This was after I did the lightning leafs. I brought it back up an inch in the back last week just to even out the wheel well gap.

 

So what is the difference between taking out the block and installing 2" drop shackles on the '09-'11 4x4s?
If you do both will you get 4" drop?
Anyone have any pics of the "lower shock mount" that is different on the 2wd and 4wds? Do you just need to buy the mount or the whole 2wd assembly?

 

Here where I started...



Here is where I'm at now. Belltech 3" 2wd sprigs in the rear and Belltech torsion keys in the front. I'm happier then I was but its still no enough for. I really want to bag it, not so much to lay frame but set it down on the bumper and rocker panels.

 

Anyone?

 

Yes, removing a block that's 2" high (some are shorter) will drop it 2 inches, using the 2" drop shackles will lower it two more inches. Removing the blocks requires shorter "square U bolts" that are 9/16" dia X 3-1/16 wide X 8-3/8" long like the Ford 2WD Ubolts or the Stengel Bros. # 361-434 U (http://stengelbros.com/U-boltKits.htm) bolts as you will run out of threads with the longer 4 X 4 Ubolts that are on it now.

Removing the blocks also means you probably should change to shorter 2WD rear shocks as the blocks also have a tab over the axle that contacts the bumpstops to limit travel. With these tabs gone, tyhe axle makes contact like in a 2WD, but the 4WD shocks are longer and likely will bottom out before the axle hits the bumstop. This will transmit a load to the shock mounts which they are not intended to absorb and I have seen a truck's frame develope stress cracks there.

The shackles do not have the same concern as they alone do not change what hits the bumpstops, they just bring the contact sooner. If the shackles are used with blocks, the tabs on the blocks hit and the 4 X 4 shocks are OK. If the blocks are removed, you need to use 2 WD shiocks, ther shackles will just remove 2" of travel above the axle or tabs of the blocks.

On 2004-08 there is no difference in lower shock mounts, Ford specs two different shock lengths for 2WD versus 4WD. I believe 2009 is likely same, maybe someone else will chime in?

In front, the springs are the same, the 2WD has less shock body below the lower spring seat and the bolt through the LCA so that's how the front is lower on a 2WD than a 4WD. There are shocks that have a choice of heights by changing the spring seat height.

 

tbear853, thank you, that makes sense. Thank you for your time and expertise!

 

I washed my truck tonight and thought I'd snap a few pictures for you guys. I apologize for the crappy quality, but they're from my BlackBerry.

Enjoy...

 

looks great!

 

Looks awesome!

 

Why not just remove the 2" lift block?

 

I got her done yesterday.

The FRONT:

First, let me say .... do not try this unless you really are sure what your're doing!

Here are the specs for 2WD shocks versus 4WD shocks as to lengths.

....................2WD shock compd to .... 4X4 shock ....... 4X4 shock minus 1.31" (1-5/16")
Body Length ..............15.200"............... 16.875"
Compressed Length .... 15.700" .............. 17.330" ........... 16.020"
Extended Length ........ 20.950" .............. 21.940" ........... 20.630"
Travel Length ............ 5.250" ................ 4.610"

Note that the third column representing modified 4X4 struts / shocks / whatever compressed length is longer than 2WD shocks by a hair and that the extended length is just a hair shorter which means the total range of travel is still 4.610" as with a stock 4X4, but just lower and within limits established by the 2WD shocks so it's safe for the front end angles at ball joints, etc.

The 4X4 front shocks have a solid steel "stalk" several inches long at the bottum. The shock body does not go all the way to the lower eye on the 4X4 front shocks on 04-08 trucks. I jacked her up, set my 6 ton jack stands under the frame, removed the wheels and undid the sway bar links and upper ball joints and had small floor jacks under LCA. The lower shock bolt is "tight" @ 351 ft lbs.

Anyway, got the shocks off with springs the regular way. Then I marked a straight scribe up front side of each, marked the lower eye and body with two punches or a single punnch mark so my scribes would be correct. Then I marked a line at the point where that stalk steps down from 15/16 to 13/16" diameter. I assembled a jig before I cut the shock eye off, mocking up against the uncut shock body / eye.

I marked a second point exactly 1-1/4" below that which is pretty close to the bottum where the stalk is welded to the eyes. I used a piece of 1-1/4" OD steel pipe from my scrap drawer that made a good gage, I lined it up so I could see one saw mark, and made the second. 2 saw marks easily account for another 1/16" so I removed 1-5/16"



I made square cuts. 1-5/16" is 1.3125" hence my figures. Also, any change at the shock body is 75% of the change out at the ball joint. This is because the shock doesn't mount at the ball joint, it further in towards the inner pivot at the bushings.

The 1.3125 inch that I removed devided by 0.75 is nearer 1.75 inch drop at the ball joint. The inverse of 0.75 is 1.00 / 0.75=1.333 and 1.3125X1.333=1.7499 ... near 1.75" and that's just about what I find in post lowering measureing (looks like 1-3/4 to 1-7/8"?).

I beveled my cut ends, and then used the jig I had previosly rigged up with channel locks and scraps to position the eyes with marks aligned. I used 3/32" E7014 rod at 120 amps. I kept a 5 gallon bucket of water near me. I would make a short duration weld, and then douse the shock in the water eye end first .... I did NOT want to heat the shock body itself.

Short duratiion welds alternating from one to the next, brush and cleaning the weld and inspecting and doing it again .... alternating while one was cooling. The shock body themselves never gor hot, never even warm. I have them welded on better than original now, as original is only welded on two sides at eye.

I kept the eye square to the shock in my initial mock up, I did the welds with the eye end up about 45 degrees, the spring end down. Once tacked and cooled with first two welds I stopped using the jig, just position shock eye end up resting on bench in partially open vise jaws, weld clamp to stalk. I wasted little time between welding and cooling.

Reinstall the shock / spring units, torque all to spec.




In measuring at top of front fenders I see I got right at 1-3/4 ".... maybe 1-7/8" up front (corrected).



The REAR:
The rear was simple, simply remove the rear blocks which on my 2007 FX4, are 2" tall. I jacked her up, plaxced my two 6 ton stands under the leaf spring at fromt side of axle, then I loosened the nuts for the U bolts a little on both sides, then I placed a jack under the axle on one side, took weight on jack, removed the too long Ubolts, eased the axle down and pulled the block, jacked the axle back, and reinstalled my new shorter 2WD U Bolts.

With both sides loosened some, no problem at all getting pins to line up. Then I did the other side, then I snugged the 8 ubolt nuts. I then got a small gage and adjusted it to the longest one, and tightened until all 4 had same amount of thread showing. Did this for all 8 .... I then reset my gage and snugged up, I tighten until all 8 again were equal in exposed threads.

Then with all 8 good and snug and equal, I broke out torque wrench againsing short pulls at each nut, gradually tightened them all in equal steps criss crossing until the wrech clicked at 40 FtLbs, then I set it for 60 and did this again and again at about the same time, all 8 started clicking. I did the final torquing at 100 ft lbs. I figured being 9/16" diameter U bolts, they'ld want more but I looked at the book, it said 98 ft lbs.

Later I added 8 more 9/16-18 nuts as lock nuts.

So now, she's 2" closer to earth in the rear.



Monday I retorqued the U-bolts. I did not back them off, I just set the wrench and pulled each until it clicked. Didn't take much at all. I don't believe they backed off, I think the spring leaves and all settled in that drive.

Older pic below when totally stock. Ain't but a couple inches, but I like the look of the tires up in the fenders more.



Again, I am not recommending anyone to do what I did with the front shocks.

I appoligize, I got so wrapped up in what I was doing, concentrating so, I plumb forgot to take any pics as I worked until afterwards and as I was putting my sockets, wrenches, etc up and I saw my camera hanging where I had hung it just so it would be handy .... "Oooops!"

Here's a picture with a yellow line added at the crease in the side, those are stock 20" wheels.





I did an allignment a few days later, found that I had excessive negative camber as I knew, the tires were leaning in noticeably at the top. I added a touch of caster (between 5.5 and 6 degrees now) as I set my camber so the top of the 20" wheel leaned in exactly 1/8" from verticle (-0.358 deg) and then I found my toe was toed out (at least partly if not totally due to me correcting the camber) and now it's set at near about 5/32" toed in in 30" (near +0.298 degrees) (and after I tried 0.179 degrees). She really seems to like this setup and I know she will be easy on tires.

 

are you a machinist by trade?

 

Looks Great! I think he's a cop

 

No sir, never by trade.

I have "dabbled" in the art.

Thank you Sir!

Was ..... now a State Police Master Trooper retired 2010 with 31 plus years.

(I had started to reply, went for a cup, came back and saw I hadn't finished so I hit post, and then saw you had already guessed / recalled .... hence the edit ?)

 

Ah I gotcha, well you have good taste