Mr. Jason, sorry for the inconvenience and intrusion into your post, but I need to ask you a question: you say that you are installing a gt exchanger, where applicable, 12 psi of boost, should have a significant gain in power, but in my case, with 8 psi, and the temperature problem, which do you think is more beneficial for me to go to 10-12 psi with the stock engine, 60 injectors, dual fuel pump, maf, etc, and win 30 RWHP or install these dual exchanger? , It seems incredible 30 RWHP winning just because of install, not sure the way to go. Thank you for your help.

 

About time you got her out. Come on!

 

Hey Leonardo, you are not intruding. You always have interesting questions. Before I would recommend any change regarding your heat exchanger I would want to know what your IAT's are? Also have you performed the IAT sensor relocation or does it still read from your MAF?

 

Thanks for your attention , Mr. Jason , if I moving the IAT sensor . Not what the temperature of my IAT because I have not measured . Coincidentally yesterday I was reading some information on the internet and I saw an interesting article where he mentioned TIMSKELTON some interesting numbers profits by lowering the temperature of the inlet air . Although I'm blind at this point , since I do not read these temperatures , I feel the difference in response in the evening or in the morning , so if there should be a great benefit to the intercoolers . Now , also I have a greater understanding in the fact that I will not make more HP with these exchangers , it's just not going to miss these HP by high temperature IAT for the delay in the ignition, from there the benefit obtained. As we talked once , if I increased boost , but I have temperature problems , which is why I have analyzed and I think I'm convinced , that this modification is my next way to go. Perhaps while spending at 10 psi with 95mm MAF , that would give me about 20 RWHP more and benefit the exchanger, but I will define this point , that's where I require of you experience . Thank you.

 

Cracked my flex-plate! Went out and started my truck (07 F150 5.4) Tuesday. Walked back in the house while it was warming up. When I came back out I could hear a faint knocking sound. I began trying to track it and the noise led me to the oil pan. Naturally I freaked thinking this was a sound from the engine. I gently revved her to 1800rpms and the noise disappeared. As engine speed slowed the noise reappeared around 1300rpm and was considerably louder at idle. I called RobertP and ask him about it. He runs a repair shop so he can identify stupid noises like this. He suspected the flywheel. Had me place the truck in gear and the sound went away. Put her in neutral and the sound reappeared. Reverse no noise. He confirmed it was a cracked flex plate and sent me a link to a better built flex plate. It's made by PRW. Thanks again RobertP. Here's the link. http://m.ebay.com/itm/161060375315?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
Not sure why this happened. Fatigue? Went racing weekend before and posted my best times ever. The stock flex plate seems thin to me. I recall thinking this when I swapped my trans out some time ago. Robert mentioned this happening to stock trucks as well.

Got wonder though, is the power level I'm at the breaking point for the stock piece? I don't know. But when this is fixed I plan to race again and either up the boost or up the timing. Mike Troyer wants to see me crossing the traps at 17 degrees of timing up two degrees from what she does now. If it's safe I will also have my 3.125 pulley on hand to crank up the boost. Maybe hit really low 12's.

 

Really low 12s my ***. 11.99s for sure

 

Lol. I hope you're right. New flex plate won't arrive until Tuesday so I'll be building my custom cold air intake system for you and 2 others this weekend.

 

Shoot now were all going to be running 12s. This forum really picked up with some modding lately.

 

Not to jack your post, but do you think in a supercharged application, a functional hood scoop would be effective?

Not just a Roush scoop that is just for looks, but maybe something like this I just found on Ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F150-Ram-Air-Funct-Dual-Scoop-Truck-Hood-2004-2008-No-Reserve-/221315394192?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2008%7CModel%3AF-150&hash=item33876cea90&vxp=mtr

 

I bet it would. Provided you could make a tight seal to your air box. You don't want to be sucking in the 140F temps under the hood.

I went a dkfferent route. Hood vent to help cooling. Underhood temps dropped 22 degrees. That helps the blower out quite a bit. And the intake box pulls cool air.
Heres a quote from thread on the box showing the results.

 

Jason! You really are a car geek!

 

I have a saleen hood and I can see the heat coming out of the vent. I never measured before and after iat though

 

Do you have more pics of that setup you have and where that intake hose goes to help with the fresh air? I have a roush setup and the air filter is already enclosed into a box with the air sucking in from the bottom


Would something like this be more benificial?

 

If you could make this type of forced air induction, I think it could be pretty bad ***! I wouldn't think it would be too hard to make something up to get a tight seal to allow the cold air to go right into the air box! The air would go pretty much right over the air box to begin with.

 

corey 4631 I understand that the roush air box like you have is better that the open air filter because it keeps the air cooler going into the engine.