Did some Ball Joints, new sway bar end links, and noted the condition of Idler arm. Not enough for a full write up, but hopefully someone will find these pictures helpful

Lower ball joint, taking snap ring off


Ball joint press, removing ball joint (after removing zerk fitting)


Old one all the way out


Installing new one


Moog sway bar endlink kit


How to install them correctly



And the condition of the Idler arm, check out the very last second or two

http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=MOV01562.mp4

There should be no detectable freeplay in the idler arm, sorry for the crappy video :o

 

nice. i need to do my steering stuff. tie rods and idler arm also. think thats what causes my slight shimmy that comes and goes at highway speed??

 

Awesome Pat, comes at a great time. Nice to have simple clear pics to help out. I have to change my lower ball joints since they creak now but only when I'm driving on the streets, Hwy no creak, parking/backing up no creak.

Jake -- your shimmy may be the outer tie rods. I had a pretty bad shake on the hwy, replaced the outers and shake is gone.

 

thanks for confirming that for me. i know theyre shot cuz the boots are all torn up and arent holding grease well anymore just havent had the funds to replace them yet

 

they are pretty cheap to do, shop online for them Jake

 

Patman...great write up! Just about to tackle upper arms, lower ball joints and outer tie rods (all Moog). When you removed the steering knuckle, it looks like you had a jack under he lower arm. Did you have your spring compressed (from the jack) before you started to remove\take apart the steering knuckle assembly? Or was it extended all the way out?

I have a thread asking this question, but then saw your thread. Any help would be GREAT!

 

I break loose both ball joints from the spindle, then put pressure on the lower arm, carefully remove the spindle (heavy) and set it out of the way, notice i didnt take the brake line or the tie rod loose, would be easier to take the tie rod loose, but i was on a time crunch to finish. Then if you are going to be replacing the springs (as i did) then just lower the jack down and slide the spring out. if not then just leave the jack on the control arm, run the lower ball joint out, and back in, and put it back together....

remember if you arent doing springs to make a mark of where the upper control arm camber washer is facing, and return the marks when you put the new arm in, to maintain your alignment, or close to your original alignment

 

Thank you, Patman......cold feet yesterday on this, but I think I can give it another go!

 

do you know the prybar + hammer trick on the Ball joints?

 

nice! this would have given me a lot more confidence when i did mine

 

I opted to rent a pickle fork from Kragen...but, I have also seen the hammer on the knuckle tip where the ball joint meets there. A few pounds (or many pounds) they looks to loosen up! (I hope)

 

Im interested?

 

use a pry bar, and push down or up on the control arm, then smack the spindle where the BJ goes through it. The pry bar gives it motivation, and the hammer shocks the tapered fitting loose.