the system.

I think my fluid level was just too low at the time, but it kinda scared me at the time so I shut it off real quick.

My truck won't chirp the tires though, I think I have too much weight in the bed (work stuff) and the 3/4 drop,Roadmaster suspension keep my weight distributed too evenly. It does squeal the drive belt extremely well now at WOT - need to put the Gatorback belt on that's been sitting in the garage for a while.

Greg, you might want to put a note in your instructions warning about the 1-2 accumulator piston and retainer launching out when the snap ring is removed - someone could get hurt by that. Also I found a small screen in the bucket that I didn't notice had fallen out when I removed the vb. It took me a while to find its home in the case.
Also you mentioned to me before about, I think a billet accumulator piston that you had deleted from the kits. The 1-2 piston in mine had some slight tears on the seals. Will this cause me any issues? I think the billet with o-rings would be better if it matters. And lastly, was the new 2-3 bottle cap supposed to fit snugly in the bore or do the springs just hold the point of the cap against the groove in the VB? Also, should I reset the computer by disconnecting the battery for a while so the trans will adapt itself again from scratch?

If anyone with the FTVB is ever in the Nashville area it would be nice to drive and compare how our trucks shift.

Anthony

2001 Supercrew 4X2
5.4L V8 4R70W 3.55LS

 

How is the install on these FTVB? I've been thinking about something. Oh, and if I go to the 10 turn road track or auto-X will I have any problems?

 

Overall the install is pretty staight forward, but messy. That should be expected with any internal tranny work. Just take your time

HiOsilver'01 brought up some good points to watch out for. In fact some were the same things I ran into. Also make sure you put the correct valve body bolts in their perspective places. Some are longer then others. Don't forget the manual shift linkage either! I put the FTVB on and had the linkage one groove off. Luckily the bolts were only hand tight. Use some assembly grease to hold the small screen in place(it will only fit in one place). The 2-3 cap basically just sits in place and the valve body holds it in after assembly. I wish there were some sort of factiry retaining ring. I would have slept better knowing it was securly in place.

I don't have any new noises though. Except the major tire chirps at wot!

 

Okay, I'm 1/2-way through the install. Family and work leaves me with only about an 30 minutes a day to work on my Expy. I do my grimy stuff in the mornings, before showering for work.

I've got most of the fluid out (pumped the pan through the cooler lines, uncorked the TC, let everything sit overnight). I've got the OE valve body removed.

I'm planning on bolting up the FTVB tomorrow morning.

1> What's this screen that you're talking about? I don't recall seeing a little screen laying around anywhere. Hope I didn't lose it.

2> Compared to the OE valve body, several of the bolt holes in the lower metal plate on the FTVB aren't threaded, so I can't use the OE bolts to hold that plate to the FTVB. There are also fewer lower plate bolt holes, compared to the OE valve body. There are probably about 5 of these holes in the lower metal plate that don't exist on the FTVB. These are the 1" 10MM bolts that hold the steel lower plate to the aluminum valve body, not the longer 8MM bolts that hold the valve body to the tranny housing. Big deal, or no? Am I staring some of the performance tuning right in the face and don't know it?

3> Which way does the point on the 'bottle cap' go? Up or down? When I pulled the OE valve body I found the bottle cap laying on top of the valve body, and the spring was sitting sideways in the bore, so I have no point of reference.

Thanks,

Tim ==

 

You didn't need to take out the 10mm bolts, they only hold the plate to the vb.

The point on the bottle cap goes down and the vb holds it in place, although mine stayed up in the 2-3 accum. when I removed the oe vb.

This will come in handy also, thanks to AjRagno.

vb torque sequence

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=119102



Check my gallery for some pics that I took during my install.

HiO

FTVB install on 4r70W

2001 F150 Supercrew XLT 4X2
5.4L V8 3.55LS 4r70w

edit: The screen on mine fell out when I removed the vb, but I didn't notice it.
I found it hiding in the pan of fluid when the 1-2 accum. piston launched as I removed the snap ring.

 

I didn't remove the 'plate bolts', except to test the 'curious' holes.

Does the 1-2 piston launch hard enough to cause physical damage to the piston, or the "launchee?"

AND THANKS VERY VERY MUCH FOR THE KICKASS PICTORIAL!!

Best regards,

Tim ==

2000 Expy XLT 4x4
4.6L
OE 3.53 ring & pinions
SuperChips MAX MicroTuner
FlowMaster Force II
Air filter box cutaway mod
WMS Racing Velocity Tube
K&N FilterCharger
Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar
Air Lift Company 1000 Load Assist Rear Springs
Troyer Performance underdrive pulleys
Flex-A-Lite dual-15" electric fan
Factory Tech 4R70W Valve Body
DRLs added with custom harness
AutoMeter electrical Transmission Temperature gauge
Alpine 9813
Polk db6500 in each door
Orion 275 SX
2x Orion Xtreme DVC 12" in sealed enclosure

 

The different bolt pattern for the plate is nothing to worry about, Ford just decided it didn't need as many bolts anymore. Different models get different plates. The bottlecap points down, toward the valve body when it's installed.
Whne you remove the sanp ring on the piston, you need to hold the cover up with a screwdriver to avoid the cork effect. Sorry about that, the instructions are still a work in progress, things I jsut don't even think about anymore are always as obvious as I think they are.


G

 

When reinstalling the 1-2 piston with the new springs, I was able to hold the 1-2 piston cover in place with my index finger, through the snap ring. It took about 20-25# of pressure. I imagine the same technique could be used during removal.

 

What's the reasoning behind the snap-ring on the 2nd step of the manual shift piston? It doesn't seem to be doing anything.

 

Okay, it's in, it's done. The shift changes feel GREAT. Fast as all hell, and really solid. Interestingly enough, the 1-2 shift in low range is...neck breaking, even barely off idle.

However, the 1-2 WOT shift won't break the tires loose on my 5600# plus Expedition 4.6L 4x4 :-< That's with the SuperChips pressure on max.

While I was at it, I filled the tranny, and the transfer case, with Amsoil ATF. I also put a B&M drain plug in the tranny pan, and had it welded in place.

Tomorrow I'll fill the diffs with Amsoil gear lube, and wire up my tranny temp gauge, DRLs, and subwoofer amplifier. WHEE!

 

xpanmanx,

I wondered the same thing in regards to the snap ring on the manual shift shaft? I guess if my stock vb used it then it's ok.


My truck had no torq. con. drain plug, but 10.5 total, maybe 11 qts of ATF, came out. That is probaly what would come out in a typical ATF change(without a flush that is). Problem is, next time I won't be taking out the vb, so I won't be able to get out nearly as much.