I got her lowered this past Saturday. (11-12-11)
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...yesterday.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/su...thread-17.html

The FRONT:
First, let me say .... do not try this unless you really are sure what your're doing!

Here are the specs for 2WD shocks versus 4WD shocks as to lengths.

....................2WD shock compd to .... 4X4 shock ....... 4X4 shock minus 1.31" (1-5/16")
Body Length ..............15.200"............... 16.875"
Compressed Length .... 15.700" .............. 17.330" ........... 16.020"
Extended Length ........ 20.950" .............. 21.940" ........... 20.630"
Travel Length ............ 5.250" ................ 4.610"

Note that the third column representing modified 4X4 struts / shocks / whatever compressed length is longer than 2WD shocks by a hair and that the extended length is just a hair shorter which means the total range of travel is still 4.610" as with a stock 4X4, but just lower and within limits established by the 2WD shocks so it's safe for the front end angles at ball joints, etc.

The 4X4 front shocks have a solid steel "stalk" several inches long at the bottum. The shock body does not go all the way to the lower eye on the 4X4 front shocks on 04-08 trucks. I jacked her up, set my 6 ton jack stands under the frame, removed the wheels and undid the sway bar links and upper ball joints and had small floor jacks under LCA. The lower shock bolt is "tight" @ 351 ft lbs.

Anyway, got the shocks off with springs the regular way. Then I marked a straight scribe up front side of each, marked the lower eye and body with two punches or a single punnch mark so my scribes would be correct. Then I marked a line at the point where that stalk steps down from 15/16 to 13/16" diameter. I assembled a jig before I cut the shock eye off, mocking up against the uncut shock body / eye.

I marked a second point exactly 1-1/4" below that which is pretty close to the bottum where the stalk is welded to the eyes. I used a piece of 1-1/4" OD steel pipe from my scrap drawer that made a good gage, I lined it up so I could see one saw mark, and made the second. 2 saw marks easily account for another 1/16" so I removed 1-5/16"



I made square cuts. 1-5/16" is 1.3125" hence my figures. Also, any change at the shock body is 75% of the change out at the ball joint. This is because the shock doesn't mount at the ball joint, it further in towards the inner pivot at the bushings.

The 1.31 inch that I removed devided by 0.75 is nearer 1.75 inch drop at the ball joint. The inverse of 0.75 is 1.00 / 0.75=1.33 and 1.31X1.33=1.7423 ... near 1.75" and that's just about what I find in post lowering measureing (looks like 1-3/4 to 1-7/8"?).

I beveled my cut ends, and then used the jig I had previosly rigged up with channel locks and scraps to position the eyes with marks aligned. I used 3/32" E7014 rod at 120 amps. I kept a 5 gallon bucket of water near me. I would make a short duration weld, and then douse the shock in the water eye end first .... I did NOT want to heat the shock body itself.

Short duratiion welds alternating from one to the next, brush and cleaning the weld and inspecting and doing it again .... alternating while one was cooling. The shock body themselves never gor hot, never even warm. I have them welded on better than original now, as original is only welded on two sides at eye. I also welded the lower end to the eye on the other sides not originally welded so now the stalks are welded 360 degrees to the eyes. I never got the shock itself "hot" at all.

I kept the eye square to the shock in my initial mock up, I did the welds with the eye end up about 45 degrees, the spring end down. Once tacked and cooled with first two welds I stopped using the jig, just position shock eye end up resting on bench in partially open vise jaws, weld clamp to stalk. I wasted little time between welding and cooling.

Reinstall the shock / spring units, torque all to spec.



Did I say "DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE ABOUT IT !" ?

Shocks are under high pressure and heat increases pressure and you do not want to overheat shock internals. Also, do not strike an arc near / on the shock body itself. I would never have done this with regular style shocks that are gas pressurized where shock body is welded to the eye itself as they are just too thin and any welding would instantly heat the internals. I only did it this time after much study and knowing the several inches of large solid steel would allow me to do so safely if great care was taken. The reason for all my "cautioning" is I don't want someone to cut and weld and either destroy a shock, have a un-planned "pyrotechnic event", or maybe a defective weld snap on them in use.

And it's not that I'm a tight wad, I just like how my truck rides and I figure the stock FX4 Premium Off Road shocks on it have some good life yet seeing as her miles are mostly "road" miles and only 37K of them at that. Pardon the shiney black paint on the lowers, all I had was that and some grey primer. Needed something after welding and all that brushing between. Next year, I may put a set of 2WD Bilstein HDs on it.

In measuring at top of front fenders I see I got right at 1-3/4 ".... maybe 1-7/8" up front(corrected).




The REAR:
The rear was simple, simply remove the rear blocks which on my 2007 FX4, are 2" tall. I jacked her up, plaxced my two 6 ton stands under the leaf spring at fromt side of axle, then I loosened the nuts for the U bolts a little on both sides, then I placed a jack under the axle on one side, took weight on jack, removed the too long Ubolts, eased the axle down and pulled the block, jacked the axle back, and reinstalled my new shorter 2WD U Bolts. (Stengel Bros.U-Bolt Kits - Square Bend Ubolts U-bolt kits that include two square bend Ubolts, four deep nuts and four hard washers. Click Ubolt kit part number to find out pricing, shipping costs, and to order online. I used # 361-434 http://stengelbros.com/U-boltKits.htm __ Square Bend 9/16 x 3.0625 inside x 8.375 long Grade 5 (2 U-bolts per kit with nuts and washers 9/16-18 X 3-1/16 X 8-3/8 ). Ford OEM Reference: D7TZ5455A or E7TZ5455A also: ( 361-435 9/16-18 X 3-1/16 X 9-3/8 is longer 4x4 U-bolts 5D3TZ5455A ) )

With both sides loosened some, no problem at all getting pins to line up. Then I did the other side, then I snugged the 8 ubolt nuts. I then got a small gage and adjusted it to the longest one, and tightened until all 4 had same amount of thread showing. Did this for all 8 .... I then reset my gage and snugged up, I tighten until all 8 again were equal in exposed threads.

Then with all 8 good and snug and equal, I broke out torque wrench againsing short pulls at each nut, gradually tightened them all in equal steps criss crossing until the wrech clicked at 40 FtLbs, then I set it for 60 and did this again and again at about the same time, all 8 started clicking. I did the final torquing at 100 ft lbs. I figured being 9/16" diameter U bolts, they'ld want more but I looked at the book, it said 98 ft lbs.

Later I added 8 more 9/16-18 nuts as lock nuts.

So now, she's 2" closer to earth in the rear.



Sunday we took a drive and I swear, something about what I did seems to suit the truck's steering 'cause she steers better now .... and she was good before I did this. I'll take it next week or so for a quick alignment check.

Monday I retorqued the U-bolts. I did not back them off, I just set the wrench and pulled each until it clicked. Didn't take much at all. I don't believe they backed off, I think the spring leaves and all settled in that drive.

Older pic below when totally stock. Ain't but a couple inches, but I like the look of the tires up in the fenders more.



Again, I am not recommending anyone to do what I did with the front shocks.

I appoligize, I got so wrapped up in what I was doing, concentrating so, I plumb forgot to take any pics as I worked until afterwards and as I was putting my sockets, wrenches, etc up and I saw my camera hanging where I had hung it just so it would be handy .... "Oooops!"

Here's a picture with a yellow line added at the crease in the side, those are stock 20" wheels.

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http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...my-07-4x4.html
Thanks all!

I think she'll still clear ... or at least take the top off of ... any snows I'm likely to take her out in with Pirelli Scorpion ATRs on! While I really like these tires (so well, I bought a set of new takeoffs from another member here last year to have on hand), I'll point out there are better "snow tires" out there. These wear well, so well that I think the rubber a bit hard for best snow traction.

As a follow up ... I did an alignment on the front end since posting last and after just one short evening drive.

Camber was way off after the lowering, way too much tilt in at top (about 1/2" measured from bottom to top of 20" wheel's lip).
Toe was out a lot as well ... (a good 5/8" total).
Caster was "OK" but I added a hair when correcting the camber.

Camber and Toe affect tie wear a lot... but Caster not so much (it mostly affects direction stability and willingness to return to straight).

The truck drives just super well now!

I think it must have been out before lowering as it used to "dart" around just a little before I lowered it like I had to pay more attention to lane position and less to mirrors, etc.
No "darting" or "wander" now, she stays much straighter .... so either I have better toe figures now or that extra Caster helped a ton.

It was easy to see when I got under there that it had never been aligned since it was built as the LCA bolts had never been moved ... so likely it was out a little before my lowering and subsequent alignment. She only has 37,000 and change on her odometer. (I know that negative Camber increased as a result of lowering as I had measured it at stock height just prior, but I didn't bother checking the Toe or Caster prior to lowering as I knew I'd be checking afterwards and changing Toe anyway. Out of curiosity, I wish I had now.)

I did mark witness lines on both sides of each adjustment point before touching them with a wrench. While adjusting Toe I also corrected that ever so slight and just barely noticeable slightly off center steering wheel position as well.

I also loosened and re-torqued UCA inner bolts (110 ft lbs) as well as LCA inners (250 ft lbs) and lower shock bolts at LCAs (351 ft lbs spec, I'm close! .... ugh!) with the front at the new lower ride height to unwind the bushings.

I used ramps for adjusting and tightening.
I drove it off of the ramps and pulled forwards onto my level surface to check settings each time until I had her right. I performed checks and rechecked each setting in at least two different ways to make sure I had it right, I checked Toe three ways probably several times each.

A bit "****" sounding I know, but I'm retired ...
... it's a good time to aquire new skills I think!

Alignment is all about angles and angles are easily determined using patience and good levels and precise measurements and cross checking with some calculations doesn't hurt. The hard work is swinging wrenches under a truck on ramps when figures like 258 and 351 ft lbs are called for, not much room for swinging a long torque wrench.

I also looked at the Moog # K100025 or Specialty Products # 86250 camber bolt nuts / blocks at $40 a pair or $80 total yesterday, but by then I was done. They'll wait for now.

After rolling out from under the truck one time and catching the lower side of the tag cover and busting it, I also raised my custom made tag mount and tag a little and install a new cover.
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I'm just going to install some drop shackles and extended shock mounts.
If you're just dropping two inches, the removal of the blocks is easiest I think and it doesn't change the pinion angle where as drop shackles pivot the rear of the spring up tilting the pinion down .... unless you're changing the front hangers too.

I have carefully measured my shocks at rear, to bottom the shock I'm gonna have to bottom the axle on the snubbers. I have thought about extenders but I don't think they are really needed unless you're hitting the frame snubbers.

The 2Wd and 4Wd shocks are the same mounting, the lengths and travel differ some, with the 4WD shocks being 1" longer bottomed out and 2.25" longer extended. The specs were obtained from Monroe.

Rear Shock Lengths ...........2WD shocks ............... 4WD shocks
Compressed Length ............... 15.500" ....................... 16.500"
Extended Length ................... 25.000"........................ 27.250"
Travel Length ........................ 9.500" ........................ 10.750"

Just offering FWIW .....