Securing Rear Blocks

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Old 11-06-2002, 07:11 PM
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Securing Rear Blocks

What's the best way to secure rear blocks so that they will not move or slip? Are you suppose to weld lift blocks on top of the factor blocks or will the truck's weight and U-block be enough to keep everything in place?
 
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Old 11-08-2002, 12:35 AM
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just put them in and tighten the bolts. they will be ok. do not weld. recheck after 1000 mile or so. and you will be ok
 
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Old 11-08-2002, 02:10 AM
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do our trucks even have factory blocks??????
 
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Old 11-08-2002, 10:22 PM
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crain is probably referring to the flat-topped bracket welded to the top of the axle that the the leaf spring sits on.

.....................Scott
 
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Old 11-09-2002, 12:46 PM
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Scott D,

You are right. I was referencing the bracket welded to the top of the axle between it and the leaf springs...blocks arrived the other day and now that I see them, I can clearly see the difference. I sent the add-a-leaf back and got a 1 and 1/2" rear block set and U bolt to add to the spindles to level the truck out. I don't know what I am doing, but I am going to do the install myself...may turn out to be more pain than joy. I don't know what size ball joint tool and pitman arm puller is needed or if one size fits all. I need to purchase these tools because I don't have any. ANy suggestions???
 
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Old 11-09-2002, 07:41 PM
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The blocks do not need any welding. The Haynes repair manual will walk you through replacing the spindle (aka steering knuckle) and dropping the axle.

When I replaced my springs with the add-a-leafs, I jacked the rear of the truck as high as I could and placed jackstands on the level part of the frame under the rear of the cab. With the rear wheels off and a jack under one side of the rear axle, I loosened the ubolts and then let the axle down onto a jackstand just enough so it would clear the spring (you'll have to drop it enough to fit in the block). Then I put a jack stand under the front nose of the differential so it would not rotate when I let the other side loose. Then repeated for the other spring. It took 5 jack stands!

I did try replacing one spring before loosening the other side, but the uneven angle of the axle kept the locater pins on the spring from lining up properly. You may be able to do them one at a time if you are putting 1.5" blocks rather than a tall add-a-leaf. This would definately be easier than having the whole axle loose.

It helps to spray penetraing oil on all the nuts and bolts the night before (especially the ubolts).

You also can borrow a ball joint puller from a local auto store or rent one from your local rental shop. Take a look at the space under your upper balljoint nut - the puller you get needs to fit inside the spindle (steering knuckle). I used a 2-arm gear puller that I got at Sears (0-6" spread) - it worked but barely. Pitman arm puller works better.

Loosen the balljoint and tierod-end nuts 4 or 5 turns but do not take them off all the way - this will keep things from flying when the joint comes loose. Apply all the tension you can with the puller and then you may have to tap the puller bolt with a big hammer to get it to break loose.

Take your time and have fun- you will learn alot about your truck!
 

Last edited by Scott D; 11-09-2002 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-10-2002, 07:31 AM
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Scott D,

Thanks again for the detail feedback and instructions. I will look for a Haynes repair manual to be on the safe side. I see you live in NC. If near Raleigh, I could always use some help on the job. After the install prices some of the shops here quoted me and the amount of time they wanted to keep my truck, I decided to do this job myself. Hopefully, I am not making a mistake.

I will let you know how it all turns out.

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-11-2002, 02:56 PM
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After a year of reading about spindle lifts on this board, I finally got mines installed...ProComp. I didn't think I could do it, but I did the install myself...thanks to all the help on this board.

The install was actually pretty simple, but the brake caplier nuts were as tight as a bear. I am glad I went with Procomp. While they push the front wheels out some, it is not as noticable as I thought it would be. The look and ride is great.

The alignment is off...I had to adjust the tie rods a bit in order to test drive my truck after the install. I am going to get the alignment done this week.

I also purchased a cam bolt kit to help with the alignment. Will any alignment shop know how to install the cam bolt kit and do I need to find one that work with lifted trucks?

Thanks again for everyones help.
 
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Old 11-11-2002, 07:42 PM
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Congratulations crain! Most alignment shops should know. Anyway just call and ask them about the camber kit - if they don't know what you are talking about, call someone else. You may not need it anyway with the Procomp spindles.

Did you do the lift blocks too?

Post some pics if you get a chance.............Scott
 
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Old 11-12-2002, 09:56 AM
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Scott D,

I am going with a set of Fabtech 1 and 1/2 blocks for the rear. I returned the add-a-leaf that I ordered earlier. Customer service reps love it when you change your mind...not.

The blocks have not arrived yet, but I do expect them today. Since I don't need to drive my truck much this week, I decided to install the spindles yesterday while I had some time on my hands.

I got everyone's info about installing the blocks but it sounds more complicated than I am willing to tackle...beside, I don't have all the jacks need to lift and lower the rear. I will probably take my truck to a shop to finish it off and get the alignment completed this week. But knowing me, I might try to complete the install myself.

After that, I will look into getting some pictures to post.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 11-13-2002, 11:26 PM
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Maybe someone else has some advice on installing 1.5 inch blocks.

It seems to me that if you can do one block at a time, the procedure would be very easy - just jack up one corner onto a jackstand, take off the wheel, take the weight off one end of the axle with your jack, loosen ubolts, and slip in the block.

??
 
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Old 11-14-2002, 06:20 AM
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Question

Scott D,

That sounds simple and I believe I could do one side at a time, if it would work. I don't have a clear picture of how to use the jacks and 5 jack stands in my mind. I get the image in my mind of trying to balance the truck. I wish had my own lift or access to one.

I found a shop that will install the blocks for $90-$120 depending on "What they run into." It's a little steep for an hours work, but better than $500-$750 based on what everyone else quoted me to install the entire lift (spindles, blocks, and alignment).

My truck is just setting this week for the most part, but I have a question about rubbing. I turned the tie-rods about an inch or maybe more on the driver's side to straighten it out just to drive my truck after installing the spindles and recently I noticed when backing and turning inward that the tires on the driver's side rub against the truck's frame.

I suppose the rubbing is due to the fact that I turned the tie rods too much and the truck has not been aligned as of yet. What do you think?
 
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Old 11-14-2002, 10:03 PM
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Most likely the rubbing is due to your "jiffy alignment", especially if the steering wheel was not centered, or if you did not move each side an equal amount when you eyeballed the toe-in. I can't imagine it would rub after the spindle lift otherwise.

Maybe someone else on the board will chime in on adding one lift block at a time.

.........Scott
 
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Old 11-23-2002, 09:28 PM
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Scott...

My new suspension lift is finished and I completed the install myself (with the help of my neighbor) for the rear lift. The 1.5 inch blocks were not hard to install at all and they fit prefect.

My truck looks like a 4x4 with 265/75R 16 wheels and the ride is great!!! I just regret waiting so long to install the spindle lift with blocks. I am probably overly cautious about adding stuff to my truck that might affect the factory ride...truly the spindle lift is the best way to go for us 2WD guys that want the height and no compromise on ride quality.

I am going to hold off on posting pictures until next spring when I add new wheels and a new front end. Thanks for all the advice.

Oh ya, it was my "jiffy alignment" that made my front right tire rub against the bottom of the truck's frame...no rubbing anymore when I make a hard turn.
 
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Old 11-24-2002, 09:09 PM
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Here's to your new ride.


Were you able to put the blocks in one at a time?

I agree on the the ride after the spindle lift, shocks and springs. Much improved.

Post those pictures when you can.

..........Scott
 


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