OK, who's got the best idea for me on how I might remove my stock hangers? What are my options with limited tools available?
I've already installed 2" front coils and rear shackles.
Thanks-

Riding-Too-High
in Sacramento
JT

 

Grinder...
I tried a die grinder but the grinder worked the best..

http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/f150/Dropkit.htm

hth's
ks

 

Well if you don't have a grinder try a drill and drill them out. Or if you know someone with a plasma cutter that would work great. Hammer and chisel should work as well.

I see you live in Sacramento we need to get some of us Northern Calif guys together and have our own F150 gathering like they do back east. Maybe Roger Lemere could set that up if he is still on the boards.

Richard D.

While your here check out my gallery:
https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=2479

 

Yup, I'm here in Northern Cali, I live very close to Aftermarket Wholesale. You see the pics on there of a local's truck? Anyway, I'm in if someone else will organize it!

Grinder? So grind them down on the outside and then tap them out? A drill? Just an ordinary drill, starting with small bits and working up? Hammer and chisel? Small sledge and BIG chisel?
OK...I'll figure it out I guess!

Any more suggestions are welcome.

Also, Sacramento Vintage Ford should be starting their monthly cruise night soon, maybe meet there...or in downtown Auburn when that cruise night begins?

Thanks!

 

As you know, four huge rivets from hell!, hold each hanger in place on the frame. Grinding the rivet heads down to get the hangers off is easy compared to removing the rivets from the frame. The rivets must be removed to allow you to use the rivet holes as bolt holes for the new lowered hangers. .

.....I have removed a total of 16 of those little bastards! (two trucks)

With very limited tools, I figured out this to be the best way:

1. after using a hand held angle grinder (can get a cheap one for around 20 bucks) with a grinding disk (will need about 3 grinding disks) and grinding the rivet head (4 on each side) to remove the hanger from the rivets (I did not care to attempt to save the stock hanger), then

2. You grind the rivet flush with the frame. With the rivet extremely hot from grinding it flush, you immediately hit the rivet with a short centerpunch (I used a socket that was a little smaller in diameter than the rivet with a pair of visegrips holding the socket) over the rivet and you hit the socket with the shortest handled, heaviest headed sledghammer you can find. After hitting the rivet 4 to 10 times, the rivet should pop out on the other side.

Key Points:

Wear some kind of eye wear protection!!!!!!!!!!!

This method only works IF you hit the rivet while it is extremely hot from grinding on it. IF you wait more than 10 seconds or so, before you begin hitting it, grind on the rivet some more to make it hot before hitting it.

You do not have much room between the frame and the bed inner wall, therefore you should use a very short center punch such as a socket for a rachet and you want a short handled sledghammer for maximum leverage, momentum and striking force.

my notes assume you have already removed the tire and the leafspring from the hanger and have used multiple jackstands under the frame and axle and other locations to secure the truck, since you will be working UNDER IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I can also say, that I will never remove the rivets again. Next time, I will get lowered leaf springs and or shackles only.


Note: I am no expert, nor do I claim to be, always take the proper safety precautions and seek expert advice before attempting any of this

 

OK, that's sort of what I imagined the process to look / feel like, a complete pain in the rear. Maybe I will simply go with the Belltech lowered leafs, instead of those Hotchkis ones that were way too stiff.

I was thinking about going this route in order to keep the stock springs and not lose any payload capacity, but maybe it is really not worth the trouble. If I go with the the lowered 4" leafs and just keep my stock leafs and hangers around, should I want/need them for towing... that might save me some BLOOD, SWEAT and TEARS.

Thanks!!!

 

......just wanted you to be aware of some key points. You can do it, but need to be safe and have ample time for proceedure, when doing so.

........as far as load capacity, if you go with lowered leafsprings, and want to keep or increase load capacity, use a "add-a-leaf" spring kit from JCWhitney or Roush or Hotckis. As well as adding additional clamps to the leaf springs increases load rating some. Of course, increasing load capacity will raise you up some.

Good Luck!

 

Hey Iron Horse! I just read your bit of info and was wondering why you wouldn't do the hangers again but rather the leafs? Where would you get the leafs?

 

It would be a much simpler, easier, and faster install of lowered leafsprings than messing with the hangers.

To find different brands and prices of lowered leaf springs, pick up a copy of Truck'in or Sporttruck mag. or the easiest way is to go to this site's online store and click on "Contact Us" and send a email requesting some. It also helps support the ongoing cost of this site.

 

Roush springs decrease your payload by about half. If you want to change springs and keep your stock payload you need to use Hotchkis leafs.

 

You need to use a torch on the rivets or you will be there all day and night if you use a hammer and chisel.You can rent a torch from a rental yard. P.S DON'T SMASH YOUR FINGERS WITH THE HAMMER.

 

Just an FYI...

Belltech, AIM and Hotchkis have lowered leafs available, along with Roush I guess, but I've not found any price or availability for those anywhere yet.

Jeff in Sac

 

I did mine with a grinder .

 

Nemo...

What exactly are you showing us here? It is not computing. Is this a lift? I do see the replaced hanger...but this is toward the rear, right? This is not the front mount. Was it difficult to slam out the old rivets? What was your trick to get it done. Thanks for the pic.

Jeffrey

 

These are reverse rear hangers .They gave me about 3'' of lift.I removed old ones with a 4'' grinder , it was not to bad although I would suggest wearing gloves,sleeves and a face sheild .