She's got a shimmy
#1
She's got a shimmy
99 F150 2WD, 4.6L, 202K.
On 12/26/08, trusty chariot got a new set of Yoko Geos for going to work up and down and new front brakes, because we needed them.
All was well.
At some point last week, I notice considerable shimmy when braking, through the pedal, not the steering wheel.
What gives? Ride is fine, no play, no vibration
Fellows at NTB told me truck needs upper and lower ball joints replaced, to the tune of $1K. *gasp*
Have no reliable source here in N. Dallas, don't want to get bent over by the local shop, need group advice/ideas.
Y'all are going to gasp when I admit that we're running original shocks/struts/suspension. Did I mention this truck rocks??
Okay...so, how do I narrow down what it might be? How do I not get reamed? How...how....how..!?
I mean, is this suddenly how bad ball joints manifest?
Or was it just a pi$$ poor brake job in Frisco?
Thanks in advance,
Jen and her trusty much loved truck
On 12/26/08, trusty chariot got a new set of Yoko Geos for going to work up and down and new front brakes, because we needed them.
All was well.
At some point last week, I notice considerable shimmy when braking, through the pedal, not the steering wheel.
What gives? Ride is fine, no play, no vibration
Fellows at NTB told me truck needs upper and lower ball joints replaced, to the tune of $1K. *gasp*
Have no reliable source here in N. Dallas, don't want to get bent over by the local shop, need group advice/ideas.
Y'all are going to gasp when I admit that we're running original shocks/struts/suspension. Did I mention this truck rocks??
Okay...so, how do I narrow down what it might be? How do I not get reamed? How...how....how..!?
I mean, is this suddenly how bad ball joints manifest?
Or was it just a pi$$ poor brake job in Frisco?
Thanks in advance,
Jen and her trusty much loved truck
#2
Originally Posted by Jennifer_in_DFW
99 F150 2WD, 4.6L, 202K.
On 12/26/08, trusty chariot got a new set of Yoko Geos for going to work up and down and new front brakes, because we needed them.
All was well.
At some point last week, I notice considerable shimmy when braking, through the pedal, not the steering wheel.
What gives? Ride is fine, no play, no vibration
Fellows at NTB told me truck needs upper and lower ball joints replaced, to the tune of $1K. *gasp*
Have no reliable source here in N. Dallas, don't want to get bent over by the local shop, need group advice/ideas.
Y'all are going to gasp when I admit that we're running original shocks/struts/suspension. Did I mention this truck rocks??
Okay...so, how do I narrow down what it might be? How do I not get reamed? How...how....how..!?
I mean, is this suddenly how bad ball joints manifest?
Or was it just a pi$$ poor brake job in Frisco?
Thanks in advance,
Jen and her trusty much loved truck
On 12/26/08, trusty chariot got a new set of Yoko Geos for going to work up and down and new front brakes, because we needed them.
All was well.
At some point last week, I notice considerable shimmy when braking, through the pedal, not the steering wheel.
What gives? Ride is fine, no play, no vibration
Fellows at NTB told me truck needs upper and lower ball joints replaced, to the tune of $1K. *gasp*
Have no reliable source here in N. Dallas, don't want to get bent over by the local shop, need group advice/ideas.
Y'all are going to gasp when I admit that we're running original shocks/struts/suspension. Did I mention this truck rocks??
Okay...so, how do I narrow down what it might be? How do I not get reamed? How...how....how..!?
I mean, is this suddenly how bad ball joints manifest?
Or was it just a pi$$ poor brake job in Frisco?
Thanks in advance,
Jen and her trusty much loved truck
i have had the same problem on my newer body style 05'. i would say check your front rotors to see if the need to be re-surfaced...
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The $1000 estimate seems high. I just one from a local shop in town for my 1998 F150 4x4, 5.4,8'bed, reg. Cab, Auto. It was around $670 materials, labor and alingment and labor for the upper and lower balljoints on both sides and additional hardware to offer more alingment adjustment.
You may want to get another estimate.
Now $1000 for the balljoints, tie rod ends, and maybe some other suspension parts would be a good deal.