So just bought this for $100 bucks. Guy said it was a one inch lift. My stock blocks look to be 1.25" on the pad. These measure 3" ummm is that going to mean 1.75" of lift?

And they are aluminum and don't have nylock nuts or lock washers and no instructions?

Did I get hosed? I think they are too tall for what I want. I want 1.5" max lift after taking out the stock blocks.
I also read that aluminum blocks with pressed in pins are not recommended??? Anyone confirm this??



Anyone know who makes this kit?

 

I wouldn't say you got hosed, but I would say both of you were a little misinformed overall. Whatever they measure too minus what your stock ones are is how much lift you'll get over stock when you swap them out. So if those are 3" and yours are 1.25" thick, then you'll get 1.75" of lift over what you had.

The problem I can see based off the conversation you had with the seller is you only discussed how much lift he received instead of actual thickness of the block. The problem there being is that not all trucks came with the same size block in the rear. It varied with the packages, years, 4x4 or 2x4, etc.

Can't say whether you'll have problems or not, some trucks have had problems with aluminum blocks, usually trucks that put out high amounts of torque such as diesels and some trucks have ran them just fine.

 

They are a solid anodized block. Couldn't find any ba problems with solid ones only cast or hollow lift blocks. But I then saw the ready lift ones that have the bump stop in them and are slightly angled for pinion degree.

Hmm I'm thinking of taking them back to him and having him order the ready lifts. Who knows!!

 

You should get 1.75" extra out of those if it's 3" because your stock ones are indeed 1.25". I don't like aluminum, but it's solid aluminum vs. welded up steel, so they're probably of very similar strength (minus maybe the studs?) and some argue the solid aluminum to be stronger. There ain't a whole lot of instruction needed though (though I had a bit of a tough time the first time I tried ). I don't think my Autospring ones came with instructions, but I could be wrong.

How much of a level did you do up front? If 2.5", your truck will look great, if 2", you'll probably want less rake. I did 2" up front and 2" out back on my truck and it looks how I want it to personally. All Ready-Lift stuff is way overpriced in my opinion.

 

Yes, I did a 2" in the front HBS spacer I\m at exactly 39.5" at the center of wheel well all the way around. So If I block the back with these 3" blocks I'm looking at hitting 41.25 in the back, more rake than I want really. I'd rather be at 40.5" in the back.

I may have to try and get them machined, trim the block by .750" and then lengthen the pin holes.

 

I think doing that would cost way more in labor than its worth. Just return them and get what you want. My Autospring blocks have been good so far

 

This.

Trying to get them machined down is going to be way more of a pain, risk the integrity of the block, etc. You'd be better off returning them.

Instruction wise, you just loosen up the stock u bolts on one side, jack up the rear end until there's enough space to get the factory block out and new block in, swap the blocks and u bolts, and lower back down and tighten everything up. Then repeat for the other side, and don't forget to support the truck under the frame with a jackstand since you'll be working underneath of it.

Depending on how rusted your factory u-bolts are, you may want to spray them a few hours or even a day before with some penetrating oil to help loosen them, or do I like I did and just cut them off.

 

Ended up taking aluminum ones back and going with a Truxxx. 2" steel block. So depending on my factory block I will get 1/2"- 3/4" rear lift.

Ford lists 6 different part numbers for rear blocks on these trucks lol.

 

Yup, the easiest and quickest solution is to go lay under your truck with a measuring tape. You can have the block measure in the time it'd take you just to fire up your computer to google it.

 

Sounds good!